Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

2-3 years after the 1962 Knavel B16 mod and I can report the "B16-Rick" Bigsby mod is going strong. I will clarify that there are no additional holes that need be drilled in the guitar, and I would have a difficult time drilling into a 62/3' original 360! This is a completely reversible addition to the guitar. Until Bigsby makes such a 'Rickenbacker specific' short Bigsby, you'll have to do the Bigsby cut and and have the aluminum weld done yourself. The nice thing is that because the Bigsby is short, there is adequate downward pressure on the bridge and there is no forward roller bar needed as in the B-5. That additional static roller bar of the B-5 is there to increase the string angle to the bridge because the Bigsby is too close to the bridge, but it also adds friction to the movement of the tremolo.

Note that the extra aluminum that you bring to the welder to make the mod comes from the forward portion of the B16 next to the tele bridge cutout. A simply hacksaw made all the cuts in minutes. You can also use the piece that is just in front of the left roller bar bearing.

Oh that is just lovely!

Pretty awesome!

Whoa yeah, that looks incredible.

It even looks period in some ways (and the guitar is a stunner, very nice).

Thank you.

It is a beautiful guitar....but belongs to my brother...not me!

It is interesting that the fanned out shape of the bigsby, mirrors the fanning of the body of the 360...in reverse and adds a look of balance. IMO

Update on this, I have just ordered a Towner V block. It's just a block of Al that pushes the Bigsby further back off the guitar, but I'm wondering if it might make a B3 usable with a Ric 330. I don't have a B3 yet to test it with - next paycheck. Looks a bit clunky but it's reversible.

http://townerusa.com/product/v-block/



Another option I'm considering is the Shade Mosrite-style vibrato. I contacted them and the strings are 0.5" off the guitar, lower than Bigsby's 0.7" so it would help the break angle issue.

Update on this, I have just ordered a Towner V block. It's just a block of Al that pushes the Bigsby further back off the guitar, but I'm wondering if it might make a B3 usable with a Ric 330. I don't have a B3 yet to test it with - next paycheck. Looks a bit clunky but it's reversible.

I'm trying this. I've ordered all the parts and will report back. You need to order a TOM bridge, too, but Winfield has one that fits on the Ric bridgeplate.

I've always thought that the B5 just didn't look right. The longer body of the B3 seems more harmonious to the total design... at least to my eyes.

gretschbigsby wrote: You need to order a TOM bridge, too, but Winfield has one that fits on the Ric bridgeplate.

Cool. But, honestly, I don't know why you'd need a TOM bridge -- please clue me in.

I must have visited the Winfield site a couple of dozen times, and I never saw the TOM bridges.... It seems as though you have to buy their baseplate, also, as they come as a set. (I think the bowtie baseplate looks good.)

Anyway, I'm really looking forward to your report when it's all finished. Thanks.

You need a TOM style bridge to attached the Towner String Tension bar, which gives you the break angle for a Bigsby 330. The other Towner stuff (hinge plate adapter and v block pushes the whole Bigsby back 1/2 or so, which likewise increased the break angle and fits the Bigsby hinge to the bottom rim of the body. Its all about increasing the break angle.

Here's a pic of why the TOM works

https://i0.wp.com/toneproshop.com/wp-co ... C740&ssl=1

I see! Thanks.

So, this works but it wasn't as drop in as was described... It is, however completely reversible with no irreversible mods to the guitar.

My guitar guy (who is very competent and reasonable) had to do quite a bit of work to make the after market parts fit.

First, the Winfield bridge plate didn't drop it-- he had to drill out the holes. Not sure if this was a Ric thing or Winfield thing, but it didn't just drop in.

Then he had to grind the bottom of the bridge to get the action right as the two thumbwheels (for the Towner String Tension bar) caused the action to be a little high with no room to adjust.
Then he had to dowel the end pin hole because the 2" end pin screw provided to get to the body through the Towner V block was smaller than the Ric end pin screw.
I bought all the stuff new, so the parts were about $300 and the labor was about $150. An accent vibrato from Winfield is $200 and you can put that on yourself. Bigsby is a far superior vibrato, in my opinion.
That being said, I'm pretty happy. I've always loved Bigsby's and think that the B3 looks far better than the B5 on a 330. And the seemingly improbably B3 on a Ric has been accomplished.

This guy did something similar: https://toneproshop.com/2019/01/05/rick ... ld-part-3/

Looks good Bob. Thanks for the step by step process including the photos. It reduces the number of surprises for the next member who goes on this journey. Do you have any comment on the changes to the tone or sustain, if any, with the addition of the Bigsby?

I don't hear any change in tone, per se. Maybe a touch more sustain, but that could be the tune a matic bridge as much as the Bigsby. Really enjoying it. I put a Bigsby on everything... My Rics were always elusive.