Oh, I'll order a 12 string conversion eventually, I'm sure.collin wrote:jingle_jangle wrote:I have a poster of that photo in my shop...it's inspirational as I complete my first 12-strring LS conversion for a customer in the UK...
Ah, very cool! I was hoping somebody else would want a 12 string Lightshow conversion sooner or later (I can't be the only guy who thinks it's a good combo!).
The 12 strings seem to make the lights react differently than on the six-strings. A bit more random, plus the natural playing style of a 12 string (plucking instead of hard chords), is great for picking out one specific color or another.
Different Light Show!!!
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- paologregorio
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Re: Different Light Show!!!
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Re: Different Light Show!!!
RM's vocal is OK, but the recording is definitely missing the second harmony part which completes the vocal "package". Also, I may be in the minority, but I think that the guitar solo in 8MH - especially in the original recording - is a little rough, to say the least. The Lightshow looks awesome, and the twinkle in RM's eye at the beginning of the song is priceless.
- 8mileshigh
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Re: Different Light Show!!!
I wonder if you could replace the LED's with regular bulbs?paologregorio wrote:Oh, I'll order a 12 string conversion eventually, I'm sure.
- jingle_jangle
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Re: Different Light Show!!!
Sure, if you replace all the circuitry with original boards...
Re: Different Light Show!!!
Graham you could maybe send Paul a pair of yer breeks
Re: Different Light Show!!!
.....and add 1/2" to the entire depth of the guitar body, right?jingle_jangle wrote:Sure, if you replace all the circuitry with original boards...
- jingle_jangle
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Re: Different Light Show!!!
That depends upon the bulbs used, Collin. If we were building a hypothetical replica, then yes.
Adding 1/2" to the depth of a 330 body would be a nightmare for anyone without a really well-equipped shop.
I'd strip the body of hardware and paint, skim-cut the back of the body .060" (1/16" or 1.5mm) to remove the material down to the edge radius depth, glue a rough-cut piece of maple onto the back about .440" (7/16" or 11mm) thick, pin-route this piece to the inside contour of the LS body, and then glue on another rough-cut .125" (1/8" or 3mm) piece of maple to cap off the back. Then it's back to the router to shape the added maple bits to the proper outside contour.
Here you're limited to Jetglo or very dark Burgundyglo (like most original LSs were), in order to hide the two glue seams running around the circumference of the body.
Of course, then there's the issue of getting rid of the ramp the tailpiece sits on and squaring up that part of the body--not an easy task, as the original LSs were hollowed out under the tailpiece area to allow room for the large heat sink for the three bulb driver SCRs.
Too much work and adaptation for what would basically be a kluged mess...then there's the circuit boards to be built with obsolete technology... makes the $10K+ originals seem like a bargain.
Adding 1/2" to the depth of a 330 body would be a nightmare for anyone without a really well-equipped shop.
I'd strip the body of hardware and paint, skim-cut the back of the body .060" (1/16" or 1.5mm) to remove the material down to the edge radius depth, glue a rough-cut piece of maple onto the back about .440" (7/16" or 11mm) thick, pin-route this piece to the inside contour of the LS body, and then glue on another rough-cut .125" (1/8" or 3mm) piece of maple to cap off the back. Then it's back to the router to shape the added maple bits to the proper outside contour.
Here you're limited to Jetglo or very dark Burgundyglo (like most original LSs were), in order to hide the two glue seams running around the circumference of the body.
Of course, then there's the issue of getting rid of the ramp the tailpiece sits on and squaring up that part of the body--not an easy task, as the original LSs were hollowed out under the tailpiece area to allow room for the large heat sink for the three bulb driver SCRs.
Too much work and adaptation for what would basically be a kluged mess...then there's the circuit boards to be built with obsolete technology... makes the $10K+ originals seem like a bargain.
- FretlessOnly
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Re: Different Light Show!!!
I realize that this thread is about the Lightshow axe and not the music, but since you've brought it up: I'd be inclined to agree. McGuinn has stated that the opening solo on 8MH was an attempt to represent Coltrane's "sheets of sound" period (generally late 1950s-early 60s). Well, he sure set his sights high, but IMO, he fell very far short. Still; I can't play it, so there.stringsncords wrote:RM's vocal is OK, but the recording is definitely missing the second harmony part which completes the vocal "package". Also, I may be in the minority, but I think that the guitar solo in 8MH - especially in the original recording - is a little rough, to say the least. The Lightshow looks awesome, and the twinkle in RM's eye at the beginning of the song is priceless.
Can we have everything louder than everything else?
Re: Different Light Show!!!
Yeah...sounds like it'd be easier to salvage the neck and parts, and make a new body from scratch (which is what you'd mostly be doing anyways....).jingle_jangle wrote:That depends upon the bulbs used, Collin. If we were building a hypothetical replica, then yes.
Adding 1/2" to the depth of a 330 body would be a nightmare for anyone without a really well-equipped shop.
I'd strip the body of hardware and paint, skim-cut the back of the body .060" (1/16" or 1.5mm) to remove the material down to the edge radius depth, glue a rough-cut piece of maple onto the back about .440" (7/16" or 11mm) thick, pin-route this piece to the inside contour of the LS body, and then glue on another rough-cut .125" (1/8" or 3mm) piece of maple to cap off the back. Then it's back to the router to shape the added maple bits to the proper outside contour.
Here you're limited to Jetglo or very dark Burgundyglo (like most original LSs were), in order to hide the two glue seams running around the circumference of the body.
Of course, then there's the issue of getting rid of the ramp the tailpiece sits on and squaring up that part of the body--not an easy task, as the original LSs were hollowed out under the tailpiece area to allow room for the large heat sink for the three bulb driver SCRs.
Too much work and adaptation for what would basically be a kluged mess...then there's the circuit boards to be built with obsolete technology... makes the $10K+ originals seem like a bargain.
I also agree that with all the work and money building up the circuits and the body etc......just buy an original. The prices are going down on them for sure.
- scoobster28
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Re: Different Light Show!!!
That Lightshow of McGuinn's is the biggest reason I want a lightshow. Mine will not be a 12 string but it will be somewhat unique in its own way... which might effect how the lights perform! It is still awaiting construction by Paul, while we search for a Midnight Blue guitar to convert.
Seeing these pictures/videos is making me crazy in anticipation!
Seeing these pictures/videos is making me crazy in anticipation!
- scoobster28
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Re: Different Light Show!!!
I finally received by Lightshow conversion from Paul and it is indeed different as I noted above. Instead of the typical 330MID guitar, I had my pickups switched for toasters (nothing special there) and then I had the regular tailpiece switched for an Accent. From what Paul has said, I own the first 335 (330 + 5) lightshow conversion out there. I haven't played it much yet, but it looks fantastic and I love it. I doubt I will ever use the Accent much but they make Rickenbackers look really cool.scoobster28 wrote:That Lightshow of McGuinn's is the biggest reason I want a lightshow. Mine will not be a 12 string but it will be somewhat unique in its own way... which might effect how the lights perform! It is still awaiting construction by Paul, while we search for a Midnight Blue guitar to convert.
Re: Different Light Show!!!
A few more days and you would have had a 7 year itch!
No pics??? Video???
No pics??? Video???