Questions about my '66 360/12

Early years of Rickenbacker Guitars prior to and including 1972

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bossaddict
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Questions about my '66 360/12

Post by bossaddict »

Greetings! I am new to the forum and to Rickenbackers as well. I've wanted a 12-string Rick for just about as long as I've been playing guitar (26 years). About two weeks ago, I purchased my first - a 1966 360/12 in JetGlo finish. The guitar is largely original, with the exceptions being the bridge, pickguard, blend knob/pot, and switch tip (I think).

I'm absolutely in love with the sound of this guitar (as expected), but I do have some issues with the action. I currently have the bridge lowered down as far as it will go and the action is still a little high, especially on the upper frets. It came strung with some round wound 10-46 D'Addario strings and I've restrung it with a set of Pyramid 10-42 flatwounds. I thought perhaps the slightly lighter gauge (at least on the low end) might help with the action, but it still could stand to be a little lower.

I'm wondering if there's something that I'm missing about getting the bridge any lower? Would a vintage bridge be any shorter at the saddles than my 12-saddle replacement that's on here? Also, the screws that hold the base plate (not sure if that's the proper term) beneath the bridge do not sit 100% flush, which means that the bridge can't sit in complete contact with the plate underneath. In other words, it's more resting on the screws (slightly). You can see a slight gap in the photo below.

Image

I thought perhaps that I could reduce the relief in the neck, but when I took off the TRC, I realized that I'm not sure exactly how I'm supposed to adjust the truss rods. On other guitars, I typically use a nut driver and that is also what I looked up for this guitar, but as shown here, there is no space between the nut and the headstock. Is that normal for this model?

Image

One final thing that I noticed is that the neck angle isn't what I'm used to from other guitars. When viewed from the side, the neck travels "uphill" relative to the guitar top (with the top being considered level). From researching the forum the last few days, it seems like that isn't unusual, but in some cases where is it too extreme, a neck reset has been performed. I'm really hoping to avoid that, but would welcome any opinions.

Image

Anyway, sorry for such a long post as my first post on the forum. I've already learned a lot from some of you via your previous posts. Glad to be here! :D
'42 293 Artist | '54 Les Paul | '56 Les Paul Jr. | '61 Les Paul Std. | '62 SJN | '64 Coronet | '64 Strat | '67 360/12 | '87 Striker 100ST | '88 S-400 | '89 T-310 | '90 Firebird | '07 HM R9 | '08 R0 | '10 R5 | '11 R8 | '12 AVRI Tele | '14 ES-345
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bdawson7
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Re: Questions about my '66 360/12

Post by bdawson7 »

Welcome, David!
Congrats on scratching that long-festering itch!

I'll try to sum up what I've learned from the experts on here... they will be of more detailed help.

Simple thing first: the truss nuts are often very close to the wood, you have to sand/grind down the outer walls of the nut driver for it to fit in there.

Next check the bow of the neck: hold a string at 1st and about 20th fret, check space between string and ~9th fret. Ricks like there to be as close to no space there as possible. Adjust truss rod to get that, maximum 1/4 turn per day.

Rick bridges are designed to be ground down at the saddles to adjust string height and horizontal placement, doing this on yours seems like it could get you 1-3 mm.

Now if your bridge still won't go low enough, (which btw yours is definitely low enough already, normal is definitely higher than that) the neck reset is the only remaining fix.

Not a big surprise based on the age of this 12-string (almost 50 years!)

Good Luck! :)
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collin
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Re: Questions about my '66 360/12

Post by collin »

Greetings David, and welcome!

Don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but you need a neck reset - no question about it (I can see it in the photo!). This is very common on vintage Ricks, particularly 12-strings from '64-'66 (when they had three-piece tops).

Plenty of info on the board about resetting a neck, but it's a major surgery and will ding the value of the guitar to an extent. Without a neck reset though, it will not play well and will only get worse over time.

If it's not too late, I'd bring it up to the seller and see about returning it or a serious price adjustment.

If that isn't an option you may be able to buy some time grinding the bridge baseplate down very thin, removing the grommets under the bridge pickup and lowering the bridge all the way down. Don't mess with the truss rod, it is NOT a truss rod issue.
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collin
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Re: Questions about my '66 360/12

Post by collin »

Also, get rid of those Pyramid strings stat - they have higher tension and will pull your neck even further out of place.

For vintage Rick 12-strings, I highly recommend making your own set if ultra thin-gauge strings (8-38). I make a set from three extra light gauge roundwound D'addario packs. Trust me, the tone will still be there, without further damage to your guitar.
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bossaddict
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Re: Questions about my '66 360/12

Post by bossaddict »

collin wrote:Also, get rid of those Pyramid strings stat - they have higher tension and will pull your neck even further out of place.

For vintage Rick 12-strings, I highly recommend making your own set if ultra thin-gauge strings (8-38). I make a set from three extra light gauge roundwound D'addario packs. Trust me, the tone will still be there, without further damage to your guitar.
Great tip, thanks. I just detuned the guitar for now since reading this.
'42 293 Artist | '54 Les Paul | '56 Les Paul Jr. | '61 Les Paul Std. | '62 SJN | '64 Coronet | '64 Strat | '67 360/12 | '87 Striker 100ST | '88 S-400 | '89 T-310 | '90 Firebird | '07 HM R9 | '08 R0 | '10 R5 | '11 R8 | '12 AVRI Tele | '14 ES-345
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bossaddict
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Re: Questions about my '66 360/12

Post by bossaddict »

Thanks to everyone for the replies. It sounds like what I was afraid of, which is that it needs a neck reset. I've contact the seller as this wasn't something I was counting on. It does sounds amazing though. :(

Thanks again, everyone!
'42 293 Artist | '54 Les Paul | '56 Les Paul Jr. | '61 Les Paul Std. | '62 SJN | '64 Coronet | '64 Strat | '67 360/12 | '87 Striker 100ST | '88 S-400 | '89 T-310 | '90 Firebird | '07 HM R9 | '08 R0 | '10 R5 | '11 R8 | '12 AVRI Tele | '14 ES-345
bowser2533
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Re: Questions about my '66 360/12

Post by bowser2533 »

Im no expert on Vintage Ricks by no means, but always thot that the the 60s guitars only had single truss rods in the neck? Gary
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sloop_john_b
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Re: Questions about my '66 360/12

Post by sloop_john_b »

bowser2533 wrote:Im no expert on Vintage Ricks by no means, but always thot that the the 60s guitars only had single truss rods in the neck? Gary
That is not true.
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collin
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Re: Questions about my '66 360/12

Post by collin »

bowser2533 wrote:Im no expert on Vintage Ricks by no means, but always thot that the the 60s guitars only had single truss rods in the neck? Gary
Yep, you're definitely not an expert on vintage Ricks. :lol:
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libratune
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Re: Questions about my '66 360/12

Post by libratune »

bowser2533 wrote:Im no expert on Vintage Ricks by no means, but always thot that the the 60s guitars only had single truss rods in the neck? Gary
That would be most '50s guitars.
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