Bubbling paint ? (headstock) Please have a look

[4000]

I've recently bought a 360, second hand, but near new, since from 2014.

Probably because the perfect look & high level of workmanship, one little thing I saw in the finish near the low-E tuner struck my eye.

Around the tuning post there's a circle-segment where the paint is elevated. Don't want to nitpick on the otherwise flawless finish,
I just became curious to what it could be and would like to verify it doesn't indicate a potential issue with the wood below or anything.

(see picture)

Anybody any suggestions ? Or has seen anything alike ?

I've contacted the friendly people @ Rickenbacker Service last week and they couldn't tell with certainty either what it could be:
("This has been seen before rarely but on 4003 models around the tailpiece, the only thing that I can think of is perhaps the original owner may have tightened the washer at the tuning key and when they did so it was tightened too much resulting in the bubbled finish.")

Again, if it's just cosmetically then OK, so be it... But in case there's something under the hood, with the wood, then I'd better address the issue.

Any responses much appreciated.

Thanks!

[4000]

adding another pic

[4000]

and that's three !

[Grey]

I've seen this with happen with Gibson headstocks, and even experienced it myself on my '97 SG Standard. What i've been able to learn is that it's caused by the locking nut being tigtened too much which causes the finish to bubble up around the edges. Since the Nitrocellulose finish that Gibson uses never really cures these bubbles can appear long after the guitar was manufactured. In recent years I believe Rickenbacker has been using a more permanant type of polyurethane/polyester finish, and I was not aware this could even happen with poly once it has fully cured.

[4000]

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated!

OK, so I understand this could have happened after leaving the factory. (Suppose if it had happend before that, the Ric quality control would have spotted it.)

Either way, it sounds like it's all purely cosmetical, no worries below the paint, right ?

Must admit that I don't know the type of finish (nitro/poly) for this 2014-360, but based on your info I understand it'll be poly.

Thanks again / bye

[chrisdski]

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=408006&start=15

[4000]

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=408006&start=15

Thanks for that link. It's pretty informing and unfortunately alarming as well,
since I now realize the bubbling on my gtr is straight into "the direction of the force" (the pulling from the low-E string)...

... which would mean that I should reconsider my intention to restring for thicker strings.

Also disappointing that it gives me the impression this issue seems to be recognized by Ric Service, but wasn't acknowledged when I informed them about this...

Best regards & thanks again

[jingle_jangle]

It's a clear coat bubble from the washer under the tuner nut being over-tightened. Odd, because the UV-cured polyester clearcoat comes out of the curing oven too hard to bubble.

In any event, this is nothing to worry about, as it does not indicate anything wrong with thee wood beneath and will affect neither sound nor playability.

Enjoy your Rickenbacker. Take two Xanax and write me in the morning!

[4000]

It's a clear coat bubble from the washer under the tuner nut being over-tightened. Odd, because the UV-cured polyester clearcoat comes out of the curing oven too hard to bubble.

In any event, this is nothing to worry about, as it does not indicate anything wrong with thee wood beneath and will affect neither sound nor playability.

Enjoy your Rickenbacker. Take two Xanax and write me in the morning!

Thanks for the response & recommendation . This sure won't stop me enjoying this nice guitar
still I guess it's illustrative that the pic in the thread that Chris D linked to has the bubbling also in "the direction of the string-force"
(I've attached the first pic of that thread, luckily the situation is not that bad (yet?) for my 360)

So I could imagine that thicker strings (now a ~0.050 for the low-E) might increase the bubble.
Either way, I'll reduce the tightening of the tuner -nut when restringing.

Best regards

[aceonbass]

The problem I had with my 4004MID was not how hard the paint was, but how poorly it adhered to the wood underneath. I discovered this sooner than later during conversation of the bass to a five string. Before routing the body for a 4003 style bridge pickup assembly and tailpiece, I masked off the entire face of the body, laid out my routes, razored off where I was gonna cut, then routed it. As I peeled the tape off of the bass, the finish came up with it in places! Nice job RIC! I was pulling the tape off slowly. Not like I was giving it a Bazillion or anything. I took pics and sent them to Kenny when he was at RIC, but heard nothing back. Since I was modding the bass, I knew the warranty was void, but this would have eventually shown up as dings the bass had already received were lifting. If your bass or guitar is doing it in one place, it will eventually do it in others. So much for the legendary RIC finishes known for surviving decades.

[antipodean]

I have had historical issues with small bits of finish flaking/bubbling and breaking off from stress areas (around screw holes and lamination joints) of my 660/12 and my 330. After asking a few questions here and on the RIC site, it became apparent that significant changes in humidity can result in this sort of finish damage on Rickenbackers. Both instruments predate the current UV-cured finish, so I'm not sure if this is still the case.

[4000]

The problem I had with my 4004MID was not how hard the paint was, but how poorly it adhered to the wood underneath.

As I peeled the tape off of the bass, the finish came up with it in places!

If your bass or guitar is doing it in one place, it will eventually do it in others. So much for the legendary RIC finishes known for surviving decades.

Ough!

OK, after having been convinced the semihollow models are pretty sturdy construction-wise, it becomes clear there's actually this other Achilles' heel I start to underdstand...

Are some finishes more vulnerable ("less wood-sticky") than others ? Can imagine the translucent ones better sticking than the 'full seal' MID & JetGlo & Ruby Red etc

[4000]

I have had historical issues with small bits of finish flaking/bubbling and breaking off from stress areas (around screw holes and lamination joints) of my 660/12 and my 330. After asking a few questions here and on the RIC site, it became apparent that significant changes in humidity can result in this sort of finish damage on Rickenbackers. Both instruments predate the current UV-cured finish, so I'm not sure if this is still the case.

Thaks for responding. Sorry to hear about the finish damages on your guitars!

W.r.t. the current UV-curing, the pics at the beginning of this thread are from a 2014 360/6.

[admin]

Clint what was the month of manufacture of your Rickenbacker?

[4000]

Clint what was the month of manufacture of your Rickenbacker?

It's February ( week 06 ) of 2014.

Curious to what this could indicate!

Thanks & best regards