I read a critique somewhere about Rickenbacker longevity (I forget what model, but it seems they were talking about the carved body cavity models like 300 series, etc.).
The statement was made that a neck reset would be an especially expensive affair for this type of guitar because the back would have to be removed first.
Looking at my '97 330/12, and slightly older 325V63, I can't see much cause for concern. There seems to be PLENTY of available adjustment at the bridge.
I have seen an old '60's 400 series solidbody that looked more difficult to adjust.
Care to comment?
I have always taken care not to expose any instrument to excess humidity/heat exposure.
Current production Rickenbackers seem like very stable designs to me, structurally.
I assume all 12 string Rickenbackers are built to be tuned to concert pitch, and that string gauges (within recommended applications) shouldn't pose any problem?
Longevity
Moderator: jingle_jangle
-
Mark
There is a noticeable problem with the 300 series.And that is...for one reason or another,the bridge is lowered all the way to the face and the string action can not be lowered any more without serious surgery.This is NOT a universal problem and I don't have any hard evidence as to it's origins.I have however,noticed this as early as the mid 1970's as a regular phenomenon.
Meaning...I see it frequently but not on all of the guitars.
The interesting point here is...I have not witnessed this on any 1970's,1980's or 1990's era guitars.Only the 1960's and not the original capri's.So .....without gutting a bunch of guitars ,to find the cause and assess this problem,I can't say what the cause of it is.
I have several theories but...This should be looked into by the factory.It may be that the body routing was performed differently in the 1960s and the backs were made of a different material than previous and were changed at some point in the late 1960 to early 1970's.
I bought a 1960's 12 string from John Hall and this was in 1972.It had the problem and grew to be horrible.
I sold it after the bridge hit bottom on the face.
Why the bodies do this ...
??????????????????????????????????????????????????
My general feeling is that ,if you must have this done ,it may not be a neck set that really will fix the problem but rather (and this is a radical idea) make a new body .I know this sounds absurd ,but with out getting 3 or 4 guitars with the same problem together to diagnose what causes this,then resetting may be only a temporary fix.
I have a very good friend that has a 1960's 360-12 and the body is so warped that I suggested the new body thing.He's thinking about it.
I said that I could take the back off,but that would only start to explore the cause of the warpage.
My gut feeling is ,lets get an official comment from the factory as to their recommendation and if that is not satisfactory to some people(s),then a cottage industry could be born.
Meaning...I see it frequently but not on all of the guitars.
The interesting point here is...I have not witnessed this on any 1970's,1980's or 1990's era guitars.Only the 1960's and not the original capri's.So .....without gutting a bunch of guitars ,to find the cause and assess this problem,I can't say what the cause of it is.
I have several theories but...This should be looked into by the factory.It may be that the body routing was performed differently in the 1960s and the backs were made of a different material than previous and were changed at some point in the late 1960 to early 1970's.
I bought a 1960's 12 string from John Hall and this was in 1972.It had the problem and grew to be horrible.
I sold it after the bridge hit bottom on the face.
Why the bodies do this ...
??????????????????????????????????????????????????
My general feeling is that ,if you must have this done ,it may not be a neck set that really will fix the problem but rather (and this is a radical idea) make a new body .I know this sounds absurd ,but with out getting 3 or 4 guitars with the same problem together to diagnose what causes this,then resetting may be only a temporary fix.
I have a very good friend that has a 1960's 360-12 and the body is so warped that I suggested the new body thing.He's thinking about it.
I said that I could take the back off,but that would only start to explore the cause of the warpage.
My gut feeling is ,lets get an official comment from the factory as to their recommendation and if that is not satisfactory to some people(s),then a cottage industry could be born.
-
yettoblaster
- Veteran RRF member
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Sun Aug 27, 2000 1:52 am
-
Mark
No you are still making a new body.
the replacement bodies that I made utilized the original hardware and of course the neck.
I changed the neck supports in/on the face to run all the way back to the bevel cut for the 'R' tailpiece.I then added in the standard X brace ,but due to the enclosed neck area ,these don't run the full length like they did originally.I also used 1/4 sawn maple for the bracing to get the maximum strength .I duplicated the control cavities and the round over on the face.I was able to save the checkered binding and reuse it ,but the white out binding was replaced.
It was very difficult to tell that it was done at all.I knew and so did the owner but several shops in the area felt that that guiar (inside and out ) was stock as a rock.
Now I do want to point out that I do not make counterfiet rickenbackers nor have I ever ,nor will I .I don't need the headache and I'm busy with my own thing.
If John Hall doesn't like what I do He tells me and we can discuss the whys /why nots.
I don't see this as a legal issue ....just a repair.
the replacement bodies that I made utilized the original hardware and of course the neck.
I changed the neck supports in/on the face to run all the way back to the bevel cut for the 'R' tailpiece.I then added in the standard X brace ,but due to the enclosed neck area ,these don't run the full length like they did originally.I also used 1/4 sawn maple for the bracing to get the maximum strength .I duplicated the control cavities and the round over on the face.I was able to save the checkered binding and reuse it ,but the white out binding was replaced.
It was very difficult to tell that it was done at all.I knew and so did the owner but several shops in the area felt that that guiar (inside and out ) was stock as a rock.
Now I do want to point out that I do not make counterfiet rickenbackers nor have I ever ,nor will I .I don't need the headache and I'm busy with my own thing.
If John Hall doesn't like what I do He tells me and we can discuss the whys /why nots.
I don't see this as a legal issue ....just a repair.
-
Mark
One other thing on this subject(and I'd like to get some feed back on this )
I have seen this happen with 1964 to 1971 300 series guitars but after that I have not.
Anyone else have this problem after this point?
I'm curious if the factory 'fixed' it or if there is some other answer as to why it happened
I have seen this happen with 1964 to 1971 300 series guitars but after that I have not.
Anyone else have this problem after this point?
I'm curious if the factory 'fixed' it or if there is some other answer as to why it happened