Bridge dropping on a 330/12

[cestlamort]

After not playing my new-to-me recent 330/12 for a little while, I've noticed that the bridge has dropped on the treble side, so that the strings fret out on the first few frets. (Perhaps it's lashing out at the lack of attention?)

I gave the screws on the bridge a few turns (as they were visibly loose) and it seemed fine. Until it dropped again a day or so later.

It seems that the string pressure is pushing the bridge down on the treble site.

Any suggestions for solutions to keep it from dropping/loosening:
locktite and nail polish (the latter which I have on hand. Sorry, that was terrible) seem to be the conventional wisdom for securing screws (at least on Jazzmaster/jaguar bridges). Is there another solution that worth looking into?

Thanks!

[johnallg]

Loctite or clear nail polish would be my suggestion also. The vibration is causing them to come loose.

[kiramdear]

There are also non-RIC replacement bridge options to consider. Tune-O-matics can be successfully modded into service, and some aggressive players have sung the praises of the new Mastery bridge for ricks.

[Chrome Aardvark]

There are also non-RIC replacement bridge options to consider. Tune-O-matics can be successfully modded into service, and some aggressive players have sung the praises of the new Mastery bridge for ricks.

Which work great on a six-stringer, but not a twelve. Add me to the list of loctite/nail polish advocates.

[kiramdear]

There are also non-RIC replacement bridge options to consider. Tune-O-matics can be successfully modded into service, and some aggressive players have sung the praises of the new Mastery bridge for ricks.

Which work great on a six-stringer, but not a twelve. Add me to the list of loctite/nail polish advocates.

My Carl Wilson 12 does fine with its six-saddle bridge. Finding the right set of strings makes this possible, I believe. But, of course, the loctite/nail polish idea is by far the more economical, simpler solution if it works.

[cestlamort]

Thanks for the advice.
It seems that once the slipping started, it now does it on its own (in the case, between playing times).
I'd love an excuse to try out a Mastery, but I don't think the 12-string would be a good match.

This may be too basic a question, but what is the best (or easiest) way to apply the nail polish (or loctite)?

Where?
- on threads below bridge
- where threads meet bridge (below, above, both sides)
- slather it all over the place

Apply with:
- normal tension
- loosened strings
- bridge removed

[ken_j]

Apply on the threads above the bridge then adjust to the proper height. That way the Loctie will be in the threads on both parts. I would use a removable strength Loctite like # 242 (blue). As an option you could adjust the height of the bridge to where you want it and use # 290 (green) wicking Loctite afterwards, it will creep into the thread joint. Both of these are removabkle without heat. It only takes a drop, don't use too much.

[Clint]

It seems that once the slipping started, it now does it on its own (in the case, between playing times).

If this is the case, isn't it possible that either the screws or the holes are stripped?

[jps]

It seems that once the slipping started, it now does it on its own (in the case, between playing times).

If this is the case, isn't it possible that either the screws or the holes are stripped?

That's what I would think, too.

[cestlamort]

It seems that once the slipping started, it now does it on its own (in the case, between playing times).

If this is the case, isn't it possible that either the screws or the holes are stripped?

That's what I would think, too.

That is a possibility. (I've only had it a month or so).

I'll try the loctite/nailpolish method first. (and cross my fingers)

[Chrome Aardvark]

There are also non-RIC replacement bridge options to consider. Tune-O-matics can be successfully modded into service, and some aggressive players have sung the praises of the new Mastery bridge for ricks.

Which work great on a six-stringer, but not a twelve. Add me to the list of loctite/nail polish advocates.

My Carl Wilson 12 does fine with its six-saddle bridge. Finding the right set of strings makes this possible, I believe. But, of course, the loctite/nail polish idea is by far the more economical, simpler solution if it works.

That may be so, but a Mastery Bridge won't work on a twelve. Tune-O-Matic six-saddle bridges reslotted for 12-string will work, but not as good as the standard RIC bridge. There are plenty of options for RIC 6-stringers, but not that many for 12-strings.

If loctite isn't keeping it stable and the thread is gone on the bridge, rather than the allen scew, then the question is, will it be a six-saddle or twelve-saddle replacement bridge? Hopefully a drop of loctite or nail polish sorts out the issue.

[Dom]

Teflon tape for pipe threads may also be a simple solution if the threads look or feel stripped, and it is easily removed. Raise the bridge up, apply the tape then lower into place. Also works great for stripped potentiometer nuts or loose pickguard screws where you don't want to add glue or adhesive.

[teb]

My take on the situation is that it is a condition that shouldn't be happening and shouldn't be tolerated. There is pretty obviously something stripped and if it was my guitar I wouldn't be happy until it was fixed properly. This would eliminate the fixes with glue, tape or any other temporary means. I would take the bridge off and figure out which piece(s) are stripped. If it was the screws, I'd replace them and if it was the bridge channel, I'd re-tap it and then replace the screws with some that fit the new threads. There just doesn't seem to be a reason to mess around with the situation. A well set-up twelve should be able to sit for six months, played or not, and barely even go out of tune in that time.