The toaster pickup I have on my 330 was cutting in and out at my last gig. I took it out to have a look and the black wire was holding on by a couple of threads. I decided to take it off and strip the wire down to create more bare wire for all the connections.
Now it ain't working at all. I'm positive I have made all the right connections, perhaps someone can tell me? I've looked this up and it seems perfect. Anyone else tell me what I could be doing wrong? The connection to the other side is fine, I'm more worried about this side of the wire to the pickup. Could I have accidentally created too much heat to the pickup with the soldering iron or something and burnt the connections? I've not a scoop
Knackered Toaster?
Moderator: jingle_jangle
- cassius987
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4708
- Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2008 2:11 pm
Re: Knackered Toaster?
This is way too common IMO, and I am not sure if it is the solder quality or what... but I have seen at least 3 leads that have come off of Toasters at the bobbin end on different occasions. There is a lot of strain on the leads as the pickguard is taken off, so a weak joint just gets shredded. The good news is it is easily fixed with better soldering.
- sloop_john_b
- Rick-a-holic
- Posts: 13836
- Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 6:00 am
Re: Knackered Toaster?
Yep, it happened to me a whole bunch of times.cassius987 wrote:This is way too common IMO, and I am not sure if it is the solder quality or what... but I have seen at least 3 leads that have come off of Toasters at the bobbin end on different occasions. There is a lot of strain on the leads as the pickguard is taken off, so a weak joint just gets shredded. The good news is it is easily fixed with better soldering.
Re: Knackered Toaster?
Yeah, but the pictures are after I've had my way with it...having thought I'd fixed it. I can't think what else it could be.
Re: Knackered Toaster?
I'm used to military spec electronics, so I'm sometimes overly critical, but even on commercial electronics, the solder 'blob' shouldn't come off the ground lug with the wire. I had that happen on a hi-gain. The wire should have to break to come loose. Anything commercial from 2005 or 2006 can be iffy as RoHS went into effect before good compliant soldering was in place. (We ignore RoHS and still use PbSn solder in defense electronics.)
With regard to the specific question, I see two possible issues from heat and a possible third.
If the soldering iron was too large (too many Watts) or was held on the pins coming out of the pickup for too long, you can disconnect the wires on the other side of the pin. That would show as an open circuit (high resistance) if measured.
I'm not sure, but in the photo it kind of looks like the grey insulation on the wire has shrunk-down a little (tighter than normal) on the wires. Too much heat could also melt the insulation on the black wire inside the grey jacket and cause a short to the bare wire. That would measure as a low resistance.
For the third thing, I can't see everything clearly, but I don't like the looks of the end of the black wire connecting to the pin. The strands of the wire are kind of "ratty" looking. It's possible one of the strands could be touching metal somewhere and causing a short. Look that over good to check. Next time, after stripping the wire, twist the strands together tightly and melt a little bit of solder on the end first, before soldering to the connection and then hold the wire carefully while soldering so the strands don't fan-out like that.
With regard to the specific question, I see two possible issues from heat and a possible third.
If the soldering iron was too large (too many Watts) or was held on the pins coming out of the pickup for too long, you can disconnect the wires on the other side of the pin. That would show as an open circuit (high resistance) if measured.
I'm not sure, but in the photo it kind of looks like the grey insulation on the wire has shrunk-down a little (tighter than normal) on the wires. Too much heat could also melt the insulation on the black wire inside the grey jacket and cause a short to the bare wire. That would measure as a low resistance.
For the third thing, I can't see everything clearly, but I don't like the looks of the end of the black wire connecting to the pin. The strands of the wire are kind of "ratty" looking. It's possible one of the strands could be touching metal somewhere and causing a short. Look that over good to check. Next time, after stripping the wire, twist the strands together tightly and melt a little bit of solder on the end first, before soldering to the connection and then hold the wire carefully while soldering so the strands don't fan-out like that.
Life is suffering; the cause of suffering is desire. Envy is a deadly sin. Save your soul, go ahead and buy another one....
Re: Knackered Toaster?
For good reason as lead free solder is a creation of Satan!Ric5150 wrote:Anything commercial from 2005 or 2006 can be iffy as RoHS went into effect before good compliant soldering was in place. (We ignore RoHS and still use PbSn solder in defense electronics.)