Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Anyone know how to wire one of these up?

This switch: http://boutique.rickenbacker.com/POTENT ... p_666.html

Not the schematic, please.

Thanks!

The switch part (with just two lugs) would be wired across the .0047 cap to bypass it, and the pot part (three lugs) gets wired in just like the current bridge pickup tone control.

Hope this helps!

jps wrote:The switch part (with just two lugs) would be wired across the .0047 cap to bypass it, and the pot part (three lugs) gets wired in just like the current bridge pickup tone control.

Hope this helps!

That DOES help!

So, wire the .0047 to both ends of the two-lug part, and the three-lug part like normal?

Yes; leave the capacitor in place just run wires from those two lugs, one each, to each lead coming out of the cap so that the switch is in parallel with the cap. I am not sure which position (up or down) shorts the cap but in one position the cap is in circuit cutting the bass, and in the other position it will bypass the cap providing full range from the pickup.

Kenny.....I stock 500K pots similar to the ones RIC used to use, as well as several different .0047uF tone caps if you haven't already purchased the 330K CTS pot. I can sent a wiring diagram with the parts as well.

aceonbass wrote:Kenny.....I stock 500K pots similar to the ones RIC used to use, as well as several different .0047uF tone caps if you haven't already purchased the 330K CTS pot. I can sent a wiring diagram with the parts as well.

Thanks Dane - I have a couple of the newer style pots and want to use them, hence my inquiry.

jps wrote:Yes; leave the capacitor in place just run wires from those two lugs, one each, to each lead coming out of the cap so that the switch is in parallel with the cap. I am not sure which position (up or down) shorts the cap but in one position the cap is in circuit cutting the bass, and in the other position it will bypass the cap providing full range from the pickup.

Those are normally-closed, "open" when pulled, so if the cap is in parallel, it would be bypassed when down, there when pulled. (Normally modern, pull for vintage.)

Given the old switch's way of working, I figured the switch is NC when down but I was not sure, so thanks for that useful info, Dan.