Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 6

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rickfan60
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Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 6

Post by rickfan60 »

Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass – Part 6 – The Pickups


This will probably be the longest of the installments in this series. In hindsight I probably should have done it in two parts. :)

Apart from the inevitable threads about strings and amps, one of the most discussed topics on this forum is pickups. By my count Rickenbacker has used 14 different pickup types since the 4000 series was first offered back in 1957. Each type has its fans and detractors and all provide us with nearly endless discussion. I probably missed some variants or details so please feel free to fill in the blanks. Be sure to click on the pics to see larger versions.

I have broken the pickups down into these groups.

2 Horseshoes Vintage and VRI (2 or 3 versions)
7 Hi-gains Transition, 70/80, 80/90, 5 string v1, 5 string v2, plastic bobbin, adjustable
2 Toasters Long and short magnet (standard and scatter wound)
1 4002
2 Humbuckers HB1 and HB2


The coil impedance values listed below are a summation of my own measurements and those reported by others. They are not intended as an absolute reference nor do they necessarily describe any official RIC specifications.

Horseshoe Pickups

The very first bass pickups were offered long before there was a 4000 series. In the 1930s Rickenbacker made retrofits for upright basses. This rare surviving example has since been restored by Jason Lollar and currently belongs to the Smithsonian Institution.
pic-1-.jpg

Unlike Fenders, Rickenbacker basses have sported very little true bass hardware over the years. In the beginning, nearly all of the hardware used on Rickenbacker basses including the pickups started out as guitar parts. The first 4000 series basses have horseshoe pickups that were more or less lifted right out of the steel guitar line. I don't know why the Horseshoe model was chosen over the Toaster at the time but that decision set the standard for the 4000 series that has endured to this day. This is why the treble pickup looks and operates at it does. There is really no practical reason anymore for the surround and the deep body route. It has simply become the “look” and the expectation of Rickenbacker players. Of course there were a few practical modifications made to the horseshoe like a four pole bobbin and a symmetrical surround but the original pickup is essentially unchanged. A vintage horseshoe consists of a bobbin and coil wound to about 6K ohms inside of two tungsten steel horseshoe magnets. The bobbins are molded black plastic with four fillister head screws as poles. The poles are not meant to be adjusted. They were cut to length so that when turned flush with the bottom of the bobbin they are at the correct height on top. The entire assembly is mounted on a rectangular aluminum plate with threaded holes at each end that accept the height adjuster screws.

Vintage Horseshoe Pickup
pic-2-.jpg
These pickups produce wonderful sounds and have been used by prominent bassists on many popular recordings over the years. Despite this, the original horseshoe pickups have some significant design flaws. First, the magnets rapidly loose their gauss and must be regularly re-gaussed to be at their best. Also, the gap between the poles and the magnets is narrow. If played too hard, the strings can easily strike either one causing a loud noise to be heard though the amp. The weak magnet and pole arrangement sets up a very narrow space where the string can be “heard”. Bending notes (or even striking them too hard) can quickly take the string out of the sweet spot causing a noticeable volume drop. When played carefully, vintage horseshoe pickups produce a great tone with interesting texture. A light touch is best but with some practice it is possible to dig in and get a dirty tone ala Chris Squire. Chris is careful to pull the strings across the poles avoiding collisions between the strings and pickup parts. He really makes it look easy but mastering the technique takes some practice and skill.

In the mid 80's Rickenbacker introduced the model 4001V63 and with it a new version of the horseshoe pickup. While cosmetically it is an approximation of the original, it is entirely different functionally. The magnetic field derives from four ALNICO poles not the shoes themselves. The horseshoes serve as covers and apparently also shield the pickup from electrical noise. Some have said that the pickup sounds different with the shoes removed. I have not tested that theory but I suppose it could be so. The overall design is very similar to that of the Toaster so it is not a total departure for Rickenbacker. It is just the first time the idea was applied to the bass treble pickup.

The sound of the VRI horseshoe is not a constant because there were at least two different versions produced. The version used in the 4001V63 is quite hot – close to 11K ohms by some measurements. Some feel it is too hot and overpowers the Toaster.

Many 4001CS players who have also played V63s seem to feel the CS has a different sound. I don't know if this is true but it would not surprise me if turns out that the CS has tweaked pickups. The horseshoe used in the 4001C64 is not nearly as hot as the earlier version but is otherwise of the same construction.

On early VRI horseshoes, the upper and lower sides of the U are parallel. The original horseshoe magnets are slightly open – the sides are not parallel. At some point the factory took note and started shaping the shoes to look more like the originals.

To my ear, the VRI horseshoe is a bit fatter sounding than a Hi-gain with about the same punch. It overdrives nicely, if you are so inclined, and cuts through the mix. I normally remove my treble pickup covers but leave the shoes of my VRIs in place. I guess I just like the look. :)

Vintage Reissue Horseshoe Pickup
pic-3-.jpg

Hi-gain Pickups

By mid 1968 Rickenbacker dropped the horseshoe pickups on both their steels and basses in favor of a more conventional under-string design called the Hi-gain.

The first Hi-gains have pale green or white resin-board bobbin flanges painted black with screws used as poles. As with the horseshoe bobbins, the screws were cut to length and not meant to be adjusted. The coils were wound to about 7K ohms, a bit hotter than the previous model. The horseshoe magnets were replaced by a thick piece of flexible magnet material placed directly under the bobbin and held in place by adhesive.

These first Hi-gains are often called transitional Hi-gains by players and collectors. This example sports an owner-applied coat of black paint that also covers the aluminum base plate. Note the shape of the base plate and how it differs from the ones used on horseshoe pickups.
pic-4-.jpg

Along with the new pickup design Rickenbacker also introduced the rounded rectangular pickup surround and the plastic cover / hand rest.

In late 1972 or early 1973 an improved version of the Hi-gain was introduced. Gone were the screw pole pieces - replaced instead by type U drive screws. This was done presumably to prevent people from trying to adjust the height of the poles. Turning the screws on the earlier models could actually damage the coil windings or even cause the lower flange to fall off (messy business either way). Drive screws are typically used when the fastened parts are intended to never be disassembled. It seems logical then that Rickenbacker meant for the poles to stay put. The aluminum base plate was replaced with one of black plastic. I believe this is also when the treble surround lost its scalloped front and rear edges. Around this time or shortly after the coils were stepped up to about 8.5K ohms.
Last edited by rickfan60 on Sun Apr 12, 2009 11:54 pm, edited 3 times in total.
rickfan60
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 6

Post by rickfan60 »

A 70's Hi-gain and type U drive screws.
pic-5-.jpg

The Hi-gain design and materials remained constant until the mid 80s when the coil impedance was increased again to about 9.5K ohms. Right around the same time the material used for the bobbin flanges and the type U drive screws changed color to black, no longer requiring a paint step. The base plate of the treble pickup gained a little thickness around the adjusters and the scalloped surround reappeared. In 1986 a five pole version of the Hi-gain was made for the 4003S/5.

A late 80's Hi-gain with black bobbin flanges and unpainted drive screws.
pic-6-.jpg

In the mid 90's the bobbin was replaced with a molded one-piece unit that could be used in either Hi-gain or toaster models. The type U drive screws were changed from black to a bronze color. The coil was increased to about 10.5K ohms. The 5 string Hi-gain bobbins changed to something similar (same) to the material used on the VRI Horseshoe bobbins.
pic-7-.jpg

The most recent Hi-gains appear to be wound to about 12K ohms and feature for the first time, adjustable pole pieces. These pickups produce a rich full bodied tone with lots of lows and highs and in my opinion are the overall best bass pickups Rickenbacker ever produced.
pic-8-.jpg


Toaster Pickups

The Rickenbacker Toaster (some times called chrome bar) pickups have been in near continuous production in one form or another since the late 1950's. The nickname derives from the fact that the top of the pickup resembles the slots of an old style chrome bread toaster. Once an informal name applied by enthusiasts, Toaster and Toaster Top have since become registered trademarks of RIC.

Toasters have a very different design from either the horseshoes or Hi-gains in that they have magnetic pole pieces. All versions I have seen except perhaps the very early ones have 6 1/4” diameter ALNICO rod magnets arranged vertically inside the coil windings. There are early examples with covered bottoms and I can only assume they have the same magnets. The wide field setup by the large poles gives the Toaster a smooth and even string response. Bent notes don't fade or disappear. The consensus among players is the Toaster offers a softer more mellow tone with less attack and definition than a Hi-gain. This does not mean though that there is no treble punch. After all the Toaster is the source of the jangly guitar tones made popular by The Beatles and Roger McGuinn.
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 6

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Typical Toasters
pic-9-.jpg
The first use of the Toaster on a bass model was in 1961 with the introduction of the 4001. Spaced at roughly 1/2” from the end of the fingerboard the toaster provides a soft, almost muddy offset to the relatively sharp sound of the horseshoe pickup. When blended, the two produce a tone unique to 60's Rickenbacker basses.

Since the 4001 the Toaster has appeared on the models 4005, 4008, 4003B, 4001V63, 4003SPC Blackstar (some), 4003S/5, 4003S/8, 4001CS, 4001C64, 4001C64S, and as a vintage pickup (VP) option on the 4003.


Early toasters were wound to around 6K ohms. Later ones where 7K to 8.5K ohms. I measured one from a 2004 4003VP that was only about 6.1K ohms. I have heard that some measure out as high as 10K ohms but have never actually seen one that high.


Magnet Length
There are a few design variations of the Toaster pickup. In some applications, such as the 4005, the magnets of the standard toaster were too long to fit under the pickup so shorter magnets were used. Unlike the standard version, the short magnets do not protrude past the base plate of the pickup. I don't know how common the short magnet version is overall. It is possible that other Rickenbacker models had similar clearance requirements so they may not be unique to the 4005.

Scatter Winding Versus Symmetrical Winding
In the early days pickups were often wound by hand in a slow and somewhat random fashion. Mechanical winders were added to speed up the process and make the windings more efficient by laying them down in a precise and orderly pattern. This did speed up production and yield more consistent pickups but players felt that the overall sound of the pickups changed. It is a widely held belief that scatter winding produces a more authentic vintage sound. Modern pickup winders can approximate the random nature of scatter winding while keeping the speed of the mechanized method. This is truly the best of both worlds. I don't know how to tell them apart but apparently some Toaster are scatter wound and others are not.


The 4002
The rarest of all Rickenbacker pickup types is also the least understood. The designers of the 4002 wanted to set off in new directions of bass technology and opted to build a new tone circuit from scratch. Naturally, this decision included an entirely new pickup design. What makes the 4002 pickup so difficult to understand is the fact is is a sealed unit. It may be possible to open one up but I have never had the nerve to give it a try. :) They are more or less irreplaceable so drilling out the rivets will remain out of the question for now.

4002 Tone Circuit
(
pic-10-.jpg
The pickups are described by Rickenbacker as being super hi-gain humbuckers and may be split coils much like P-bass pickups. More on that later. The treble pickup features bifilar windings with the low impedance coil wound to about 3K ohms. The other coil is wound to about 8.5K ohms. The neck pickup has only the high impedance windings.

Having exactly the same form factor as other Rickenbacker pickups the 4002 pickups differ in outward appearance in there are no visible poles and the tops are covered with Tolex. The bar magnets and bobbins can actually be felt right through the tops. The undersides of the pickups are shielded by machined aluminum covers riveted in place at the corners.

Recently I used a plastic bag of iron filings to determine where the magnetic fields are. I laid the bag over the pickup top and moved around until the iron settled into place around the magnets. To my surprise the patterns in the filings showed not one but two pickups under the Tolex. As near as I can tell there is a pickup for the G and D strings and another for A and E with a gap in between. There is no magnetic field to speak of near the center of the pickup. In fact, if the D string is moved too close to the center of the saddle it more or less disappears. The pickup simply cannot hear it there. I learned this after removing the Badass II I had installed about 30 years ago. I grabbed a bridge out of my parts box that I though was the original and strung it up only to find there was no D string on either pickup! Needless to say I was a little concerned. I found that if I bent the string towards the G string I could hear it just fine. Hmmm. So I went back to the parts box and looked for another bridge. There was one with the D saddle cut way off center to the G side. That was apparently the original. I dropped it in and the D string magically returned. I was thrilled. :) The 4002 pickup would appear to be a side by side humbucker much like a Fender Precision Bass. I could be wrong but the evidence is certainly there.

The sound of the 4002 pickup is very similar to that of a Hi-gain but much clearer and smoother. The focus is the same but does not get lost if a note is bent or the string is hit hard. Of course I have only heard them in conjunction with the 4002 tone circuit which, as you can see above is bit more elaborate than the standard Rickenbacker wire harness. How much of the tone is from the circuit itself I cannot say for sure.




Humbuckers
Rickenbacker introduced the HB1 and HB2 in the early 90's. They are said to be the same pickup in different packages. The HB1 has the standard Rickenbacker form factor and can be used on most Rickenbacker guitars and basses. The HB2 is the longer package found on the 2000 series and the 4004Cii/5.

The sound of an HB is darker and warmer than a Hi-gain. They overdrive nicely and have lots of low-end. Fans of the traditional Rickenbacker sound tend to not like the sound of the HB1s as much. One of my favorite things about my 4001/3s is I can come up an octave out of the pocket do a fill and go back down again and be heard while doing it. The husky tone of the humbuckers makes this less effective to my ear so I have to change my playing style a bit to take advantage of the HB1s strengths. Taken in context the HB1 has a great tone it is just not the same as the other Rickenbacker pickups. Different amp settings (not the ones that work for a 4003) may be required. I have found that a little distortion sounds great with an HB1 or HB2. For those interested in the numbers, typical impedance values are about 7.2K ohms per coil.


HB1s come in both chrome and gold.
pic-11-.jpg
HB2s as installed in a 2030.
pic-12-.jpg
Both models are sealed in resin (epoxy?) and cannot be disassembled without destroying the pickup. In service to the members of this forum I have done just that. The fact is, should they go bad they are pretty much done. So I opened one up (15$ on Ebay) to have a look around. The tops appear to be textured vacuum formed plastic held in place by the bezel. Directly under the top is a block of red resin that flows around and holds the coils in place. The steel blades in the bobbins are attached to a single magnet on the bottom of the pickup. There is a small circuit board under the bobbins where the coil wires terminate. It is a very solid and elegant piece of work that appears to be very durable.
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 6

Post by rickfan60 »

Here is a single bobbin from an HB1
pic-13-.jpg
Many of us are eagerly awaiting the emergence of the HB3 – the redesigned HB for use in the 4004Cii/5. Apparently the prototype exists but has not yet been produced. I hope to be first in line when the 4004Cii/5 returns to production. Of course I won't be alone. ;)
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 6

Post by rickfan60 »

Only a few typos in this one. I promise the next one will be shorter. :)
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johnallg
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 6

Post by johnallg »

Most excellent, Ted, and a topic close to my heart. I would like to add my '93 V63 has a 14k RIHS and the RIHS I got off a '05 or '06(?) C64 is 12.6k.

I also have to say that the background maple in the pictures is real eye candy. :wink:
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 6

Post by antipodean »

Thanks Ted - a great exposition that is easy for a layman such as myself to understand..
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 6

Post by weemac »

I was hoping this would turn up as the anatomy lesson soon!
Another great read Ted!
It's probably worth noting that the HB-1 pickups sound blindingly good when tapped (in neck position)
There is also another bass pickup...
The one from the 3000 and 3001.
Eden.
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wints
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 6

Post by wints »

Great, but simple explanation and photo's Ted. As it should be...
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 6

Post by teeder »

Great job, Ted!

Here's a green hi-gain from '69 to add some visual.
Image
Image
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 6

Post by cjj »

Great article again!

You bring up an interesting idea though. The bag of iron filings and the 4002 pickup to see the magnetic field. It would be interesting to do this with each of the pickups and get pictures of the field patters for comparison...
I have NO idea what to do with those skinny stringed things... I'm just a bass player...
rickfan60
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 6

Post by rickfan60 »

weemac wrote:I was hoping this would turn up as the anatomy lesson soon!
Another great read Ted!
It's probably worth noting that the HB-1 pickups sound blindingly good when tapped (in neck position)
There is also another bass pickup...
The one from the 3000 and 3001.
Eden.

I am focusing on the solid body 4000s in this series but sometimes I have to reference other models and that probably confuses things a bit.
rickfan60
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 6

Post by rickfan60 »

teeder wrote:Great job, Ted!

Here's a green hi-gain from '69 to add some visual.

Great picture Kevin. That is an unpainted transitional Hi-gain with the old-style aluminum base plate. There are certainly not many of those to be found.
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 6

Post by teeder »

Thanks, Ted.

Here's another from '71.
Image
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Re: Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 6

Post by rickfan60 »

Very cool. They must be more common than I thought. :shock:
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