Hi. I'm new here and a new Rick bass owner. I tried a friends and the tone was killer so I bought a 2017 4003s. Lovely Fireglo. These are different animals than other types of basses I'm finding out.
It's tough to get a low action without low E string buzzing (on frets 3 and 5 mainly) and there is some bridge saddle rattle that's taking a bit of time to track down.
But it sounds great. My question is that I find the break angle very shallow (as in not much angle over the saddles) and the action really is fine where it is. Any higher will be starting to feel awkward.
Is this low angle typical? I can't say it's hurting the tone - I'm just used to other bass bridges. This is a crazy bridge design!
Happy New Years!
String break angle over saddles
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
Re: String break angle over saddles
To me the magic of the Ric tone is the fret buzz, that's where the classic Ric tone comes from.
You should be able to get the action quite low, like a very straight neck.
Just check all screws on the bridge to make sure, there really shouldn't be any rattling.
I've not had any issues with the break angle, yes it is less downward pressure than other bridges.
Perhaps you'd be happier with a 3rd party bridge like the Hipshot, some people prefer them.
Back in the day I used to replace the stock bridges with Badass II bridges. Lately I've actually been enjoying
the stock bridge on my '81 4003.
Good luck,
Dirk
You should be able to get the action quite low, like a very straight neck.
Just check all screws on the bridge to make sure, there really shouldn't be any rattling.
I've not had any issues with the break angle, yes it is less downward pressure than other bridges.
Perhaps you'd be happier with a 3rd party bridge like the Hipshot, some people prefer them.
Back in the day I used to replace the stock bridges with Badass II bridges. Lately I've actually been enjoying
the stock bridge on my '81 4003.
Good luck,
Dirk
Re: String break angle over saddles
the low break is normal... same at the nut with those stumpy little tuners posts and no angle on the stock. To boot, the tail of the bridge isn't typically touching the body, and the bridge only rides on 2 little screws that don't thread into the body and sit above a void in the body.
While a lot of folks feel these are 'problems', it seems interesting to me that the RIC design appears to be trying to reduce transmission to the body and keep energy in the string, unlike say fenders 5 screws, through body design (or the new RIC bridge or the hipshot for that matter).
The bridge can cause issues if the tail starts lifting up to the point where there is no angle behind the saddle, but the bridge rattle could also be a poorly fitted intonation screw or a saddle sitting high in the slot and wobbling back and forth (if the saddle wobbles, shim the underside or drill out the non threaded side of the intonation screw hole a hair).
While a lot of folks feel these are 'problems', it seems interesting to me that the RIC design appears to be trying to reduce transmission to the body and keep energy in the string, unlike say fenders 5 screws, through body design (or the new RIC bridge or the hipshot for that matter).
The bridge can cause issues if the tail starts lifting up to the point where there is no angle behind the saddle, but the bridge rattle could also be a poorly fitted intonation screw or a saddle sitting high in the slot and wobbling back and forth (if the saddle wobbles, shim the underside or drill out the non threaded side of the intonation screw hole a hair).
Re: String break angle over saddles
be careful not to overtighten the screws under the bridge, it can promote taillift by 'folding' the bridge
Re: String break angle over saddles
Well I think the tone results from the design so I don’t want to change the bridge. Maybe Ultralite tuners though- they seem to make any bass feel better.
Thanks for the replies. I can’t wait to take it on a gig.
Thanks for the replies. I can’t wait to take it on a gig.
Re: String break angle over saddles
Hi Robert and welcome to the forum. You might need a setup. The neck may not be totally flat. It is not hard to do and fosters a better understanding of the instrument. Check out this forum Board index ‹ RRF Instructional Forums ‹ Joey and Jangle. Fourmite Joey did some great videos as to how to do it all. Also let me repeat - DON'T tighten the screws under the bridge. There is a small space there (some of us have filled the gap with washers) and tightening can start the tail lift. One more thought, the kind of strings can make a difference here. You might consider using flats - could require a setup.
The only thing we can perceive are our perceptions - George Berkeley
Re: String break angle over saddles
Well I have heard people talk about Rick's being able to play well with straight or nearly straight necks. This seems odd to me since most guitars and basses require at least a bit of relief to keep from serious buzzing and weak tone.
But as I said, the Rick bass is a new animal to me!
But as I said, the Rick bass is a new animal to me!
Re: String break angle over saddles
Having gigged a Rickenbacker bass since 1981, the shallow string angles over the nut to the tuners are part of the deal. Make sure:
1) the nut slots are not worn, have good witness points on the front of the nut, and each slot has a slight back angle of the proper depth and side angle back to each tuning machine.
2) trim the string leaders so you get 2 or 3 good wraps cleanly down the tuning shaft to the ferrule - no overlaps or cross-winding.
3) as set forth above, make sure the neck is absolutely straight, or if you must, lighten the E side truss rod 1/4 turn to get just a hair of relief for the larger excursion of the E string.
4) if you purchased the instrument used, make sure all the frets are level and crowned properly. A main cause of fret rattle is the fret being worn, and the string actually rattling on the next fret, which became more common years ago when many players went from the OEM nickel flats of yore to Rotosound and other stainless steel rounds, which act like files on the older relatively soft Rickenbacker frets. Newer instruments have a harder fret wire and come with nickel plated rounds, so this is not a problem.
5) assure the saddles are seated in the bridge bar properly and the bridge bar seated in the bridge frame properly.
1) the nut slots are not worn, have good witness points on the front of the nut, and each slot has a slight back angle of the proper depth and side angle back to each tuning machine.
2) trim the string leaders so you get 2 or 3 good wraps cleanly down the tuning shaft to the ferrule - no overlaps or cross-winding.
3) as set forth above, make sure the neck is absolutely straight, or if you must, lighten the E side truss rod 1/4 turn to get just a hair of relief for the larger excursion of the E string.
4) if you purchased the instrument used, make sure all the frets are level and crowned properly. A main cause of fret rattle is the fret being worn, and the string actually rattling on the next fret, which became more common years ago when many players went from the OEM nickel flats of yore to Rotosound and other stainless steel rounds, which act like files on the older relatively soft Rickenbacker frets. Newer instruments have a harder fret wire and come with nickel plated rounds, so this is not a problem.
5) assure the saddles are seated in the bridge bar properly and the bridge bar seated in the bridge frame properly.
Re: String break angle over saddles
That’s a great check list. Thanks!