Rickenbacher B6 re-wire/Bakelite drilling question
Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 12:16 am
I spent a couple hours this morining rewiring the pre-war B6 Bakelite I posted a previous thread about. The link to the wiring diagram that Richard provided was most helpful. It was gratifying to button up the B6, plug it in and have it work properly after being decommisioned for 20 something years. I put a set of the pricey vintage oval nickle button Waverlys on the B6, they look great and have a nice smooth, but tight action, The posts fit perfectly, but I only was able to mount them with one screw apiece as the second one doesn't line up; it's off by a gnat's hair. I'm debating whether to leave them alone with one screw, or do some research on how to drill Bakelite. I understand the earlier formula is the brittle one compared to the "War" period models. I tried the vintage strip replacement set that Richard sent a link to in my previous post. I got a set from Don Young, when they first came out, and I suppose the Stew-Mac ones are the same, anyway the posts fit perfectly, but the four mounting screws don't align with the holes on the strip tuner. I ended up liking the nickle button look of the Waverlys.
The other comment I have is regarding the taper on the Tone control pot. Both Potentiometers look like they're period Allen Bradleys, with '36 manufacturer's date code, As i turn the control knob counter-clockwise to diminish Treble, it seems like it cuts off at the very end ot the taper. The Treble is definitely there, but I'm curious about the pot's taper. The re-wire diagrams call for a 250K and 500K pot; I used the original pots as my intention was to restore the instrument. Does anyone know if the old dried up original Capacitor has an affect on this, maybe it would improve with a new cap.
Anyway, Thanks for the help on the re-wire and tuners, If anyone can advise on drilling Bakelite so I can mount/thread the second tuner screws, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks!
Rob
The other comment I have is regarding the taper on the Tone control pot. Both Potentiometers look like they're period Allen Bradleys, with '36 manufacturer's date code, As i turn the control knob counter-clockwise to diminish Treble, it seems like it cuts off at the very end ot the taper. The Treble is definitely there, but I'm curious about the pot's taper. The re-wire diagrams call for a 250K and 500K pot; I used the original pots as my intention was to restore the instrument. Does anyone know if the old dried up original Capacitor has an affect on this, maybe it would improve with a new cap.
Anyway, Thanks for the help on the re-wire and tuners, If anyone can advise on drilling Bakelite so I can mount/thread the second tuner screws, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks!
Rob