325v59 spare parts

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325v59 spare parts

Postby (helluin75) » Thu Mar 25, 2021 6:52 am

hi, guys. New owner of a beautiful 325v59 here.

the guitar is really "new", no scratches at all and it looks beautiful.

However, the previous owner literally destroyed a screw of the saddle bridge cover and I am unable to remove it (just for cleaning and oiling purposes). Moreover, saddle of E low string is impossible to move.

additionally, all the machine heads seems loosing tuning a bit after a few songs (yes, I've installed a short scale 0.12 flatwound set) and without strings are very unstable (they move a lot).

having said that, which machine heads I should order to avoid additional holes (grove deluxe, Klusons, Gotoh)? I would prefer a straight replacement. Mines are "Ric Deluxe", I presume Klusons.
Where and which roller bridge I should buy? Mastery or a general rick's replacement?

Any suggestions about EU websites?

Thank you so much in advance!
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Re: 325v59 spare parts

Postby (collin) » Thu Mar 25, 2021 3:13 pm

Hi Alessandro, welcome.

1.) Are you saying that somebody stripped one of the two mounting screws for the bridge cover, so you can't remove it? You might be able to remove the strings, flip the bridge over and work the screw out from the backside, or loosen it on the top with pliers enough to remove that screw.

2.) Usually the RIC Deluxe tuning keys are pretty good (they are Kluson type tuners made for Rickenbacker by either Gotoh or Schaller, I can't recall), so I'm surprised to hear you are having issues. If you don't want to use RIC tuners, then I suggest a set of Gotoh brand tuners that fit the same footprint. The Gotoh are made in Japan and high quality. Grover Deluxe tuners are fairly good (they are also a Kluson copy), but hard to find without the "safety tip" where the winding post is open on one end to accept the end of the string. Those were only used on Fender and Mosrite instruments, Rickenbacker were always closed.

Many of the other aftermarket tuners require a 3/8" mounting hole (which is larger than the stock 5/16" size for RIC tuners), so that rules out most other Grover and Schaller Deluxe tuners.

3.) I am a big fan of the Mastery M-5 bridge. If you want playability above anything, including aesthetics, then the Mastery is hard to beat. It's a more effective bridge for vibratos than a roller bridge, and it also adds sustain and brightness to the sound, in my experience. They are made in small quantities and can be hard to find, but worth the pursuit to get one.


Hope that all helps!
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Re: 325v59 spare parts

Postby (jdogric12) » Thu Mar 25, 2021 3:30 pm

OP - did you stretch the strings good? Have you eliminated the potential issue of strings binding in the nut?

And what are you "oiling?" I wouldn't go using anything other than a good clean cotton acid-free cloth to polish it. If there is gunk, you could dampen a cloth a little bit if needed, but a lot of the standard products that are sold over the counter in mass quantity are completely unnecessary on a Rick and could even do more harm than good if there is a bad reaction. A little Swirl-X and Zymol or Turtle Wax would be good if that's what RIC still recommends for shining up the finish.
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Re: 325v59 spare parts

Postby (maxwell) » Thu Mar 25, 2021 4:09 pm

helluin75 -

Tuners: There is a screw on the back of the tuner. Have you tried to tighten it/them at all? I'm not sure if this will improve things, but other style tuners--with the screw on the side of the tuning key--can be tightened. You can carefully try this using a well-made, well-fitting screwdriver.

Roller bridge: I have one that I could barely turn a couple of screws on. Yeah, like collin said, maybe take one screw off the bridge cover and then rotate the cover around to allow the bridge to come (fall) out/off. Of course, the strings will have to come off first. Holding the bridge in your hand will be an advantage. Remove the lock nuts at the ends of the bolts. With a good / properly sized screwdriver, you will be able to slowly turn the adjustment bolts (screws). I discovered that my saddle adjustment bolts (screws) were so tight because the three holes the adjustment bolt has to go through were not in a straight line: hole in front of bridge frame, then through the threaded hole of the roller saddle, then through the hole in the back of the frame. There's no problem with the front frame hole and then threading the bolt through the saddle hole. Screw it in far enough any you can see that its end doesn't line up well with the rear frame hole. When the bridge was assembled, the bolt had to be flexed in order for it to go through the last hole, which creates a lot of force/pressure on the adjustment bolt (screw)/saddle assembly that makes it hard to turn. (So, when those tight bolts are turned/loosened, as soon as the ends clear that rear frame hole, the bolts will suddenly become "loose" and very easy to turn. Actually, if there's at least an eighth inch space between a saddle and the front of the frame, you can tap the bolt ends through those holes in the rear of the frame.) My solution was to enlarge those rear frame holes (at the top edge of the holes) to allow the bolts to passively slide in. (If any bolts/screws are permanently bent, you'll have to buy new ones.) Those lock nuts are more trouble than they're worth. It's better to buy some springs for RIC's standard bridge (one small spring for each saddle) and put your roller bridge back together like the regular/standard bridge is assembled. This will keep everything in place. You can still put the lock nuts back on (loosely) for looks, if you wanted.... Then hope that you don't have roller buzz after all that work....

If you want different bridge, then go ahead and get the Mastery M5. Not cheap, but I also feel it would be a superior choice. However, if you don't have the money, or if you want a Lennon style bridge/guitar, get a Sorkin Bowtie bridge (the one that accommodates a wound third/G string ) (And then get the same style volume & tone knobs that Lennon used and then you'll be all set).

Anyway, like collin said, those M5 bridges aren't often available. Today is the first day I've seen them in stock for the longest while. So, you better order one soon if that's your decision. The covers for this bridge are not in stock right now, however...

BTW, the M5 is not a roller bridge, but don't let that stop you from getting one. Good info here, incl. the correct sizing of Allen wrenches you'd need:

https://masterybridge.com/specs/
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Re: 325v59 spare parts

Postby (collin) » Thu Mar 25, 2021 6:47 pm

maxwell wrote:
Anyway, like collin said, those M5 bridges aren't often available. Today is the first day I've seen them in stock for the longest while. So, you better order one soon if that's your decision. The covers for this bridge are not in stock right now, however...

BTW, the M5 is not a roller bridge, but don't let that stop you from getting one. Good info here, incl. the correct sizing of Allen wrenches you'd need:

https://masterybridge.com/specs/



I should point out here that a rolling bridge saddle does not equate to superior vibrato performance and tuning stability. The rollers in a roller bridge are nothing more than the ball end of a guitar string with a pin running through them. They get dirt on the pin, preventing the rolling from spinning and then it's totally pointless. They are more for historical accuracy than performance.

The Mastery bridge has rounded saddles, there are no sharp points to "catch" the string when using a vibrato, so tuning stability is improved. And because the saddles are fixed, and the bridge screws are set into the bridge plate (with little allen screws) the sustain is greatly improved with the Mastery. I have never met somebody who wasn't impressed with the performance a Mastery bridge added to their guitar. I only wish they made a 12-string version!
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Re: 325v59 spare parts

Postby (helluin75) » Fri Mar 26, 2021 5:07 am

maxwell wrote:helluin75 -

Tuners: There is a screw on the back of the tuner. Have you tried to tighten it/them at all? I'm not sure if this will improve things, but other style tuners--with the screw on the side of the tuning key--can be tightened. You can carefully try this using a well-made, well-fitting screwdriver.

Roller bridge: I have one that I could barely turn a couple of screws on. Yeah, like collin said, maybe take one screw off the bridge cover and then rotate the cover around to allow the bridge to come (fall) out/off. Of course, the strings will have to come off first. Holding the bridge in your hand will be an advantage. Remove the lock nuts at the ends of the bolts. With a good / properly sized screwdriver, you will be able to slowly turn the adjustment bolts (screws). I discovered that my saddle adjustment bolts (screws) were so tight because the three holes the adjustment bolt has to go through were not in a straight line: hole in front of bridge frame, then through the threaded hole of the roller saddle, then through the hole in the back of the frame. There's no problem with the front frame hole and then threading the bolt through the saddle hole. Screw it in far enough any you can see that its end doesn't line up well with the rear frame hole. When the bridge was assembled, the bolt had to be flexed in order for it to go through the last hole, which creates a lot of force/pressure on the adjustment bolt (screw)/saddle assembly that makes it hard to turn. (So, when those tight bolts are turned/loosened, as soon as the ends clear that rear frame hole, the bolts will suddenly become "loose" and very easy to turn. Actually, if there's at least an eighth inch space between a saddle and the front of the frame, you can tap the bolt ends through those holes in the rear of the frame.) My solution was to enlarge those rear frame holes (at the top edge of the holes) to allow the bolts to passively slide in. (If any bolts/screws are permanently bent, you'll have to buy new ones.) Those lock nuts are more trouble than they're worth. It's better to buy some springs for RIC's standard bridge (one small spring for each saddle) and put your roller bridge back together like the regular/standard bridge is assembled. This will keep everything in place. You can still put the lock nuts back on (loosely) for looks, if you wanted.... Then hope that you don't have roller buzz after all that work....

If you want different bridge, then go ahead and get the Mastery M5. Not cheap, but I also feel it would be a superior choice. However, if you don't have the money, or if you want a Lennon style bridge/guitar, get a Sorkin Bowtie bridge (the one that accommodates a wound third/G string ) (And then get the same style volume & tone knobs that Lennon used and then you'll be all set).

Anyway, like collin said, those M5 bridges aren't often available. Today is the first day I've seen them in stock for the longest while. So, you better order one soon if that's your decision. The covers for this bridge are not in stock right now, however...

BTW, the M5 is not a roller bridge, but don't let that stop you from getting one. Good info here, incl. the correct sizing of Allen wrenches you'd need:

https://masterybridge.com/specs/


first of all, thanks everyone.

Re the rolling bridge I will try as suggested. When I will change the strings I will move remove the first screw from the cover and will try to rotate the latter.

About the Sorkin Bowtie, is it a bridge that doesn't have string slots cut into it? I mean the strings remains in position due to the pressure on it only? Moreover, you should need a set with a wound G string (rick .012 set should works)?

FInally re the turners I saw a video about a restored v59 (backbeat channel). He highlighted the same loosen issue I have and he changed all of them.
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Re: 325v59 spare parts

Postby (maxwell) » Fri Mar 26, 2021 8:38 am

Just an extra cautionary note: Your roller bridge is held in place by string pressure. It is not attached by screws to the bridge plate. So be just a little careful so it/you don’t scratch up your guitar’s finish.

Tuners... I’d be curious if you can turn those screws, and the effect if you can... just a little. It's about the easiest thing to do.

Sorkin Bowtie bridge: I guess some guys cut string slots in the saddle part of the bridge assembly.... may be debatable. Try without slots first.

* * * Read this forum post and the input by iiipopes. Very informative:

http://www.rickenbacker.com/forum/viewt ... a1&start=0

You can buy the bridge from several shops. Here's one:

https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products ... e-assembly

After reading iiipopes info, you can easily verify (by looking at photos) that you are buying the proper/compensated bridge. BTW, the saddle portion of that bridge is replaceable -- that dealer sells replacement saddles, should you booger one up (adjusting the radius and/or cutting slots, both optional procedures that I personally would not opt to do). If you really look around, you can find an uncompensated saddle for a plain G string. If you read the RIC forum post, however, you'll see that guys feel that the compensated bridge saddle works OK with either string set (G - wound or plain).

This Bowtie another bridge that simply sits in place (not attached), and you have to move it around as you tune your guitar. Getting the E and e strings simultaneously in tune may be the best you can do. (A PITA, yes? I bet that Mastery M5 bridge is looking better all the time. :wink: )
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Re: 325v59 spare parts

Postby (helluin75) » Fri Mar 26, 2021 1:00 pm

Hi Maxwell, thank you for your comments.

Re the tuners, unfortunately I can't do anything. The deluxe tuners are fully closed on the back and you cannot turns internal screws.

i've found the bowtie in Europe on https://www.rickysounds.co.uk/ together with the rick's strings 0.12 and G-wound.
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Re: 325v59 spare parts

Postby (maxwell) » Fri Mar 26, 2021 4:49 pm

Sorry, I thought the tuners were open back Grovers....
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Re: 325v59 spare parts

Postby (helluin75) » Mon Apr 12, 2021 11:18 am

hi everyone, i've received the sirkin bowtie bridge together with the rick's strings (0.12) and the guitar is perfectly in tune.

Thank you very much for your suggestions.
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Re: 325v59 spare parts

Postby (maxwell) » Mon Apr 12, 2021 2:44 pm

Good to hear. What did you do about the tuners?
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Re: 325v59 spare parts

Postby (helluin75) » Tue Apr 13, 2021 9:37 am

I want to see how it works with the new bridge. I stretched well the new strings. they seems pretty consistent in terms of tuning even with bending. I will keep it monitored and in case I will order new tuners.
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