What Makes a Lennonized Model 325?

The short-scale model that changed history

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What Makes a Lennonized Model 325?

Postby (admin) » Thu Mar 08, 2001 2:29 pm

I am wondering just what it takes to make a Lennonized Model 325. Perhaps the "ideal" before the new "C" Series was Tuck Hersey's Lennonized Rickenbacker 325. Maybe it still is. The C Series will be the ultimate (alder details included) but it is amazing to see the state of the art control knobs,Bigsy, longer jackplate, shaved headstock, gold guard, vintage pups and so on. The research that it has taken to replicate Lennon's model has been exciting, to say the least.
Life, as with music, often requires one to let go of the melody and listen to the rhythm

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Postby (glen_l) » Fri Apr 06, 2001 2:17 am

I think that the construction timber (alder) and the weight are the big issues now. Since it has become common knowledge that real '58 325's only weigh 5lbs it has drawn a line between the Lennonised V59's and the new C58's for me.
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Postby (admin) » Fri Apr 06, 2001 6:28 am

Yes I agree Glen. Nonetheless, I we can't forget that 1964 model Lennon sported was heavier but still famous! I wonder, has anyone actually weighed John Lennon's 1958 Model 325?
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Postby (leftybass) » Fri Apr 06, 2001 9:01 am

Peter, I played a '60 310 recently and it is without doubt the lightest guitar I have ever held..so much sound out of hardly anything....maybe 4-5 lbs....
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Postby (rick12dr) » Fri Apr 06, 2001 12:55 pm

But a 310 from '60 would be maple, correct?And it's going to be lighter than a 325 anyway, since it has 1 less PU and no vibrato.And, the body should be a bit thinner.
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Postby (glen_l) » Fri Apr 06, 2001 2:33 pm

Yes the '64 325 would have been heavier than the '58. I can't say how much because the very first 325's from '64 weren't quiet the same as the subsequent ones.

According to some info I've seen it wasn't until mid '64 that Ric stopped playing about with the configuration. The first 325's had smaller headstocks than the originals, but not as slim as the mid '64 onward ones. There is also that question of neck volute, and the rounded heel.


And then if they did use leftover bodies from '58-'60 for the first couple of months of production in 1964, perhaps that means that these 2 o'clock 325's are lighter than the later ones? It involves the amount of routing they used on the earlier bodies. As well as that fragile 1/8" ply back. I wonder does anyone know if the '64 2 o'clock bodies are maple or alder? Very difficult to tell, seeing as they were all seem to have been finished fireglo.
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Postby (rick12dr) » Fri Apr 06, 2001 6:57 pm

Are you sure the plywoood backs on these are 1/8"
thick? This is the same thickness as Rick pickguards.I do know that I found out when renecking an old '59-'60 Capri/365 , that the back was plywood[a revelation for me at the time]but it was closer to 1/4" thick.I suppose this back material could have varied in thickness.
I'd be Real interested to know from guys with 50s 325s or 310s how "flat" or "level" the backs of the instruments are when guaged with a straightedge.Anyone care to get out their rulers and take a measurement, side to side and end to end, and get back to us?I know if you do this with old 360-12s, you will usually be shocked, and will see why your guitar has a "neck set"
problem.
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Postby (admin) » Wed Apr 11, 2001 3:50 pm

Glen and Dr. I am wondering which 325 Model from the C series will be most popular. Will folks mainly want to show off the alder and then add the knobs and vibrato from there or will the black finish be the most sought after and most modified? What do you think?
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Postby (rick12dr) » Wed Apr 11, 2001 4:36 pm

IF I had the bucks, I'd buy both.But I'd more likely buy the Jetglo one and mod it w/ burns knobs, dadada...I'm actually more inclined to get the 360-12C64.I personally don't like those little Ricks.But only cause they're little.
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Postby (glen_l) » Thu Apr 12, 2001 1:13 am

I have a real interest in a natural Alder finish 325C58. For me it's the one because it is a stock finish for 1958. I don't think I would fit a Bigsby because of the drilling issue. I may consider a set of the alternative Ric knobs from that era though. I always liked the look of the plain silvery knobs on many of the real '58 325's.
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Postby (admin) » Thu Apr 12, 2001 6:54 am

Glen: It is a bit of a bravery test drilling holes in your Rickenbacker, but it would seem that if you are changing knobs the Bigsby might be the way to go to finish the look. Easy for me to say as I will not be able to afford one.
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Postby (glen_l) » Thu Apr 12, 2001 8:33 pm

I doubt that I'll afford one either Peter.

The knob change I suggested isn't a Lennon mod actually, the plain silvery round ones were alternative factory fitted knobs on many of the original Capri's.

I also thought about the possibility of making a replacement gold lucite plate and converting to a really original 2 control, 1 switch format. I would be concerned about losing control of the balance between the treble and bass pickups though. I believe it's really needed for functionality, especially with the treble cap fitted, as it should be.

If it was for display only I would likely do it though.

I agree with your other point too Peter. No use doing a partial Lennon conversion.
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