Set up problems

[(BuddyDog)]

I changed the strings on my 360/6 last weekend and decided I would check the truss rods and adjust intonation, too.

I was noticing some metal buzzing sound from what I thought was the bridge cover or pick-up mounts, so I wanted to see if I could pinpoint it.

Changing the strings went fairly well. This was the first time I tried stringing the R tailpiece (or any suspension type tailpiece) and that wasn't too hard.

I measure the relief with a capo on the first fret and fretting the strings at the 24th fret (using feeler gauges). The Bass side is fine and maybe the treble side could be lowered a touch, so I remove the TRC, and pull out my handy Xcelite long shaft nut driver. I cannot get the driver to fit on the treble side nut. It looks like the driver head needs to be smaller, but I don't have a grinder, so that's a no go. I look at the Bass nut and it is so loose I can turn it with fingers to meet the washer.

O.K. I can probably live with the treble side a touch high, so time to check intonation. All the strings seem to be a little sharp. I use the allen wrench and for Pete's sake almost none of the saddles screws will turn.

What am I doing wrong?

FWIW, it seems the buzzing went away, but I have no idea what changed. I did use a little Graph-it-all on the saddles and nut.

[(beatlefreak)]

The buzzing or rattle was most likely caused by the loose truss rod nut. Snug it up to prevent future rattles. The other truss rod nut could be arefully and gently bent upward using a screwdriver. Search for other threads for more information on this before attempting it.

I've never heard of intonation screws that won't turn, unless they;re already at the limit of their travel. Move the string off to the side of the saddle you want to adjust. The RIC bridge is machined to tight tolerances - It may take a little effort to turn the screws, but don't force it.

[(BuddyDog)]

Thanks, Kris!

Once I snugged the truss nut down, I thought that must have been the source of the rattle.

I may try intonation again once I move the string off the saddle. I had them plenty loose when I was trying to turn the screw on the saddle, but still no go.

I was surprised the saddles seemed to have a fairly rough/matte finish. I would have thought they'd be polished.

[(jingle_jangle)]

Thanks, Kris!

Once I snugged the truss nut down, I thought that must have been the source of the rattle.

I may try intonation again once I move the string off the saddle. I had them plenty loose when I was trying to turn the screw on the saddle, but still no go.

I was surprised the saddles seemed to have a fairly rough/matte finish. I would have thought they'd be polished.

They are mill finish alloy. No need to polish them, although I know some luthiers do it to "pack" their bills...improves the look (in some folks' opinion), but does nothing for the sound. I personally like the hand-wrought look of the stock ones, as they provide a good counterpoint to the jewelry-quality plating on the tailpiece, if the bridge cover is left off.

[(BuddyDog)]

Thanks, Paul W.!

As long as the notch in the saddle is nice and smooth, I'm happy. I don't like having a string eating burr in the saddle.

[(beatlefreak)]

I don't know of anybody that likes a burr in their saddle...

[(grazioso)]

drop of wd40 on each saddle adjusting screw with toothpick or q-tip..

[(BuddyDog)]

drop of wd40 on each saddle adjusting screw with toothpick or q-tip..

Thanks, Dusan!

I might try a whisper of 3in1 oil.

[(RonLovesRic12strings)]

I concur with Kris Lyons. Also, sometimes adjacent saddles bind against each other, which makes it hard to move the saddles. If this happens, take a screw driver and push against the broadside of the saddle in the direction you're trying to move the saddle. This should release any binding that can occur on adjacent saddles. Now place the allen wrench in the saddle screw and turn.....You should now see the saddle move. Hope this helps.