Another high gain to toaster question

[(Kyle)]

I have ordered a new Toaster pickup, which I intend on putting in my 360/12 bridge position.

I never use the neck position often, so am thinking of putting a toaster cover on the high gain and leaving it.

I have read a lot of the advice on here, but am puzzled on one thing: once the pole pieces have modified, can the mod be reversed? As in, is that the pickup done and can't be used with the high gain cover again?

My problem is I haven't looked at the pickup underneath. Do the pole pieces on the top get removed, or is it just from the bottom that they need to be cut?

As you can see, any help appreciated, total noob at this.

[(rickendelic)]

It depends on the type of high gain you have. If you have a modern high gain which uses an Allen wrench to adjust the height of the poles, then you can take the poles out and put them back no problem. Any mods to the earlier high gains I believe are, let's say, slightly more permanent.

Have you seen this link

viewtopic.php?t=379251#p402948

[(Kyle)]

It is the new high gains I have.

I take it then that there are 2 sides to the pole piece? A head on each side of the pickup that comes out with an allen key?

[(jdawe)]

I take it then that there are 2 sides to the pole piece? A head on each side of the pickup that comes out with an allen key?

I'm not sure what you mean. The new Hi-Gains poles are threaded and have allen key slots in the top of the pole pieces. This allows the poles to be screwed out and replaced by headless screws with the same thread that will fit under a toaster cover.

[(Kyle)]

Ok, so if I wanted to go back to high gain cover and not the toaster cover, I would'nt have the heads on the pole pieces anymore? Meaning the high gain wouldnt look the same because the heads that have the allen key holes have been removed?

[(jdawe)]

I've never done this myself, but IIRC from the earlier thread the usual approach is to unscrew the pole pieces, buy some bolts with the same diameter and thread from a hardware store, saw the heads of these bolts and cut slots in the top (or buy headless bolts if you can find them), then screw these replacements into the pickup in place of the original pole pieces, which you save with their heads intact. If you ever want to go back to the original cover, you can then just take the replacement bolts out and put the original pole pieces back in.

[(8mileshigher)]

Jonathan
When I converted the Neck and Middle pickups on my 370 WB, I used new style (issued after 2006 High Gains) and inserted 3/8 inch screws (countersink them) to substitute for the removed pole pieces. The screws can't be longer or the screw will damage the ceramic magnet underneath ... the downward pressure of a too long screw will crack it or dislodge it. Once the top of the pickup is "flat" with the coutnersunk screws, the Toaster covers fit easily and you are in business.

Here's a picture Ken J took, of the counter-sunk holes and a couple of the screws, when he Toasterized his High Gains. I found his and other Forum members info very helpful for the project. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=379251&start=0&hilit=remove+pole+pieces

Countersunk holes and small 3/8 inch screws to substitute for the pole pieces

IMG_0834.JPG (11.48 KiB) Viewed 6605 times

Here's my 370 WB with the Toasterized High Gains in the Neck and Middle pickup positions and I put a HB1 in the Bridge, a little like the Hoffs model pickup configuration.

[(Kyle)]

Every thread I have seen so far has the person cutting the standard pole pieces, which Is why I have asked. I would rather get some replacements so I could put the old pole pieces back if I wanted.

What diamater (metric size), and length would I need for new screws to work?

[(ken_j)]

Every thread I have seen so far has the person cutting the standard pole pieces, which Is why I have asked. I would rather get some replacements so I could put the old pole pieces back if I wanted.

What diamater (metric size), and length would I need for new screws to work?

Not metric SAE. The screw size is #8-32 length is 0.400". If you want a screw without a head use a set screw. This will result in a tighter magnetic focus and may not have optimal performance when string bending. I have not found a source for screws this length but uses a 1/2" (0.500") length and grind them to size in a fixture that I have fabricated.

The new style adjustable high gains use a button head screw for the polepieces (stock from the factory). The older style (post '90) used a pushpin type rivit.

[(rickendelic)]

If you want to cut the tops off and have an extra set, the rickenbacker boutique sells them Part Number 05308 I believe. Otherwise just pickup some set screws as Ken_j suggested.

[(Kyle)]

Would these work?

http://www.aseriesspares.co.uk/fastener ... ml?added=1

In the #8 - 32 UNC x 5/8 Inch size?

[(Kyle)]

If you want to cut the tops off and have an extra set, the rickenbacker boutique sells them Part Number 05308 I believe. Otherwise just pickup some set screws as Ken_j suggested.

I tried that, went all the way to the checkout, and they dont ship to the UK

[(jdawe)]

If you want a screw without a head use a set screw. This will result in a tighter magnetic focus and may not have optimal performance when string bending.

Good point, but this may not be a big issue for Kyle because he's modding a 12 and may not do a lot of bending.

[(ken_j)]

Would these work?

http://www.aseriesspares.co.uk/fastener ... ml?added=1

In the #8 - 32 UNC x 5/8 Inch size?

They are too long to fit under the covers. If they pass all the way through the magnets they will not conduct the magnetism as well. The sample shown is a grade 12.9. These are very hard and may not do as well as something softer such as 8.8 or grade 2 in US/SAE terminology.

[(8mileshigher)]

Kyle --- the first question is what year are the High Gains you want to modify? The "new" versions referenced with allen srew type removable posts were introduced some time in the 2006 model year (as I have a 2006 330 model which still has the prior type of High Gain posts, the ones where you do not use an allen hex key).

It is these "new" style High Gains where you can do the screw modification as per Ken's picture I posted, just counter sink them. Those are the type I used on my 370 WB. I bought a pair of second-hand "new" High Gains from a Forum member who had the Dealer install Scatterwound Toasters when he got his new Ric, so these were like 2010 or 2011 model years High Gains I used for my 370 WB.

Note they are SAE threaded screws - not metric. My reference is they are 3/8 inch length to compensate for the counter-sinking. The screw type is as Ken indicated, #8-32. These were easy enough screws to get at a local hardware store in the USA .... not sure how easy to get SAE threaded screws in the UK ? Maybe Pick of the Rics dealer (POTR) in New Jersey USA can assist you with these SAE screws since they are not genuine Ric parts, there should not be a restriction on shipping to the UK ?

= = = =

Kyle, if you have a High Gain dating from 2006 or prior years, then you are dealing with the situation of the pole pieces (posts) that Rickendelic and others have written commentary on. Hope this helps clarify. Good luck on your conversion project. Once you put Toaster covers on, you will not want to go back to the old look as Toasters are so cool ! ! !