2 issues regarding '66 360 12 Fireglo purchase

[dnaist]

I'm now a mostly happy Rick owner. However, I have two issues I'd like advice on, please. First, the guitar was marketed as a '65 and when I asked about the S/N, the seller wasn't with the guitar but said it was an E, so '65. It turns out the S/N is FH, so it is clearly an Aug '66 build. So my first question is what I might expect the price difference to be between a '65 and a '66 in otherwise excellent condition. I paid around $5000 (perfect neck and action and original case) but would like to ask for an adjustment based on this false marketing. The second question (2 actually) regards a bent tuning key as seen in the photo. This didn't show up in the ad photos and when I asked about any issues, it wasn't revealed. First, does this devalue the instrument much and second, would you advise repairing it or would you leave it be. Tuning is a little more difficult but it still turn, turn, turns.

[jps]

...So my first question is what I might expect the price difference to be between a '65 and a '66 in otherwise excellent condition. I paid around $5000 (perfect neck and action and original case) but would like to ask for an adjustment based on this false marketing.

No adjustment, the price would have been the same, either way, really. If it were a transition year with many feature changes, then I could see you wanting an adjustment (maybe), but that nots the case here. I wouldn't necessarily consider this false marketing, just a simple mistake that has no bearing on value, here.

[collin]

1.) No, not really. There is a value difference between a '64 306/12 and a '65 but no real difference between 65/66 on an identical guitar. IMO, $5k for a clean '66 with perfect neck angle is a fair price. Return it if the year is an issue, but don't be a picky buyer and ask for an "adjustment"

2.) Bent tuner is an easy fix, I wouldn't hassle the seller too much on this one. If it's a big deal to you, just ask for the $35 it would cost to locate and replace a vintage tuning key. It can possibly be straightened, but there is a risk of breaking it.


Share some more pics!

[jdogric12]

1.) No, not really. There is a value difference between a '64 306/12 and a '65 but no real difference between 65/66 on an identical guitar. IMO, $5k for a clean '66 with perfect neck angle is a fair price. Return it if the year is an issue, but don't be a picky buyer and ask for an "adjustment"

2.) Bent tuner is an easy fix, I wouldn't hassle the seller too much on this one. If it's a big deal to you, just ask for the $35 it would cost to locate and replace a vintage tuning key. It can possibly be straightened, but there is a risk of breaking it.


Share some more pics!

+1

[dnaist]

Thanks for feedback so far. On further study, although the neck is straight and action very low, the bridge is bottomed out and there is sign of the neck lifting at the connection to the body, so the neck is at angle. Of course, this is to be expected given this model and year, I guess. Still, it was billed as "mint" and "museum quality". I try not to be a picky buyer but I do ask questions and don't like to be misled either by intention or by omission, especially by what seems to be a reputable shop. That's not the way I sell.

I want to save the neck from a reset as long as I can. Any experience with Ernie Ball custom gauge 8-40 round wounds? And would you recommend tuning down when putting it away and not playing for awhile?

Also, is it common for "Rick-O-Sound" and "Standard" labels to wear off the jack plate?

[dnaist]

Pics as requested.

[collin]

Ok, now THAT is an issue worth asking for refund or price adjustment. While a bad neck angle is pretty much normal for 12-strings made between 1964-1967, it's still a structural issue that affects the value, and $5k is top dollar. It shouldn't have a bad angle at that price, IMO.

In the meantime, there are a few tricks that can buy you time. The 8-42 strings are a great option and should be standard for anybody with a vintage Rick 12. You can also make a thinner base plate to lower the bridge and cut the grommets in half under the bridge pickup to crank down the pickup as far as possible.

If your bridge is bottomed out but the action is nice and low at the end of the fretboard, you may be fine, but know it could continue to get worse over time.

Detuning between storage sessions isn't a bad idea but don't take all the tension off the strings. Only do a half-step or so.


All that said, the guitar's a beauty, great Fireglo!

[dnaist]

S/N

[jps]

...Also, is it common for "Rick-O-Sound" and "Standard" labels to wear off the jack plate?

Yes, that is very common.