Opinions please...is it better to keep this original or upgrade to the following:
...wider nut
...12 saddle bridge
...reconditioned toasters and electronics
...complete restoration of Mapleglo finish
...etc.
I am conflicted as to the implications of collector value vs. making it play optimally.
Please advise...JJ
Restore or Upgrade 1966 Mapleglo 360/12???
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
JJ: If your goal is to maximize the vintage value of this instrument then the fewer the changes the better. As this is a quality instrument, built to last, I can see no reason why you would want to make changes to the finish, bridge or electronics. I consider that you can achieve "optimal playing" by making a number of strightforward adjustments that won't alter it from stock. First, it must be established that it is a stock instument free of modifications and second its condition should be evaluated. This would be a fun project to do in this topic so why not get some photos of it and send them along. My suggestion would be that you move slowly and methodically in determining its value and changes that you may wish to make.
Life, as with music, often requires one to let go of the melody and listen to the rhythm
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JJ, I am curious to see pics of your 360/12 as well, particularly the nut; if your guitar has its original nut, the possibility may exist that you won't be able to go any wider on the string spacing. Most '60's Rickenbacker 12's have a wider spacing on the strings than their new-made decendants..When you decide to post some pics please include one of the nut if possible.
Peter is right--patience is definitely a virtue in this case, so let us see your baby!!
Peter is right--patience is definitely a virtue in this case, so let us see your baby!!
Since you've asked for opinions, I'll offer the following:
A maple-glo 360/12 isn't going to be desired by a "vintage" collector for any association with anybody "famous". It'd be one thing if you had a fire-glo 64 (a la Harrison) or a maple-glo 370 (a la McGuinn). It is simply an old twelve string that may or may not be anything more to anybody other than an "old, used guitar".
So, I would (personally) clean-up the finish. I wouldn't have it stripped thats for sure. The back would have to be REALLY chewed for me to fool with the finish there, but the back of the neck is another story. I don't personally like the feel of going from a finished area to a raw area.
Finish can be repaired in "spots" but without seeing the condition of the guitar nobody can call it.
I have no problem with the stock nut width and since I've not played one with the MA/modified nut, I can only say that: I can do it myself and don't think its worth the bother.
I've already told you that I swapped both of my six saddle bridges out - in fact, one of them is en-route to you (if you decide to go to a twelve saddle bridge, send my bridge back...).
If the pick-ups work, I'm not sure why you would even consider putting reconditioned ones in or otherwise touching the wires.
A maple-glo 360/12 isn't going to be desired by a "vintage" collector for any association with anybody "famous". It'd be one thing if you had a fire-glo 64 (a la Harrison) or a maple-glo 370 (a la McGuinn). It is simply an old twelve string that may or may not be anything more to anybody other than an "old, used guitar".
So, I would (personally) clean-up the finish. I wouldn't have it stripped thats for sure. The back would have to be REALLY chewed for me to fool with the finish there, but the back of the neck is another story. I don't personally like the feel of going from a finished area to a raw area.
Finish can be repaired in "spots" but without seeing the condition of the guitar nobody can call it.
I have no problem with the stock nut width and since I've not played one with the MA/modified nut, I can only say that: I can do it myself and don't think its worth the bother.
I've already told you that I swapped both of my six saddle bridges out - in fact, one of them is en-route to you (if you decide to go to a twelve saddle bridge, send my bridge back...).
If the pick-ups work, I'm not sure why you would even consider putting reconditioned ones in or otherwise touching the wires.
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jj123
Thanks for the response. I can assure you, I am going to be patient. I have no idea about vintage value and won't make an irreversable move without discussing here first. I really don't know what my goal should be yet until I hear more from you experts. I have been corresponding with Mark Arnquist as well. I hope he posts with his ideas as well. I can tell you I really appreciate your opinions...don't be afraid of telling it like you see it...I am totally open to doing the right thing. If it costs a lot of money...it just might take a little longer!
I will take a series of 35 mm pics in as much detail as possible, get them digitized and post here (if I can find out how to do it).
In the meantime, here are some details in answer to implied questions so far:
Frets...They seem to show the normal wear...more on the treble side. They are flattened but show no string impressions. The fingerboard looks generally good ... shows some scratching but no divots from fingernails. Typical measurements with a dial caliper show the following heights...(Bass--Middle--Treble sides)
Fret #1) .032"--.030--.028
2) .040--.037--.029
3) .030--.030--.022
4) .033--.031--.024
These measurements are difficult insofar as keeping the edge of the depth rod perpendicular with the fretboard...consider them ballpark.
Nut...It is white in color and measures 1.615". I can't identify the material but it seems quite hard. There are very faint lines that have cold flowed into the groove from the low E string after over 30 years of tension.
Finish...the back is ugly...chipped, pitted and scraped with a 3"x6" oval section that is worn down to bare wood. The front, by comparison, is in remarkably good condition. The "R" tail piece has chrome chipped off the bottom near the strap button.
Neck...as described earlier. it is chipped and pitted in about 20 places. Average pit size is about 1/8". They are down to bare wood in some places. It appears to be quite straight and has no delamination or separation anywhere.
Pickups...they are the original toasters with 6 rubber grommets at the base of each. I don't know if they work yet. Electronics include 2 dark blue capacitors and an aqua-colored mini cap. Control knobs are black plastic with circular silver-colored discs in the center of each labeled "tone" and "volume". Smaller 5th knob has no graphics.
Bridge...is a 6 saddle with grommets on the adjusting screws...intonation screws are 6 slotted round head machine screws with no springs. Gary Smith was unbelievably generous to send me an updated 6 saddle bribdge...thanks, Gary!
Hope to have pics posted this week...JJ
I will take a series of 35 mm pics in as much detail as possible, get them digitized and post here (if I can find out how to do it).
In the meantime, here are some details in answer to implied questions so far:
Frets...They seem to show the normal wear...more on the treble side. They are flattened but show no string impressions. The fingerboard looks generally good ... shows some scratching but no divots from fingernails. Typical measurements with a dial caliper show the following heights...(Bass--Middle--Treble sides)
Fret #1) .032"--.030--.028
2) .040--.037--.029
3) .030--.030--.022
4) .033--.031--.024
These measurements are difficult insofar as keeping the edge of the depth rod perpendicular with the fretboard...consider them ballpark.
Nut...It is white in color and measures 1.615". I can't identify the material but it seems quite hard. There are very faint lines that have cold flowed into the groove from the low E string after over 30 years of tension.
Finish...the back is ugly...chipped, pitted and scraped with a 3"x6" oval section that is worn down to bare wood. The front, by comparison, is in remarkably good condition. The "R" tail piece has chrome chipped off the bottom near the strap button.
Neck...as described earlier. it is chipped and pitted in about 20 places. Average pit size is about 1/8". They are down to bare wood in some places. It appears to be quite straight and has no delamination or separation anywhere.
Pickups...they are the original toasters with 6 rubber grommets at the base of each. I don't know if they work yet. Electronics include 2 dark blue capacitors and an aqua-colored mini cap. Control knobs are black plastic with circular silver-colored discs in the center of each labeled "tone" and "volume". Smaller 5th knob has no graphics.
Bridge...is a 6 saddle with grommets on the adjusting screws...intonation screws are 6 slotted round head machine screws with no springs. Gary Smith was unbelievably generous to send me an updated 6 saddle bribdge...thanks, Gary!
Hope to have pics posted this week...JJ
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jj123
***********Update on the Project************
I received the new 6 saddle bridge from Gary Smith...what a great guy...thanks Gary!
It is pristine compared to the ugly original. So I removed the original only to find that the bottom of new one's adjustment screws don't line up with the indentations on the base plate...it's always something!
I'm considering the following:
...call Mike Parks in the morning to see if I can get a modern plate that fits the bridge. Does Rickenbacker follow specs or are the plates and bridges tailored for each other at the time of manufacture?
...turn over the existing plate and set the new bridge on the flat surface (Gary's suggestion). Any problems with this...will the vertical forces keep it in place without indentations? Obviously, indentations would seem to be more fail-safe but I was wondering if anyone has done this before.
...drill my own indentations in the flat side of the plate
I'm getting seduced by this guitar more each day! Still looking for a Ric luthier in Northern Indiana...any recommendations?...JJ
I received the new 6 saddle bridge from Gary Smith...what a great guy...thanks Gary!
It is pristine compared to the ugly original. So I removed the original only to find that the bottom of new one's adjustment screws don't line up with the indentations on the base plate...it's always something!
I'm considering the following:
...call Mike Parks in the morning to see if I can get a modern plate that fits the bridge. Does Rickenbacker follow specs or are the plates and bridges tailored for each other at the time of manufacture?
...turn over the existing plate and set the new bridge on the flat surface (Gary's suggestion). Any problems with this...will the vertical forces keep it in place without indentations? Obviously, indentations would seem to be more fail-safe but I was wondering if anyone has done this before.
...drill my own indentations in the flat side of the plate
I'm getting seduced by this guitar more each day! Still looking for a Ric luthier in Northern Indiana...any recommendations?...JJ