Don,
I recently purchased a new Firebird V Historic. Wonderful guitar but it wont stay in tune. I use Dean Markley Blue Steel 10's and have tried pencil lead but it still goes sharp.
Any thoughts,
Rick Doeschler
Staying in tune problem
Moderator: jingle_jangle
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sneakers
Make sure that everything is tight; bridge parts, tailpiece, etc. I could be the tuners that are slipping. Are the chords/notes in tune in some area of the neck and not in others? If so, it could need to be set up. I guess I'd like to hear some more specifics regarding the problem. What are you tuning is with? Do the strings noticibly slip while you're playing it?
Sneakers: I agree. Clarification is needed with regard to this problem.
Rick: Starting with the instrument in turn, do open strings on the instrument go sharp after you begin playing it and if so which ones?
Rick: Starting with the instrument in turn, do open strings on the instrument go sharp after you begin playing it and if so which ones?
Life, as with music, often requires one to let go of the melody and listen to the rhythm
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rick_doeschler
Thank you for the responses.
I tune to a Sabine STX-1100 tuner. It does intonate at the twelfth fret on all strings. When properly tuned all of the strings go a bit sharpe after playing for a while. There are places on the fret board around the third fret that are usually shape pitched, still properly intonated at the twelfth fret.
Would a new bone nut be the best solution?
Rick Doeschler
I tune to a Sabine STX-1100 tuner. It does intonate at the twelfth fret on all strings. When properly tuned all of the strings go a bit sharpe after playing for a while. There are places on the fret board around the third fret that are usually shape pitched, still properly intonated at the twelfth fret.
Would a new bone nut be the best solution?
Rick Doeschler
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sneakers
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toneman
Rick; Have you tried another brand of strings? some strings may work great on one guitar but not so well on another. As you all Know, I'm partial to Pyramid's and have never had tuning problems since switching to those. But, you may want to try either the Pyramid's or Rotosound's or even the Gibson Vintage nickle strings. I've found all three of these to be excellent. I use .011-.048's
Another place to check is the bridge area. Do you have the Maestro long vibrola? This can be a sticking point as some can have an area that's got a weird back angle and also make sure your bridge saddles are smooth thru the grooves. I use #400, then #600 & then #1000 wet or dry sandpaper and it polishes the grooves and doesn't let your strings stick in them.
One other thing to check is the banjo tuners. I've seen a number of these be problematic.
I would start though by using the wet or dry sandpaper in both the nut and bridge saddles. I use a tube of dry graphite as well to lube the slots. You can find that stuff at automotive supply/ repair stores.
Another place to check is the bridge area. Do you have the Maestro long vibrola? This can be a sticking point as some can have an area that's got a weird back angle and also make sure your bridge saddles are smooth thru the grooves. I use #400, then #600 & then #1000 wet or dry sandpaper and it polishes the grooves and doesn't let your strings stick in them.
One other thing to check is the banjo tuners. I've seen a number of these be problematic.
I would start though by using the wet or dry sandpaper in both the nut and bridge saddles. I use a tube of dry graphite as well to lube the slots. You can find that stuff at automotive supply/ repair stores.