Info on an old old Rickenbacker Amp-M10

[azkornman63]

I am looking for ANY information on the Rick. M10 Amplifier. It looks like one I saw earlier and now can't find again that was late 30's or early 40's M10
It has the FRONT like the old suitcase style with the 4 Looong OVAL slates in front of the speaker.......Thanks

[johnallg]

Matt, not sure how different the M10 and M11 are, but here is a schematic for the M11:

http://www.rickenbacker.com/pdfs/m11.pdf

[azkornman63]

John,
Thank you for responding to my question about the M10. You sent a Sch. of the M11 & They ar VERY VERY similar! Just the M11 had 1 more Tube! Here are a couple photos I will try to post that I hope show up. Maybe THIS will get the Info. Started! again! I still don't know WHAT(meaning HOW MUCH!?) I have!
I still am trying to get it up and humming! Replaced the fuse, but am SCARED to turn it on!
ANOTHER BIG question!
HOW do you know how to put the TUBES(all original) back IN?? there is a Notch on one , so that is EASY! but the other 2 ........I could keep spinning and it would fall into place!
I know that cannot be the answer!............................HELP!!?






John, I hope these PIX give you a better idea of what I have. Thanks for ALL the info. up to NOW!.....MATT

[johnallg]

With tubes, if they are not keyed, then there is a gap in the spacing of the pins and if you look closely, you will see it on both the tube and the socket. Visually inspect all the capacitors, resistors, and other components to see if any look burned or distorted.

If you have a variac (a variable transformer that allows bringing the voltage up from zero to 110VAC) use that to power on the amp. Otherwise, pull the tubes and power it to see if the fuse holds. If it does, then with power off, put the tubes back in. Then try to power it again. Have you tested the tubes to see if they are good? What three tubes do you have? I see a metal 6L6, what are the other two?

Wish Greg would stop by!

[azkornman63]

John,
Yes, there is also a 6SC7(that one is grooved) and a Glass RCA cx that's all it says(or all thats left). Well, I did what you suggested. I removed the Tubes. I checked them and they all hold a load. So, basically empty, I turned it on and it powered on for about 5 maybe 7 seconds, then the fuse went.
I put back the 6SC7 and replaced the fuse. POOF! it went again! and I checked the TUBE. The Fuse went before ANY damage to the tube.
It's JUST the GLASS RCA cx(if thats what it is) that Has holes for it ALL the way round. I tested it. and it can "FIT" in 6 diff. positions.

BUT, can that Tube hold up to just "RANDOM" placement?? without damage?

I'm done for the night. It's 12:35 AM & I gotta get some SLEEP!
I will check back in the EVE. Tomorrow.

Your AWESOME DUDE! THANKS!

[johnallg]

John,
Yes, there is also a 6SC7(that one is grooved) and a Glass RCA cx that's all it says(or all thats left). Well, I did what you suggested. I removed the Tubes. I checked them and they all hold a load. So, basically empty, I turned it on and it powered on for about 5 maybe 7 seconds, then the fuse went.
I put back the 6SC7 and replaced the fuse. POOF! it went again! and I checked the TUBE. The Fuse went before ANY damage to the tube.
It's JUST the GLASS RCA cx(if thats what it is) that Has holes for it ALL the way round. I tested it. and it can "FIT" in 6 diff. positions.

BUT, can that Tube hold up to just "RANDOM" placement?? without damage?

I'm done for the night. It's 12:35 AM & I gotta get some SLEEP!
I will check back in the EVE. Tomorrow.

Your AWESOME DUDE! THANKS!

With the fuse blowing with no tubes, you have a major problem. Suspects are the transformer secondary (shorted), filter caps shorted or more likely REALLY leaky (5-7 seconds to blow the fuse), or some other part that has failed. You could gunshot all filter caps just because of age. If you are not comfortable with electronics and using a volt/ohm meter, you should consider taking this to someone who knows tube amps.

The tube that says RCA cx should have markings somewhere along the side that show a 6xxx or 6xx type number - sometimes they have faded so much you really have to hold them to the light to see the stamp. As for it fitting in 6 different ways, that's a new one on me.

[azkornman63]

John, well you were mostly right, and the reason I ended up doing what I did.
I took the cage off the wiring and underbelly compartment. From there, I did it ALL over again. The fuse, turned it on and watched.
Over the DECADES the power cord had been pulled and pushed just a little each time probably. That finally, all the rubbing caused an open where the wire was now touching the grounded metal housing. In turn causing a heating of the transformer, and 5 sec. later, POOF! the fuse! I think that's why it wasn't affecting the fuses thank goodness. For now, I covered the worn spot with elctrical tape and did it ALL OVER!
The fuse NEVER went!
Iv'e got a meter, that's how I found the TUBES were all O.K. After I "messed" up the 1st time Yesterday!! I'm certainly NO expert But, I do enough small electrical things aound the House, and remember much of my schooling(here's a hint at my age- In High School we worked with state-of-the-ART...Vacuum Tubes!!) I checked EVERY circuit and wire while I had it "open" and the rest is fine. I'm STILL stuck on the glass RCA tube. But, John, here's a question. Could the CX that I said was on the glass below RCA-instead of CX ..be 6X ? Just part of the 6 has worn off?? 'cause there is LOTS of red Ink spots missing from the "at least" 60 Year old tube. I don't know if I even fully answered your question from Yesterday. There are ONLY 3 tubes in this AMP.

Anyway, the casing that hold the glass has no imprinting at all on it. I looked it over with a Jeweler's Loupe, and there was never..any #'s or letters on it. BUT, that CX...looking really close, it's NOT a good looking "C" it WOULD make a better 6! You mentioned a 6XX or 6XXX?....What about a 6X ??

I'll wait for your answer.
and AGAIN! Thanks for ALL your Help..............MATT

[johnallg]

Matt, the exes were to illustrate where other numbers of letters would go. I do not recall any tubes from this vintage that would be 6 and just one other number or letter.

Looks like you found the short. That is good but I would replace the whole cord with a 3-wire and attach the green to the chassis.

Looking at the M11 schematic again and you saying there is only 3 tubes, and knowing there is a 6L6 and you saying the one is a 6SC7, that would leave a rectifier tube, the 5Y3 in the M11 schematic. You DO need to get it plugged in correctly. Figure out what each hole on the socket has connected to it then look at this sheet on the 5Y3 and you should be able to figure how to plug it into the socket properly. The two wires from the secondary of the tranny go to 2 and 8 on the tube. Isn't there a plastic nub in the middle of the bottom of that tube (look at the .jpg) that would correspond to the little black mark between pins 1 and 8 on the pdf?

http://www.pmillett.com/tubedata/HB-3/R ... 5Y3-GT.PDF
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/c ... /5Y3GT.jpg

[azkornman63]

Well JOHN!,
AS ALWAYS! You came through again! You are the MAN! As soon as I saw the 53YGT PEG set-up from the bottom, on the attachment you suplied... That was IT! The 3-1-1 peg layout is exactly what I got. Your description of it's placement and the Actual photo's of the 2 Tubes(Mine is the one on the right-the smaller one) made it easy to see WHY I said I could lay it in at 6 different locations! the notch- in the plastic covering the bottom of the TUBE extention IS BROKE OFF! OR maybe just Worn down to the Flat. So I can spin & drop into any holes. So, I looked close at th bottom of the tube and saw a very faint indication of where the "notch" SHOULD fall and I dropped it in- Lit it UP & waited.....The lights were on ....a minute or two went by.....it started with a low, soft hum. This time the HUM stayed low.
So, I plugged my axe into one of the two "instrument" sockets. I started very low, but within a minute or so, I was pushing (near) FULL **STRENGHT** of the .51, out of the ORIGINAL speaker!

I swear, I got CHILLS! as the RUGGED. ROUGH, sound of an early AMP --filled the room! I Wonder WHY they kept trying to "improve" building them! I understand getting MORE Volume and all, but the sounds I heard out of this AMP. With 3 Tubes and the cicuitry that can't "handle" the clear sound of a guitar, I HEARD, WITHOUT a GAIN Button, or a DRIVE Knob, ONE ofthe COOLEST SOUNDS I have EVER HEARD!

I could NOT have done it without ya JOHN! Thanx a million!.....Or should I say Thanx a .51!!! (Have you EVER heard one JOHN??!)

Matt

P.S. NOW, Does anyone KNOW what it's WORTH?? Before I spend LOTS of cash to completely fix it's woes! NOT just that. What Yr. is this Amp?

[johnallg]

Success! Yeah, old single-ended tube amps sound just great. I have not heard one, but I have a lot of tube stereo equipment. Remember 2 channel sound for playing LPs??!!

Before you run that amp too long, you will probably want to replace capacitors as they are very old and won't last. KABOOM at tube voltages. I do not know the age of the amp, but guessing late 30s, early 40s. Here is a link to pics of 50s amps and yours looks to predate these.

http://www.rickenbacker.com/gallery.asp ... gyear=1950

http://jzu.free.fr/rick/amp/index.html

This should prove very helpful! http://online.physics.uiuc.edu/courses/ ... 10_Amp.pdf