Truss Rod Adjusting

[Kyle]

I see you can get a specific tool for adjusting the truss rod, but i dont have one of these.

How do you guys adjust the truss rod?

[jingle_jangle]

Welcome to the RRF, Kyle.

You'll find the answer to this and many, many other tech questions that have been asked over the years, by using the "SEARCH" radio button located at the top right of most RRF pages. Just enter your word or term (here you might try, "adjust truss rod", or simply, "truss rod"), and you will be directed to al the forum posts on that topic. A large volume of words has been authored on this specific topic, as it's one of the first questions asked when a Rick owner decides to work on his or her own instrument.

The proper tool is available from the Rickenbacker.com mail order boutique on their website, or you can purchase an Xcelite L8 driver from any number of electronics suppliers. This is a long-handled driver to allow your knuckles to clear the tuning posts and string ends when you're twisting it. It can cost anywhere from about $12.00-20.00, depending upon where it is sourced. Most techs will grind the socket end down till the wall is very thin, so the driver will fit between the adjusting nut and the floor of the truss rod headstock recess without chewing up the wood in this area.

Here's a shot of the tool in its glorious entirety:



Here's what the ground-down tip looks like:



Here's the business end. You can see how the steel is paper-thin at the points of the hex opening, which would crack under high torque, but adjusting Rick truss rods does not require high torque to be applied.



Which brings me to my last point, a warning:

Under no circumstances should you attempt adjusting a truss rod with a socket mounted to a ratchet or breaker bar, or even a T-handle.

Why do I say this? Because it's too easy with one of these devices to apply too much torque, which will distort the truss rod and possibly the neck, and could snap the rod and, in extreme cases, pop the fretboard right off the neck at the glue joint. 'Nuff said on this.

[marc61]

Hey Kyle, I'd check this out too:

http://www.joeysbassnotes.com/Rick%20maint.htm

[jingle_jangle]

...which is really great and detailed, for bass tech info.

[johnallg]

Welcome aboard Kyle. You can get this wrench on Amazon for $6.74 plus shipping. On my basses, I did not have to grind the end any, so if you are a bass player you might not have to either.

[jdogric12]

How do I grind down the end? (I was referred here from my thread in Guitars about the '10 360/12 FG) Thanks, J

[jingle_jangle]

See muh photos above...

I used a disc sander, but you can use a bench grinder if you've got a steady hand and a lot of time on yer hands.

[collin]

you can use a bench grinder if you've got a steady hand and a lot of time on yer hands.

I used a bench grinder on mine, and it only took about a minute.


Keep turning it as you grind to make sure it's evenly thinned out.

[jingle_jangle]

Well, Collin <<<snif>>> it took me 8.8 seconds on a 20" disc grinder fitted with a 3HP 3 phase motor, running at 1725 RPM, and an 80-grit open coat Aloxite disc...

[bbmusic]

What if you don't have a high-fallutin' grinding machine? Will a file work?

I realize it'll cost me more than 8 seconds and a fair amount of sweat, but those are things I actually have...

[johnhall]

Grinding is normally only necessary if you are servicing an old 4001 bass or 12 stringer. Also, the need to do that is usually indicative of a current or impending problem. None of the wrenches we use on the shop floor are ground down.

However, I do have a ground one in my tool box just in case I run into an old instrument.

[bbmusic]

Well, then, I won't bother with any grinding.

At least for many years, until my Rickenbackers qualify as "old."

Thank you, Mr. Hall.