Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Hey everybody I'm new to this site but got a few questions I have a old 1959 rickenbacker m-22 with two15 in unit I've been wanting to sell but can not find any info on it or what it's worth please help

That sounds like a rare amp. Is it a combo or head/cab setup?

There are several listings of B-22 amps in Register. I believe that was the '60s successor to the M-22: http://www.rickresource.com/register/in ... celebrity=

The B-22 is head/cab setup.

Photos are critical to evaluating your amp. If you can't post them here, send to me and I'll post them.

Pics:

These are hard to appraise because they come up for sale so seldom.

With the small amount of scuffing on the lower edge that is visible, I would venture a price of $1500-$1800 for that one in this down economy. If you were the original or second owner, it might be slightly higher.

BTW, I own one of the B-22s mentioned.

Paz, it looks to be in very good shape. Thanks to Ron for the photos.

I ended up buying this amp from the OP. It was his uncle's amp. I worked with him on packing and shipping it. This thing is a monster, 38" wide, bigger than a pre-CBS Showman cab. It's a heavy combo amp that dates to 1959 with 2x15" Jensen PN15s and two Jensen tweeters in the upper corners.

It is in very nice shape, unusually clean for such a big amp. It is underpowered, though, not much difference in volume between settings 5 or 10 on volume controls. (Note mystery volume knob for Phono Channel 5!) It sounds great, nice and full!

Wow, it's a "Brillante" ...so cool! Congrats on the acquisition!

libratune wrote:This thing is a monster, 38" wide, bigger than a pre-CBS Showman cab.

Pictured with what is really an 8 string bass, for size perspective!

What does the "hum switch" do? I mean, I can guess what it does from the name, but what does it do to the circuit if you engage it.

jps wrote:

libratune wrote:This thing is a monster, 38" wide, bigger than a pre-CBS Showman cab.

Pictured with what is really an 8 string bass, for size perspective!

Congrats!

Grey wrote:What does the "hum switch" do? I mean, I can guess what it does from the name, but what does it do to the circuit if you engage it.

It seems to function like the "ground" switch on a Fender tube amp when the "two-wire" power cords were the norm. I am no electronics expert, but from what I have gathered flipping that switch (it has two positions) will reverse the polarity of the incoming hot/neutral wires, making one or the other into a "pseudo-ground," thus reducing the hum or white noise, depending on the electronic environment (fluorescent lights, single coil pickups, etc.). However, it is not a "true ground" switch; for true grounding you need the third ground wire in the power cord.

As I understand it, with modern amps having three-wire power cords, there is no need for a "ground" or "hum" switch.

I appretiate the explination. I'm sure there's something to be said about keeping it original but have you thought about replacing the power cord with a proper 3-prong plug and grounding the chassis?

Grey wrote:I appretiate the explination. I'm sure there's something to be said about keeping it original but have you thought about replacing the power cord with a proper 3-prong plug and grounding the chassis?

I would consider doing that if the original power cord was frayed or damaged, but with this amp, no. The power cord is in fine shape and I won't replace it. To me the benefits of converting don't outweigh the detraction from originality.

Well, i'm unfamiliar with these old Rickenbacker amps but I do know a few things about old Fenders (from when I was shopping for a Bassman). The ground (or hum) switch on the old 2-prong Fender amps works by engaging a 0.047 uF cap across the two power leads which filters out some noise in the line. If the cap fails, it can result in the amp chassis (and by extension your guitar) being connected directly to the mains, leading to the reason it's called the "death cap" and why these old circuits are usually cut out and replaced with a much safer 3-prong plug and grounded chassis.

I don't know if the "hum switch" on these old Rickenbacker amps works the same way hence all the questions. It's your amp, of course, but for saftey i'd reccomend looking into it a bit deeper.

Grey wrote:I don't know if the "hum switch" on these old Rickenbacker amps works the same way...

I would be fairly certain they do, but if Ron does not plan on playing the amp no problem with keeping it as is. It it were to get some playing time occasionally, I would do the mod as it is reversible so long as the original power cord is retained. The cap should be disconnected from the chassis and taped up to isolate it in addition to adding the third (ground) wire.