Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Kids,

I've been playing my 360/12 recently. It has more volume and requires more strength to fret than my 360/6. Which got me to thinking of switching from .10 on the 6 string to .12 or even .13. Who plays this heavy? What are differences in volume and tone? (Mine has toasters). Also, assuming the guitar is properly set up now with no neck issues, would I need a set-up because of increased tension or would I be good to go with swapping out at home? (I'm no guitar tech).

Thanks,

JKC

Assuming you are using the same type of string and you play with the same attack an the set up is roughly the same, heavier strings should be noticeably brighter and a little louder.

I have 13s on an old Fender Jaguar (the neck would back-bow with anything lighter) and I find I naturally compensate for the heavier strings by playing with a softer attack, which partially negates the volume and tone differences relative to the "standard" strings I have on other guitars.

Bending strings to the same extent is a big challenge.

Peter Buck famously uses 13s. I do think heavier strings sound better
I use 11s
The main tech issue is not the neck, but the nut, the slots will be too small, so you need another nut for that gauge or
make the slots bigger yourself, lots of You Tube help out there.

I just about get away with using 11s on a standard nut, but the fat E doesn't really sit properly in it's slot.

OK. More foolishness.

Goal is to get my 360/6 as close in volume and similar chime as the 12. Normally played DR 10 to 46. I have a set of: John Pearse phosphor bronze 12 to 53, wound G (acoustic); Ernie Ball 11 to 48 (there is a "p" after the G string but have not opened packet); DR down tune 13 to 65; and, Cleartone 11 to 52 molecular protection.

I'd like to avoid replacing nut and simply cutting if need be. I am thinking the John Pearse. Does phosphor bronze not work with magnetic pick-ups? Sorry, but adventure into the great unknown. I am thinking the DR drop tune will not work and the molecular stuff would interfere.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance,

JKC

Nevermind. Just did my research on line. Sorry to bother.

JKC

Take it a step at a time. Try 11's with a wound 3rd (I like .020w's) and if that works, widen the nut slots for it or have a good tech do it. Let it sit a few days at the new tension then adjust the truss rods as needed. Let it sit a few more days and see how you like it. If it's in the right direction but not enough, you can repeat with .012's, etc.

jdogric12 wrote:Take it a step at a time. Try 11's with a wound 3rd (I like .020w's) and if that works, widen the nut slots for it or have a good tech do it. Let it sit a few days at the new tension then adjust the truss rods as needed. Let it sit a few more days and see how you like it. If it's in the right direction but not enough, you can repeat with .012's, etc.

This.^^^The D'Addario 115W set has the wound third. If you go up to 12's, almost all 12's electric sets have a wound third as well. I stopped at 11's.

Hi there.

I had the pleasure of setting up Peter Buck's guitars when he was touring in September with Arthur Buck. The guitars he uses now (Satellite) have 12 gauge D'addarios on them. I asked him about this because I had heard he uses 13 gauge. He confirmed that he indeed used 13 gauge strings on his rics when he was with REM.

I recently changed out all of my 10 gauge for 12 gauge for my Rics (330, 340, 360) and noticed a huge difference. They seem to ring out better and provide a more powerful "chime". Just make sure you use a wound G string or your guitar will not sound "in tune". Trust me. You are going to also have to tweak the truss rods a bit to straighten out the necks. If you haven't done this before, seek professional help. It can be tricky with the dual truss rods.

That is all
Good luck!

Not jealous at all Dinotar, no, not at all

Thanks Dean - that's awesome of you to share!