Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I know this is a really old post, but I must have a unique 4001 - at least if I am understanding the info presented. It is a 1976 with a 3 screw TP. Am I right in my understanding that a 76 should be zinc and 5 screw? Thanks! Glad you found out about the location of the "hidden" screws......

What the hell… bought it, and not for full price, either. Now, I’ve got to find the tuners :) That sure is one nice bass! Congrats. How are you gonna go about the tuner holes? In order to fit period-correct tuners (probably Grovers?!?), you first have to plug the enlarged ones, and then somehow hid...

When I lust after something unique and new, I usually think I can build that, since my cheapnis usually wins. Plus you've got the extra benefit of tailoring the instrument to your exact needs! 8) I used to own both 5- and 6- string basses, but only for a brief period of time. Partly because I don't...

My theory is that one of the frets is high. Is there a quick way to test this? I am OK trying to slack the truss rod on that side but it seems unlikely to be the culprit given where the buzz is happening. Any advice? Just out of curiosity: Did Paul W.'s advice cure the "choking"? There co...

What is the exact depth of the channels for pre-'85 hairpin truss rods? Sadly I forgot to take exact measurements - but it's only a hair deeper than the hairpin rod's thickness itself. That's because you only need a tiny bit of play for it to be removable, and there's no wood strip between the rod ...

Dirk wrote: ↑Sun Mar 27, 2022 9:09 am ...I've been building from scratch for years as well.

Hey, that's cool!

I realized that once you've got bitten by the "build yer own"-bug, there's almost no way back to the conventional off-the-wall stuff - except for certain vintage instruments...
what's your take on this?

Dirk wrote: ↑Sun Mar 27, 2022 8:55 am And a happy story in the end.

Yeah - that's the most important thing!

Not sure where you're lubing up the rod? You mean the threads? I've never had to do that. And if you lube the threads they don't want to hold in place, which is their job. My early 4003 used classic hairpin rods, so I have no clue on the modern rods. When you tighten the rod nut you're pulling the ...

Dirk wrote: ↑Sat Mar 26, 2022 8:49 am Over many years I've never once seen a #2 too much back bow.

Well,

viewtopic.php?t=417425

Hi all, when I recently contributed to another truss rod related topic, it brought back memories of a rather interesting phenomenon I've stumbled across many years ago, and I thought I'd share it with you belatedly. Not only is it "interesting". It also has certain implications on neck adj...

FYI on single rods the truss rod is actually pushing against the fingerboard to push the neck back and fight tensions. Hi Dirk, thanks for your contribution! You're absolutely right by indicating that the skunk stripe in reference to Ricks is more or less a misnomer, as it's rather another neck lam...

Hi all,

I've posted my thoughts on the single truss rod here:
viewtopic.php?p=878853#p878853

Cheers,
Karsten

Hi all, If what the OP is saying is true, it makes me wonder why Rickenbacker decided to re-introduce the skunk stripe the moment they introduced the single truss rod - of all times. From a construction standpoint, this is certainly not the best combination, and I would personally avoid it when buil...

A lot of information in "the book" too! :D I knew I forgot something... :lol: It's always interesting that once you dig a little deeper into the subject, you discover so many details which sometimes make it surprisingly easy to date almost any instrument, regardless of the manufacturer - ...

...what other ways can a Ric bass be dated? Apart from the truss rods, here a few things to look out for - and this is just what pops into my head as I write this: - type of tuning machines - neck construction (1-, 2-, 3- piece, the latter with skunk stripe), flatsawn/quartersawn... - body routings...