Neck setup

Vintage, Modern, V & C series, Fretless, Signature & Special Editions

Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4

Post Reply
TTA
New member
Posts: 35
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2021 2:03 pm

Neck setup

Post by TTA »

Bass: 96’4003 (thin one piece neck)
Strings: 40-100 roundwound
Issue: my ideal action on frets 1-12 results in bad fret buzz on the heel of neck. Sighting the neck, the heel looks proud, especially on bass side. Tightening the rods further just s curves the neck and i get buzz frets 1-6, no fix to heal.


Thoughts?
User avatar
henry5
Advanced Member
Posts: 2695
Joined: Thu Mar 11, 2004 6:00 am

Re: Neck setup

Post by henry5 »

TTA wrote:Bass: 96’4003 (thin one piece neck)
Strings: 40-100 roundwound
Issue: my ideal action on frets 1-12 results in bad fret buzz on the heel of neck. Sighting the neck, the heel looks proud, especially on bass side. Tightening the rods further just s curves the neck and i get buzz frets 1-6, no fix to heal.


Thoughts?
If you mean that tightening the rods to remove relief creates buzzing at the first few frets it could be your nut is too low. Take it to a pro and get it looked at.

I note this is your second double thread, which may create confusing responses!
TTA
New member
Posts: 35
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2021 2:03 pm

Re: Neck setup

Post by TTA »

henry5 wrote:
TTA wrote:Bass: 96’4003 (thin one piece neck)
Strings: 40-100 roundwound
Issue: my ideal action on frets 1-12 results in bad fret buzz on the heel of neck. Sighting the neck, the heel looks proud, especially on bass side. Tightening the rods further just s curves the neck and i get buzz frets 1-6, no fix to heal.


Thoughts?
If you mean that tightening the rods to remove relief creates buzzing at the first few frets it could be your nut is too low. Take it to a pro and get it looked at.

I note this is your second double thread, which may create confusing responses!

Yeah exactly. But if the nut is too low, it also creates an s curve in the neck, vs generating a straight neck. Low by nut, high mid neck, then high again at the heel. Never have i or any “pro” been able to set it up. Mind you, we are short on “pros” specific to this bass. Just cant get the neck perfectly straight.

I am ok making it play well up to the 14th fret… sacrifice the rest in the name of low action. But i am tempted to try 35-95’s. Other option if a pro cant solve it… it see if the pro thinks a fret filing at the heel may help.
User avatar
Dirk
Member
Posts: 339
Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 6:06 pm

Re: Neck setup

Post by Dirk »

Have you considered trying the old style rods technique of clamping the neck into place?

Clamp the bass to a table (bridge end), use another clamp to pull the headstock into just where you want it.
Of course its wise to use protection on your clamps.

You might be able to get it to behave, good luck.
User avatar
henry5
Advanced Member
Posts: 2695
Joined: Thu Mar 11, 2004 6:00 am

Re: Neck setup

Post by henry5 »

TTA wrote:
henry5 wrote:
TTA wrote:Bass: 96’4003 (thin one piece neck)
Strings: 40-100 roundwound
Issue: my ideal action on frets 1-12 results in bad fret buzz on the heel of neck. Sighting the neck, the heel looks proud, especially on bass side. Tightening the rods further just s curves the neck and i get buzz frets 1-6, no fix to heal.


Thoughts?
If you mean that tightening the rods to remove relief creates buzzing at the first few frets it could be your nut is too low. Take it to a pro and get it looked at.

I note this is your second double thread, which may create confusing responses!

Yeah exactly. But if the nut is too low, it also creates an s curve in the neck, vs generating a straight neck. Low by nut, high mid neck, then high again at the heel. Never have i or any “pro” been able to set it up. Mind you, we are short on “pros” specific to this bass. Just cant get the neck perfectly straight.

I am ok making it play well up to the 14th fret… sacrifice the rest in the name of low action. But i am tempted to try 35-95’s. Other option if a pro cant solve it… it see if the pro thinks a fret filing at the heel may help.
Try replacing the nut. Where are you based?
TTA
New member
Posts: 35
Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2021 2:03 pm

Re: Neck setup

Post by TTA »

I understand how a higher nut can help counter this issue, but the issue is more in being unable to adjust the neck straight.

I may try adjusting the naeck in place like the old school rods. To you guys do it under some string tension? I usually back it off a bit then adjust.

I figure step one is a straight neck. Go from there if i can accomplish that.
User avatar
Dirk
Member
Posts: 339
Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 6:06 pm

Re: Neck setup

Post by Dirk »

@John, yes fully tuned tension always.
That's why the clamps are so useful.

Dirk
User avatar
ram
Senior Member
Posts: 3728
Joined: Sun Jun 25, 2006 2:55 pm

Re: Neck setup

Post by ram »

What I do - I have a low armrest couch. I place the bass (Tuned up and TRC off) on the cushion with the neck over the arm (somewhere around the 12th to 15the fret- your couch may vary). I throw a couple of throw pillows on the body (as a counter weight) and start the measure. If the neck is bending towards the string, it's pretty simple to back the nuts of the rod a little (maybe a quarter turn) and measure again. I usually start with say the D/G side and then move to the E/A side. If the neck is bending away from the strings. There will be a need to tighten the nuts BUT the neck MUST be bent to the correct position first, HELD there and the nut tightened. So place the hand held nut driver on the nut/rod whose side you are working (E/A or D/G). with one hand hold the measuring tool on the neck. With your other hand at the top of the headstock, gently push down on the headstock until the tool shows straight (it doesn't all have to be done in one try, you can advance it incrementally if the adjustment is huge). Hold the neck in position don't let up on the headstock. Set down the measuring tool and use that hand to tighten the nut. Just do it to where it is snug. Move to the other truss rod and repeat the operation. Repeat both sides until the neck is straight/flat. I usually do this about 2 or 3 times to get the neck where I want it to be. I then strap-up the bass and measure the neck in playing position - then put the TRC back on. If you are using a regular straightedge or the strings to measure, you are measuring the frets for flatness. If you have a straightedge with reliefs cut for the frets (available on Amazon for about $25) then you'd be measuring the actual fretboard flatness. Not sure if that makes a difference or not. Just take your time. A quarter to half a turn, max, of the nut with each measurement is what some folks recommend. Some also say to let it sit for a while between turns - I usually just do both rods then play it a little (2 to 5 minutes) and tune it, then return it to the couch for the next measurement. Hope this helps a little.
The only thing we can perceive are our perceptions - George Berkeley
Post Reply

Return to “Rickenbacker Basses: by Joey Vasco & Tony Cabibe”