Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I've had to adjust the rods on my v68 several times over the past year or so, and recently noticed something alarming about the E/A side rod nut:
Here's how the other end looks:
I'm concerned that i've just about run out of adjustment room on the E/A side. What do you guys think - might it need a truss rod replacement?

John, if you look closely at the E A side rod at the body end, you will see it is pulling up into the neck wood. I believe PW has stated the fix is to drill the hole a bit bigger, put in a dowel section, then redrill for the rod. I believe this is what is happening to your V68.

Thanks John. Wanna do it for me?

Is this something I shouldn't let go unfixed for a while?

Since you've said over the last year you continue to have to tighten the rod, it will continue. Eventually (from the pic I'd say soon) you will run out of adjustment. I would contact Paul, Dale, or Ted about it. I personally would not attempt this on my own bass, so definitely not on yours.

You will also see that the plate in the headstock cavity is sinking into the neck as the E/A TR nut is not sticking out from the string nut as much as the D/G TR nut.

I saw that Jeff, but thought it was due to a whole lot more pressure on the left rod than on the right rod. It would be interesting to see how the neck lays with no string or rod pressures.

I think John A is right, but I would also be curious to see the condition of the plate and the wood behind it.

John Hall has said that if you drip super glue gel into the hole at the anchor end(with rod out)
and are carful only to apply to the anchor area, the super glue will harden the wood so that it will
bare the pressure. Then you can take washers(an odd size that I found at Cole's Power Models)
and place them in the anchor end to get the rods even at the adjusting end.
You need to use a high quality super glue gel, available from a hobby shop or Stew-Mac.

Gee, I hope that made some sense......

... that is correct, as John has told me about that application, also.

chefothefuture wrote:John Hall has said that if you drip super glue gel into the hole at the anchor end(with rod out)
and are carful only to apply to the anchor area, the super glue will harden the wood so that it will
bare the pressure. Then you can take washers(an odd size that I found at Cole's Power Models)
and place them in the anchor end to get the rods even at the adjusting end.
You need to use a high quality super glue gel, available from a hobby shop or Stew-Mac.

Gee, I hope that made some sense......

In addition to this I would fabricate a new truss rod spacer more like the early version. This would distribute the pressure to a larger area.

The super glue fix is one I've used myself on one or two occasions, BUT I use it in conjunction with a stack of washers on the rod, at the body end, to take up the slack and equalize the length once again.

This situation--of the nut pulling up into the neck--is a function both of tightening the nut repeatedly, and of a slightly softer piece of neck maple. Nothing to be concerned about. Maple does vary in hardness. This softness on one side of the neck could also explain why it needed more frequent adjustment than the other side.

D'oh Did not realize how old this post was!

It's an old thread, but a proven solution that I've used many times since.

In extreme cases, a strip of brass, hard (T6) aluminum, or steel can be used at the body end, too.