Hi. I was looking at rick parts, and i saw that they were selling ones with rubber thingys on em and all this ****. so, what I'm asking is which one is the best, and is it available in 1 peice.
thank you.
Bass bridge
Moderator: jingle_jangle
Rick uses their own bridge and they also use a Schaller bridge , and what appears to possibly be a Gotoh made bridge .
The bridge on the 4003/4001 is an 'inhouse' unit that was designed for that model specificlly.
That bass has an extremely low profile and no neck angle adjustment .
It must be used with precision.
IT comes with an old timey mute system .This was common in the late 1950's (Fender basses and guitars came with mutes too as did some Gibson and Gretsch guitars) .But this has proven to be something dare I say , Stuck in antiquity.
The Cheyenne bridge is a very nice unit ...look at that .It has length , height and actual string spacing adjustments.
It is a milled piece from solids rather than injected material .This allows for platings to adhere .Zinc castings can have platting troubles and aluminum just does NOT like to be plated.
To directly answer the question , I will pose a question ...................
What is the best color for a bass?
Now I think you get my point.It is 100% preferance.
The bridge on the 4003/4001 is an 'inhouse' unit that was designed for that model specificlly.
That bass has an extremely low profile and no neck angle adjustment .
It must be used with precision.
IT comes with an old timey mute system .This was common in the late 1950's (Fender basses and guitars came with mutes too as did some Gibson and Gretsch guitars) .But this has proven to be something dare I say , Stuck in antiquity.
The Cheyenne bridge is a very nice unit ...look at that .It has length , height and actual string spacing adjustments.
It is a milled piece from solids rather than injected material .This allows for platings to adhere .Zinc castings can have platting troubles and aluminum just does NOT like to be plated.
To directly answer the question , I will pose a question ...................
What is the best color for a bass?
Now I think you get my point.It is 100% preferance.
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
Not commercially available .....NO
It could / can be done ...however there is a trademark problem and Ric will defend that trademark .That is understandable .
The Fender and Gibson after market products are the result of the former parent companies NOT retaining the trademarks .Then the new ownership fighting to reclaim them .
As Ric has been in the Hall family since the 1950's ....I do not see them losing the rights to their products nor components .
It could / can be done ...however there is a trademark problem and Ric will defend that trademark .That is understandable .
The Fender and Gibson after market products are the result of the former parent companies NOT retaining the trademarks .Then the new ownership fighting to reclaim them .
As Ric has been in the Hall family since the 1950's ....I do not see them losing the rights to their products nor components .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
If you are Really interested in "upping the performance ante" of your Rick,consider taking your current saddle section to a local tool and die or metalworking machine shop and ask them what they'd charge to make a dimensionally
close piece, out of better metal,to improve things. This will Not be cheap, but a good shop could do this, and,as a one off deal for your own purposes, I'm not convinced this would be problematic legally ,either.Mark can give you more specifics as to what He might suggest you try to have done. Can't hurt to investigate.....
close piece, out of better metal,to improve things. This will Not be cheap, but a good shop could do this, and,as a one off deal for your own purposes, I'm not convinced this would be problematic legally ,either.Mark can give you more specifics as to what He might suggest you try to have done. Can't hurt to investigate.....
Check out my bridge modification for better /easier intonation adjustements .
Add to this a mod for sustain ...drill out the feet holes in the tailpiece .Drill out the feet holes and rethread for an 8/32 hex head screw .
In the body insert a 'cup' for the feet to sit , this will give you support for the feet and it will make the piece sit upright.
It isn't screwed into the body , but this DOES increase rigidity and sustain .I use stainless hex screws ,and this works very well.
I also re-notch the saddles using round parallel files and round edged joint files .
This has the bottom of the string sitting in the groove as oppose to two points in a 'V' notch ...I think it is a better way to go .
Add to this a mod for sustain ...drill out the feet holes in the tailpiece .Drill out the feet holes and rethread for an 8/32 hex head screw .
In the body insert a 'cup' for the feet to sit , this will give you support for the feet and it will make the piece sit upright.
It isn't screwed into the body , but this DOES increase rigidity and sustain .I use stainless hex screws ,and this works very well.
I also re-notch the saddles using round parallel files and round edged joint files .
This has the bottom of the string sitting in the groove as oppose to two points in a 'V' notch ...I think it is a better way to go .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!