I have a mid-1970s 4001FL BG (right-handed guitar) that has an interesting 'situation' with its neck binding. Apparently, the guitar was used by a left-handed player at one time; to accommodate this, a 'luthier' (you'll see why I use the term loosely) switched the top and bottom neck bindings. However, the original top binding (having the fret markers in it), when moved to the bottom of the neck, was installed with the fret markers going the wrong direction, i.e. narrow spacing near the nut, wider spacing near the body. I'm not sure a 'real' luthier would make that mistake.
So my dilemma is that this fretless bass currently has no usable fret markers on either side of the neck, so it's not very playable either left- or right-handed. How difficult is it to remove the neck bindings and switch them back to their correct positions? Is this something I can do myself (I'm no luthier, but I am a 'McGyver' type of tinkerer, handy with tools and machines). One thing to note: the previous switch is noticeable with regard to the finish on the neck near the binding, so unless I do something really clutzy, I don't think I can make things worse than it already is in that regard.
Any input from the experts will be greatly appreciated.
Neck binding question
Moderator: jingle_jangle
Neck binding question
It is better, of course, to know useless things than to know nothing. - Seneca
Binding can be purchased from any one of several "Luthier" supply houses (Luthiers Mercantile , Stew/Mac etc) .
You will need some tools to clean up the edge of the slot after removing the old binding .I woulld use either a chisel that is razor sharp or a Utility knife blade as a scraper .
The good news is , more than likely , the dot markers were drilled throught the binding nito the fretboard .Upon removal of the worthless stock binding , you will find the hole pattern .
I would use a Square to transfer these holes to a piece of tape applied to the fretboard surface .Then after gluing on the new binding (this will need to set for three days to allow the cement to thoroughly dry) , you can then redrill the holes .
A major tip .........Transfer these markings to a piece of paper so that you have this set aside .You will need to FILL the holes that are there already , as when you redrill the new holes , you will NEVER be able to perfectly align the new hole with the hole under the binding .This would cause the bit to move sideways and give you an oval hole .It will look far better if you plug those holes and then install the binding and redrill at that point .
You will need some tools to clean up the edge of the slot after removing the old binding .I woulld use either a chisel that is razor sharp or a Utility knife blade as a scraper .
The good news is , more than likely , the dot markers were drilled throught the binding nito the fretboard .Upon removal of the worthless stock binding , you will find the hole pattern .
I would use a Square to transfer these holes to a piece of tape applied to the fretboard surface .Then after gluing on the new binding (this will need to set for three days to allow the cement to thoroughly dry) , you can then redrill the holes .
A major tip .........Transfer these markings to a piece of paper so that you have this set aside .You will need to FILL the holes that are there already , as when you redrill the new holes , you will NEVER be able to perfectly align the new hole with the hole under the binding .This would cause the bit to move sideways and give you an oval hole .It will look far better if you plug those holes and then install the binding and redrill at that point .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
Gary,
If you contact Rickenbacker service dept., they can sell you binding. Just specify whether it's "Body binding", or "neck binding" also, black or white. Body and neck binding are 2 different widths and thicknesses.Also tell them what length you need[i.e.,for example, say, a bass fingerboard is 18" long; tell them you want 18", unless you need to do Both sides, then Double the length.]They may or may not provide you with dot material.
If you contact Rickenbacker service dept., they can sell you binding. Just specify whether it's "Body binding", or "neck binding" also, black or white. Body and neck binding are 2 different widths and thicknesses.Also tell them what length you need[i.e.,for example, say, a bass fingerboard is 18" long; tell them you want 18", unless you need to do Both sides, then Double the length.]They may or may not provide you with dot material.
Mark and Don, thanks for the input. From what you have said, I am guessing that it isn't likely (or maybe even possible) for one to reuse the old binding. I've not removed any binding before - what tool does one use? Also, what type of cement is used to attach it? Clarification will be greatly appreciated!
It is better, of course, to know useless things than to know nothing. - Seneca
A Stanley utility knife or a sharp (not sort of )chisel work very well .Start from the end of the fretboard and use the knife from th etop edge at the fretboard .You might score the edge on the side , but that is not likely to be necessary .This should almopst fall off .
I use one of three cements , dpending on what is being done , condition of the finish and age of the guitar.
Sigment is a glue that is an acetone based model glue .
You will need to sand the side that you want to 'glue to the wood' .
Use a utility knife to scrape the ledge clean .
I mix the Sigment with acetone in a container and then brush it on the binding .I then use BLUE painters tape to hold this onto the ledge .Let it sit for 48 hours at least .
At that point we can go from there.
Second version ......If that is really scarey, Get some DUCO cement at an office supply (again , an acetone based product)
This is slower to gel , and can be used straight .BUT... it does not hold as well .
I also use another glue .... but that is nasty and requires special handling , so I won't pass that on here.
Acetone can also be used straight .... however , it reacts with almost every type of finish on a guitar .So this is used BEFORE finishing.
I use one of three cements , dpending on what is being done , condition of the finish and age of the guitar.
Sigment is a glue that is an acetone based model glue .
You will need to sand the side that you want to 'glue to the wood' .
Use a utility knife to scrape the ledge clean .
I mix the Sigment with acetone in a container and then brush it on the binding .I then use BLUE painters tape to hold this onto the ledge .Let it sit for 48 hours at least .
At that point we can go from there.
Second version ......If that is really scarey, Get some DUCO cement at an office supply (again , an acetone based product)
This is slower to gel , and can be used straight .BUT... it does not hold as well .
I also use another glue .... but that is nasty and requires special handling , so I won't pass that on here.
Acetone can also be used straight .... however , it reacts with almost every type of finish on a guitar .So this is used BEFORE finishing.
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!