Truss Rod confusion

fireglo · Post by **fireglo** » Tue Jul 02, 2002 5:51 pm

Ok, I have a 4003 bass (bought in 2000), and I just put Pyramid flats on it a couple days ago. The Pyramids caused the neck to bow. I read the manual, which says turn the nut a half turn at a time counterclockwise to correct an overbow. I did this and the neck bow did not change. In fact, a half turn backed the nuts to the point that they no longer had any tension on the truss rod.

I've measured the amount of bow at the 5th and 7th frets with the first and last frets held down and they are: 5th fret 2/64ths of an inch. 7th fret 3/64ths of an inch.

I've been searching for information on adjusting the truss rods, and I seem to be finding that you tighten the rods to straighten the neck? Is this true? Seems to contradict the manual. What should I do with my neck? Is it ok to leave it as is, or should I have it adjusted by someone who knows what they're doing?

rick12dr · Post by **rick12dr** » Tue Jul 02, 2002 7:13 pm

Tim;
You need to browse the archives here in the "Ask a Rick Luthier" and find a thread about this. Look around a bit and I Guarantee you will find
anything and everything you need on Any subject pertaining to maintenance or repairs of a Rickenbacker.And probably a few useful things you would never otherwise think of.This column is invaluable.Check it out.If you Still need help, we are here to assist if we can.

fireglo · Post by **fireglo** » Wed Jul 03, 2002 4:52 am

Thanks Don! That helped. I straightened the neck, but I'm having trouble getting the saddles to move on the bridge. What kind of screwdriver works best for this? The screws are very hard to turn (not to mention reach).

admin · Post by **admin** » Wed Jul 03, 2002 5:30 am

Tim: Be sure to slacken off on the strings, before trying to adjust the saddles. The stock screws are soft and you may strip the heads. Some folks have done a modification on the bridge that includes, among other features, replacing the stock screws. I find that if you take your time and make sure that the tension is off the strings before making a saddle adjustment everything works fine.

rick12dr · Post by **rick12dr** » Wed Jul 03, 2002 7:32 am

Tim;
Have you changed guages of strings on the bass? Was it relatively in tune before you started working with it? A little tip for quick tweaking the intonation; the whole saddle section is standing on only 2 allen screws, and therefore can "move forward and back", by pushing it toward the mute area, or backwards toward the end of the tailpiece.If you are tued to pitch, and the strings are Sharp whin you hit the 12th fret harmonic,try useing a small,flathead[slothead screws] screwdriver to gently "pry" on the front edge of the saddle section to allow the saddles to "rock back", thereby flatting the note.Are you understanding what I'm getting at here? And if a 12th fret harmonic note is Flat, Reverse the process.A suggestion for guys who actually play their Ricks for a living, and therefore are more likely to be doing more frequent adjusting;contact Rick service dept and order yourself an extra set of the allen head height screws, as well as those small, Phillips machine screws used for intonating the saddles.If[sometimes a Big if] you have a Really good hdwe. store, sometimes you can find some of these screws, other times[I've had Plenty of these]Rick is the Only place to get them.

fireglo · Post by **fireglo** » Wed Jul 03, 2002 10:37 am

I get what you're saying about the bridge being able to move forward or back. I have it in the middle (straight up). It fell forward when I first started working on the bass, and I started getting a rattle, which was from the bridge touching the mute section. I slacked the strings and put it back up-right.

The intonation is only out a hair on a couple of the strings, so I will live with it for now. The problem I'm having with the screws is they almost feel like they are glued in place. At the risk of striping the heads of the screws, I not going to mess with it for a bit. Could I put oil on the screws to make them turn easier?

rick12dr · Post by **rick12dr** » Wed Jul 03, 2002 12:27 pm

A little oil won't hurt.But this would be most effective if you did the oil on the Backside of the saddle chassis, right on the little threaded"nub" that is the underside termination of the actual saddle.I haven't had one of these apart in a while, but I think there is also some kind of retainer clip/spring o there as well.If you Were to be able to find a replacement screw
for the saddles at a hdwe. store, I personally would get stainless steel machine screws.

headbanger · Post by **headbanger** » Wed Jul 03, 2002 6:07 pm

I always slack off the strings and remove the saddle to make adjustments. Saves wrecking screwheads & threads. Once set it shouldn't need readusting unless you change string gauge