Truss rod
Moderator: jingle_jangle
Juston,
Last Saturday I installed a twelve saddle bridge on a second RIC (my 370/12). Before doing so, I checked the relief using a 24" steel rule from a machinists square and a set of feeler guages.
Sitting on the 1st and last fret, the relief at the 12th fret was initially about 0.011"
With one-third turn on each nut, the relief was about 0.003" the following morning.
Last Saturday I installed a twelve saddle bridge on a second RIC (my 370/12). Before doing so, I checked the relief using a 24" steel rule from a machinists square and a set of feeler guages.
Sitting on the 1st and last fret, the relief at the 12th fret was initially about 0.011"
With one-third turn on each nut, the relief was about 0.003" the following morning.
If you have a newer guitar (made after 1985) that has the 'modern' rod system , you will find a stainless steel bar that is of a thin stock . About .100 thick or 2.6mm
This is a way better system than the old aluminum bar ........however , on some instruments this stainless bar flexes in the middle , and some times it finds it's way under the fretboard , slowly pressing it's way inward toward the fretboard .
I cut a section of aluminum stock and make a piece that 'fits' the contours of the rod cavity . The corners are rounded and my piece huggs these while at the same time pressing against the neck wood . This gives maximum support .
The troubles you are having is NOT an error in design , but rather a random problem that is more likely the grain of the neck and the depth of the cut as well as how the rods lay in their slot .
Replacing this bar will fix this and using the stainless bar with the steel washers will insure long lasting adjustability .
Any good repair shop could make you one of these .
This is a way better system than the old aluminum bar ........however , on some instruments this stainless bar flexes in the middle , and some times it finds it's way under the fretboard , slowly pressing it's way inward toward the fretboard .
I cut a section of aluminum stock and make a piece that 'fits' the contours of the rod cavity . The corners are rounded and my piece huggs these while at the same time pressing against the neck wood . This gives maximum support .
The troubles you are having is NOT an error in design , but rather a random problem that is more likely the grain of the neck and the depth of the cut as well as how the rods lay in their slot .
Replacing this bar will fix this and using the stainless bar with the steel washers will insure long lasting adjustability .
Any good repair shop could make you one of these .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
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aladams
Well, what does Dan Erlewine know anyway???? I'd say you know enough is enough when you crank till all 6 or 12 strings go: "BLANG"!!!!
Seriously though, and ALL joking aside, (Mr. Dan Erlewine you are one of the finest luthiers that I have ever studied from your techniques)...if the neck-action feels high and you feel that you may be over-tightening the truss rods, you may consider going to lighter guage string. I have used 9's on my Ric 12 string before, with the low end being 42. The sound was not that noticably different from the normal Ric 12 string guage of 10's thru 46. I also used a lighter octave string for the lower E, A, and D strings. The G is always the culprit to deal with. You don't have to use a wound G but make sure you don't go above a 10 on that octave string. You can use a 15 or 16 as the bass for the G string...not wound, and a little tuffer to tune, but try it out. Good luck...and keep strumming! God Bless, AL A.
Seriously though, and ALL joking aside, (Mr. Dan Erlewine you are one of the finest luthiers that I have ever studied from your techniques)...if the neck-action feels high and you feel that you may be over-tightening the truss rods, you may consider going to lighter guage string. I have used 9's on my Ric 12 string before, with the low end being 42. The sound was not that noticably different from the normal Ric 12 string guage of 10's thru 46. I also used a lighter octave string for the lower E, A, and D strings. The G is always the culprit to deal with. You don't have to use a wound G but make sure you don't go above a 10 on that octave string. You can use a 15 or 16 as the bass for the G string...not wound, and a little tuffer to tune, but try it out. Good luck...and keep strumming! God Bless, AL A.
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ricnbacker
- Veteran RRF member
- Posts: 532
- Joined: Wed Aug 07, 2002 5:00 am
i hope you guys can help with my question about the ric truss rods.
btw its a 4003
counter clockwise on my rods will leave them loose in the neck to where you and hear them rattle.if you tap on the back of the neck it sounds hollow it i tighten up the rods.
there is a slight bow to the neck and the action/tone is fine. but to my untrained eye the bow seems to start aftre the 2nd fret and then straight again after the 12th.
if i fret my E string at the 5th fret and at the 9th i can slide a ciarette paper between the string and the fret at the 7th fret(barely)
is this good/normal/ the way it is or what.
i am just a guy who loves his ric but i am very hesitant to make adjustments like this.
btw its a 4003
counter clockwise on my rods will leave them loose in the neck to where you and hear them rattle.if you tap on the back of the neck it sounds hollow it i tighten up the rods.
there is a slight bow to the neck and the action/tone is fine. but to my untrained eye the bow seems to start aftre the 2nd fret and then straight again after the 12th.
if i fret my E string at the 5th fret and at the 9th i can slide a ciarette paper between the string and the fret at the 7th fret(barely)
is this good/normal/ the way it is or what.
i am just a guy who loves his ric but i am very hesitant to make adjustments like this.