I've just put new D'Addario strings on my 660/12TP and I'm having a problem with fret buzz on the low E string and the D string. It had Pyramid flats on it before I put the D'Addario strings on, and I'm guessing that I can fix this by adjusting truss rod tension. The strings are buzzing at the first fret (I think), and if I use a capo at the first fret the problem disappears.
Given that the G B E strings play fine I thought I'd loosen the tension on the t-rod beneath the lower end strings (E A D). Can anyone give me an idea of how much to adjust it? I know that without seeing it it's not easy, but a rough idea would help since I have to retune all the strings after each adjustment and 'trial and error ' makes for a very long process. If there's anything else I should be aware of when I'm doing this I would appreciate any advice you can offer.
Fret buzz after string change on 660/12
Moderator: jingle_jangle
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russmanuel
- Veteran RRF member
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Sat Apr 07, 2001 8:02 pm
Lee: Try here first. Also, Russmanuel has a very good point.
Life, as with music, often requires one to let go of the melody and listen to the rhythm
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Thanks Peter and Russmanuel, the posting on truss rod adjustment had a salutary effect - I won't be touching them if I can possibly avoid it - way too scary.
Russmanuel's point may be the problem. There are signs that the nut may have been cut - if anything the action with the Pyramids was too low - there was so little difference between first fret and open string that it was hard to play the first fret - no room for the string to flex under the finger to get an F on the E string without applying enormous pressure.
I'll try building up the affected slots with something to see if it works before I get a new nut.
Thanks again guys, LK
Russmanuel's point may be the problem. There are signs that the nut may have been cut - if anything the action with the Pyramids was too low - there was so little difference between first fret and open string that it was hard to play the first fret - no room for the string to flex under the finger to get an F on the E string without applying enormous pressure.
I'll try building up the affected slots with something to see if it works before I get a new nut.
Thanks again guys, LK
Lee...you could cut 1/8" off the end of a spare string that goes in that position and lay it in the slot as a test or superglue it if it won't stay. If you have to glue it, cut a longer piece of string with the overhang toward the tuners. When you want to remove the piece of string just heat it up with a soldering iron. Cyanoacrilate glue melts at about 225F.
Dave
Dave
I've had 4 wives but I still have my 60' 360!
