When adjusting the truss rods on a V63 bass;do you make
the adjustments to the neck with the strings lose or under tension ? Im changing from ROTOSOUND rounds to flats.
THANX FOR YOUR TIME...
RIC
Truss rod adjustments on v63 bass
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
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jwr2
On the modern Rics for the most part you should be able to adjust the truss rod with strings on and tensioned ... unless it has a neck problem ...
but any bass made before 1980 follow this procedure:
Back off both nuts, then retighten just until you feel contact with the bearing plate. Tune to pitch. You need to flex the neck back towards straightness before tightening the rods. This can be done using simple gravity and (very little) muscle, or with a clamping setup.
The quick and dirty way is to put the neck across your lap. Hold down the first few frets with your left hand. Let the body hang in space. The body's weight will straighten the neck somewhat while you tighten the rods with your right hand.
The more accurate, but more slow and cumbersome way: You need two pieces of wood slim enough to sit on the fingerboard between your D + A strings. Pad the sides that will touch the fingerboard with cork. You need a reasonably stiff board as long as the neck. Last, you need one clamp with padded jaws that opens to at least 9-10". Place one small piece between the nut and first fret, the other around the 15th fret. Rest the long board on edge on these two pieces. Place your clamp at the 6th fret. Apply just enough clamp tension so that the whole affair will not fall apart. Get your straightedge. Tighten the clamp until you're satisfied (I never go for a totally straight neck). Snug up the rods. Release the clamp, and check your progress.
but any bass made before 1980 follow this procedure:
Back off both nuts, then retighten just until you feel contact with the bearing plate. Tune to pitch. You need to flex the neck back towards straightness before tightening the rods. This can be done using simple gravity and (very little) muscle, or with a clamping setup.
The quick and dirty way is to put the neck across your lap. Hold down the first few frets with your left hand. Let the body hang in space. The body's weight will straighten the neck somewhat while you tighten the rods with your right hand.
The more accurate, but more slow and cumbersome way: You need two pieces of wood slim enough to sit on the fingerboard between your D + A strings. Pad the sides that will touch the fingerboard with cork. You need a reasonably stiff board as long as the neck. Last, you need one clamp with padded jaws that opens to at least 9-10". Place one small piece between the nut and first fret, the other around the 15th fret. Rest the long board on edge on these two pieces. Place your clamp at the 6th fret. Apply just enough clamp tension so that the whole affair will not fall apart. Get your straightedge. Tighten the clamp until you're satisfied (I never go for a totally straight neck). Snug up the rods. Release the clamp, and check your progress.
All I do with any Ric bass is stand it on the floor and flex the neck backwards a little bit with my hand on the nut (with my knee against the back of the neck, and the bottom of the bass against the floor with a little weight on it to keep it from moving) to take the pressure off the truss rod nuts and then turn them a little. this way you can also moniter the progress by sighting down the neck as you alternately tighten the truss rod nuts and release the tension to see how it is going. What kind of flatwounds are you putting on your bass? Depending on the tension of the strings, you may have to either loosen the nuts or tighten them. With 4003's it is not necessary to take tension off the neck, but I think it is prudent and does not hurt anything that I know of maybe JH has a different idea? This is a must with 4001's though, and also some post eighties basses like the two piece pickguard 4003's and original 4001's
I never loosen the strings, that won't work because when you tighten them up again the neck will bow again because of the tension, you need to be able to check the neck under tension to see how it is, you would end up tightening and loosening the strings 5 times perhaps that way.
I never loosen the strings, that won't work because when you tighten them up again the neck will bow again because of the tension, you need to be able to check the neck under tension to see how it is, you would end up tightening and loosening the strings 5 times perhaps that way.
RIC, Follow these instructions. This is how I adjust my '85 4001V63. Works great!
http://www.rickenbacker.com/us/neck.htm
cheers!
http://www.rickenbacker.com/us/neck.htm
cheers!