Spraying rigs

[rickfan60]

What kind of spraying rig to you favor for guitar finishes? Is there any merit to the HVLP multi-stage turbine systems sold these days?

[jingle_jangle]

I have always preferred a conventional compressor/spray gun "rig". Until 1998, I used standard siphon-type spray guns (which now would be termed "HPLV"...); a Binks #26 (no longer made; a lightweight gun "for female operators", which greatly reduced hand trauma) for larger areas, a #7 (still made) for really big stuff like cars, and a SATA miniJet for smaller stuff. I have never used an airbrush for guitar work; they just don't put out enough paint and are fussy to maintain.

In '98 I bought my first HVLPs--Binks M-1Gs. I still have them and they have yet to receive a rebuild. They're pricey, but worth every penny. However, most of my guitar color work these days is done using Sharp Finex FX300 guns, which are lightweight, durable, and put out the best and finest spray I've ever seen, and they cost less than $100.00. I use the Binkses for sealer and conversion varnish.

As far as I'm concerned, turbine systems are for kitchen cabinet guys to use on-site, because they are compact, portable, and leave a minimum of overspray. The few that I've tried over the years put out nice warm air, which is actually a disadvantage when using the type of paint we use on guitars (acrylic lacquers and urethanes for color, and toluene-thinned sealers and conversion varnish with fast-evaporating solvents) because they cause the thinners to evaporate too quickly, and can result in orange peel. They didn't seem to put out the volume of spray that I'm accustomed to.

I stick with conventional compressors, which I've been using since I bought my first one in 1967. I've got a 7 horse vertical in Brasil in my shop there, and here the school shop has twin Kaeser 10HP screw-types with built-in dryers, which I specced myself when I moved in.

You might be able to make the turbine-types work for you, but for a similar amount of money, I think you're better off with one of the $400.00 Campbell-Hausfeld units that Home Depot sells, hooked to one of those nice Finex guns.

[rickfan60]

Thanks for that, Paul. The turbine system was recomended by a cabinet guy. He likes one made by Wagner in particular. He says the warm air from most turbines can cause the finish material to harden on the cap and then fly off suddenly. Usually it lands on the work piece. But despite that risk, he likes it for the reasons you mentioned, little overspray and it is portable.

I realize this is probably a complex question but is there a rule of thumb for selecting caps and tips for CV application?

[gellkeller]

Ted, you must have read my mind. I was just going to ask the exact same question.

Paul, you mentioned the SATA product. How did you find it?

[jingle_jangle]

SATA guns are carried by most professional body shop supply places, and also online. Google the name and you're all set. I've gotten them from autobodytoolmart.com.

The miniJET is small but amazingly accurate and of course well-built (Germany). It also will set you back $275.00-300.00. The full-sized HVLP JET is around $400.00, I think.

The Sharpe Finex is the best bargain on the market in a smaller gun.

[gellkeller]

The reason I asked was because my father recommended that brand as he has used them professionally for a long time. I am going to twist his arm to teach me how to paint and I am really keen to try my hand at spraying CV.

My dad has been spraying for over 50 years and I thought it was time to see if I can pick his brain to pass on his God-given gift. I just hope I have some of his abilities deeply hidden in the darkest places of my genome. 15 years of IT-work certainly stifles the artist and creative side of you so who knows what will happen.


Paul, do you have a preference for Sherwin-WIlliams or PPG products?

[jingle_jangle]

Brett, best of luck! If you tough it out, you'll have a very satisfying hobby that could turn into a business if you don't watch out.

Regarding brands, both are good lines of products for professionals. I prefer PPG, but SW conversion varnish is a bit easier to work with, albeit not as tough as the PPG. (The SW product is for interior use, the PPG for exterior).

[gellkeller]

I hope it turns out to be a lot of fun. Paul, thanks again for the advice.

Rest assured, a lot of sanding ahead. A lot of sanding...

[jingle_jangle]

I tell students and customers alike that "sanding is what we do the most of, most days".

[gellkeller]

I was introduced to the "pleasures" of sanding by my father when I wanted to "do up" my first car.

It successfully cured me of all aspirations of following in my father's footsteps. I can now understand and appreciate the therapeutic and reflective side of it.

I suspected it would pretty much be the same process - coat after coat after coat with plenty of sanding in between.

[jingle_jangle]

'Zackly, Brett. Sanding can make a person reflective, or brain-dead. Or both, in turns...

[johnallg]

Sanding can make a person reflective, or brain-dead. Or both, in turns...

That explains a lot.....

[gellkeller]

and here was me thinking the fumes were to blame?

[johnallg]

Sanding can make a person reflective, or brain-dead. Or both, in turns...

That explains a lot.....

You know, re-reading this post today I can see where it can be taken as a negative comment. When I read what Paul wrote, I reflected on the times I've spent sanding and finishing wood over the years (I made a couple oak beds, reworked the woodwork in our house, built speakers, etc.) and realized just how much time you have for thinking over all kinds of things and times from throughout one's life. That is how I meant the comment. I had never really connected the two.

[jingle_jangle]

Never saw it as negative; saw it as TROOF.

At about the sixth hour of sanding and ruminating, I find myself staring at sandpaper as if it could talk to me.

So far, no wisdom.