Help me, Mr. Wizard!

[wayang]

Dr. JJ...since you're one of the world's foremost experts on 'phenolic coverings', etc. (that is to say: paint), I'm coming to you for some advice on 'compatibility'. A Balinese painter who's been playing with our group for the past year, I Made Sumayasa, has created a new stage set for us. It's a replica of a Balinese temple gate. Here's a shot of him with the central portion of it, the aling-aling, which depicts the hindu god Ganesha:

...he used latex wall paints, and now we want to 'seal' the work to prevent damage from humidity changes and transporting it, so here's my question: what can you recommend for this purpose that will not react with the latex? We need the resultant finish to be 'flat' (non-reflective), so that stage lighting will not produce a 'glare'...

It's preferable for us to use something that can be brushed on (vs. spraying), as the entire set is quite large and we will need to apply the sealant outdoors...fortunately, temps here this week are expected to climb into the 70's...

Thanks for your time and attention...

[jdogric12]

Here's a shot of him with the central portion of it, the aling-aling, which depicts

My aling-aling, my aling-aling, won't you play with my aling-aling...

[wayang]

Man, jdog...remind me never to order the pu-pu platter when you're at the table...

[jingle_jangle]

Dane, you can use a satin varnish like this:

http://www.minwax.com/products/oil_base ... hield.html

Or there is an excellent dead-flat one made in Canada:

http://fauxdepot.com/store/Varnishes.html

The Canadian one is about US$85.00 per gallon; both can be applied with rollers. Much quicker than brushes.

[scotty]

Dane,When hanging photographic wallcoverings and using a clear coat for protection i would strongly recommend an Acrylic Sealer over an oil based one in my experience oil will always yellow over time.Here is one i did a few months ago.A poor photo sorry
http://www.minwax.com/products/water_ba ... inish.html

[jingle_jangle]

Good point from a guy who does this for a living. Thanks, Scotty!

Every acrylic that I know is unavailable in no-gloss; the best I've seen is matte sheen. They are not as water-resistant as oil-based sealers (water drops often yield white spots), but would be great for all-indoor use. Anticipating that Dane's group plays both indoor and outdoor gigs, and knowing Colorado weather, I opted for the oil-based.

Oil-based finishes commonly contain UV inhibitors (especially those intended for furniture. I did not check the specific ingredients in the two I recommended, though.

[scotty]

Alas i have to concur with the big yin if its for ootside oil,if for inside use only water.
interestinly http://www.bartoline.co.uk/News_View.aspx?Articleid=6
http://www.icipaints.co.uk/products/201 ... mation.jsp
im such a geek

[jdogric12]

Man, jdog...remind me never to order the pu-pu platter when you're at the table...

Ha! I order that quite often from a local Chinese place.

[wayang]

Thanks, Dr. JJ and Scotty, for the great advice...we've never used the smaller set I built years ago outdoors, but we may have to consider the possibility of using this new one that way on occasion. I guess we'll have to weigh the pros and cons of it 'ambering' over time vs. getting rained on...or just decide that we won't use it outdoors. Either way, you've supplied me with good info for us to proceed. Terima kasih banyak!

And jdog...like I once told the plumbers on the crew, 'I love you guys, but sorry, I'm never going to an Ethiopian restaurant with you'...

[teb]

There is no way I would clearcoat that thing, especially with anything that has the words "yellow" or "yellowing" anywhere in the directions/cautions. That rules out nearly all oil-based coatings and anything with the word "spar" in it's name. Unless you are either incredibly good or incredibly lucky at applying the varnish, you will eventually end up with blotchy-looking areas where your coating thickness varies and it begins to yellow, which will show up clearly over the light-colored paint (especially white). You run the risk of eventually having a situation where the only way to clean it up is to repaint the whole thing (been there, done that on boats). Plain latex is much easier to touch up and match the colors. You may gain a slight bit of abrasion resistance from some types of topcoats, but if you think it will be enough to allow banging the panels on something without still being damaged, think again. The water-based varnishes are milky-white when you open the can and resist yellowing far longer than any oil-based products. If I absolutely had to coat it, that's what I'd use. Even so, touching up any dings will be easier without the topcoat.

Unless you're planning on setting it up outside and leaving it there for a few weeks, I don't think UV is a big enough problem to worry about. Latex paint, even interior latex, has a certain amount of UV resistance, just by it's nature. The top surface may eventually chalk a bit, but all that pigment will limit it to just the top. UV filtered varnishes need to be recoated on a fairly regular basis as they lose their ability to absorb UV (most convert UV to heat, so that it can dissapate harmlessly and in doing so, they get used up and eventually need to be replenished). With every additional coat of varnish, your chances for a blotchy topcoat increase.

[kiramdear]

I concur with my fellow boat-lover. Latex is a sealer. They paint houses with latex, don't they, and that lasts for years, 24/7 in the elements. Just touch it up when occasion calls for it.

Ha, some of the early "color field" painters, Joseph Stella for one, used latex house paints for their huge compositions. They eventually needed resotoration, even living in museum conditions, but I don't know if it was any bigger of a job than with oils.

I believe your choice of canvas is more important for avoiding problems. Choose a board, paper or fabric that is certified acid-free to begin with.

[wayang]

Shucks, Kira...I'm not even certified acid-free...

[kiramdear]

Dane,

Here is your print on acid-free paper:


And here is your print on non acid-free paper:


One of these is going to look the same with the passing of time. The other might not survive the next Phish concert..

[wayang]

Watch it, Kira...you're scaring the 'straights'...

[kiramdear]

and bless their hearts. Anyway, you put me up to it

No endorsements implied or suggested, folks. Just two souls laughing about the old days. Seriously