What the best way to get off old binding to prep for new purfling ?
Heat gun, tools, highly trained attack ferret ?
Now back to burning myself with Jasco......
I'd also like to remove the whole fretboard, so any ideas along those lines would help too.
Removing Body Binding
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Re: Removing Body Binding
To remove binding, I use an Exacto #5 handle equipped with a #18 flat chisel blade. This will also fit the more common #2 handle, but is most comfortable and controllable when fitted to the #5 handle. Simply insert it into the binding and use it to peel as a wedge, sliding it in the direction of the edge. The binding usually pries free easily, unless some previous numnutz has superglued it into place, in which case it'll be a five pint (minimum) evening.
http://www.dickblick.com/products/x-acto-blades/
You need heat to remove a fretboard, or highly-trained Jacarepaguá termites, at $35.00 per dozen plus import permits.

I use a beam heater, after pulling the frets. I fasten the beam to the board using cinch-tight nylon straps, and crank it up to around 300°F fort an hour or so. Then, I run a palette or skiving knife into the glue joint, proceeding carefully. The glue must be soft (hot) or you'll pull up neck wood at the same time.

http://www.dickblick.com/products/x-acto-blades/
You need heat to remove a fretboard, or highly-trained Jacarepaguá termites, at $35.00 per dozen plus import permits.

I use a beam heater, after pulling the frets. I fasten the beam to the board using cinch-tight nylon straps, and crank it up to around 300°F fort an hour or so. Then, I run a palette or skiving knife into the glue joint, proceeding carefully. The glue must be soft (hot) or you'll pull up neck wood at the same time.

Re: Removing Body Binding
Oh right, exacto I can do. Thanks !jingle_jangle wrote: I use a beam heater, after pulling the frets. I fasten the beam to the board using cinch-tight nylon straps, and crank it up to around 300°F fort an hour or so. Then, I run a palette or skiving knife into the glue joint, proceeding carefully. The glue must be soft (hot) or you'll pull up neck wood at the same time.
I'm really glad I asked about the neck, as mine's already been peeled up by the previous owner up to the second fret. I was just going to get underneath it with a heat gun, and from what you tell me, that might have resulted in a case of Tourettes before bedtime. I think I'll leave that job to an eminently more qualified individual (read:you).
Here's what it looks like. Tempting to try to peel that off huh ?
That 100 grit/Jasco/220 grit system is working well for removing the finish and sanding down. I never realised just how thick that was though ! No wonder that sucks up so much of your time on these jobs !
