Bubinga Top?

[atomic_punk]

I recently acquired a Spector bass with a bubinga body, it has a few marks on it from where the previous owner put "tape" on the upper horn. (WHY?) This created a lighter "stripe" on the top horn. Otherwise, great bass!
Anyway, I don't know much about how to treat bubinga, was hoping for maybe a few hints from someone who does? I can post pictures if helpful.

[jingle_jangle]

Yes, photos would help. I've got several ideas, and need photos to toss out the bad ones and come up with an answer.

This is sorta like "Guitar CSI", except my lab tests come back slower...

[atomic_punk]

Thank you sir, hopefully this will provide the evidence to crack the case..

[jingle_jangle]

Your "bubinga" bass was sprayed with a tinted top coat to make the final color more appealing. It may not be bubinga, in fact it looks like asian mahogany to me...hard to tell from closeups.

The bass should be stripped of hardware, lightly sanded to remove all of the tint, and re-tinted. I'd use nitro clear with some transparent red oxide added. If you want real protection after that, you can use flat conversion varnish like RIC does on the McCartney basses.

[atomic_punk]

Yeah, I thought it had some kind of stain on the wood that the tape peeled off with it. It doesn't have any finish on it now other than the stained wood.
Thanks, Paul. I had a feeling there would have to be some removal of the stain to get it looking right. I was thinking it might be more like the older 4004 model (cheyenne?) in terms of finish than a nitro, though? Could it be re-stained once the original finish is sanded off?

[jingle_jangle]

Steve, let's not get a stained finish confused with a "tint". A stain will actually penetrate the wood, and if this bass is actually bubinga it may be difficult to get it to take evenly. There are three types of guitar stains, based upon their solvents: water, alcohol, and petroleum distillates. Alcohol-based aniline stains work on anything with pores, so this would be my choice if staining a wood like this. Neither of the others is usable on this with any kind of predictable results.

A tint, on the other hand, is what many manufacturers (including RIC) use over an already-sealed and -filled wood surface. It's a see-through coating that provides a shell over the wood surface and, because it sits on top of the wood, it is easily controllable with regard to color and spread, no matter what the absorption qualities of the wood underneath. So, for instance, maple can look like walnut (at least as far as color goes; grain is another matter entirely).

Tints can be lacquer, urethane, alkyd, acrylic: virtually any paint solvent system is usable as a tint. A tint requires transparent tinting colors. Solid colors like white, Blue Boy, Turquoise, and, yes, Jetglo, are formulated with opaque, ground pigments.

A tint is what I'm recommending to duplicate the original finish on this instrument.

That having been said, you might want to try first stripping the finish off this bass (if it's nitro, a rag soaked in lacquer thinner will work well and quickly, although I'd still remove as much hardware as possible), and then treating it to the Watco's/fine steel wool wipedown and scrub. Watco's makes a number of different colors, and a new color called "Red Mahogany" would be just the ticket to give this pale rider some nice, warm color.

[jps]

Your "bubinga" bass was sprayed with a tinted top coat to make the final color more appealing. It may not be bubinga, in fact it looks like asian mahogany to me...

+1000!!!

[atomic_punk]

That's why I come to you with these kinds of questions, Paul. Thanks again for sharing your experience and knowledge.
Mainly, I just play 'em. I'm hoping to learn something about making this one look a little better while I play it.
I'll let you know what comes of it.