Rickenbacker bridge and saddle screws.
Moderator: jingle_jangle
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Ricky
Rickenbacker bridge and saddle screws.
While adjusting for intonation on my Ric 325v59, I had to move the saddle all the way back which still wasn't enough. I then had to unscrew the saddle screw to clip the spring so as to create more space. However, I seem to be unable to get the screw back into the hole after that. Should I just leave the screw alone and just make sure it does not move?
This is a situation that I have posted on numerous times since last December when i first went on line.
Do this ;
Measure the distance from the edge of the nut(the one up against the fretboard) to the center of the 12th fret.
Because the rick bridge is at a 90 degree angle to the stings I will give you the distance for the low 'E' saddle
Take that measurement and add 5/32" to it.
Lay your Yardstick so that one edge is in the center of the 12th fret amd the "compensated" length is over the low 'E' saddle.
you will find that the bridge needs to be moved away from the neck.
Here is what I do /reccommend that you do.
you will need some masking tape,a pencil,a ruler (NOT one of those cheap wooden yardsticks,unless thats all you can find)a 3/32" drill bit and a drill,a #1 phillips screw driver ,a tuner,a felt marker,and some patience.
Remove the bridge from the face and remove the plate the bridge sits on.Turn it over and mark on the back -BASS on one end
and - TREBLE on the other end.Trust me this needs to be done.You will find out later why.
With the stings loosened,you need to pull the strings over to the side .(I remove them because you will need to strobe tune when this is over,and new strings are the way to go).
Take a piece (or two) and cover the area that the bridge sits on.I would use some 1/2" or 3/4" tape.
BEFORE you stick this on the surface of the guitar...stick it on your pants leg.This will insure that when you remove the tape,you won't pull the finish with it!
End of part one
Do this ;
Measure the distance from the edge of the nut(the one up against the fretboard) to the center of the 12th fret.
Because the rick bridge is at a 90 degree angle to the stings I will give you the distance for the low 'E' saddle
Take that measurement and add 5/32" to it.
Lay your Yardstick so that one edge is in the center of the 12th fret amd the "compensated" length is over the low 'E' saddle.
you will find that the bridge needs to be moved away from the neck.
Here is what I do /reccommend that you do.
you will need some masking tape,a pencil,a ruler (NOT one of those cheap wooden yardsticks,unless thats all you can find)a 3/32" drill bit and a drill,a #1 phillips screw driver ,a tuner,a felt marker,and some patience.
Remove the bridge from the face and remove the plate the bridge sits on.Turn it over and mark on the back -BASS on one end
and - TREBLE on the other end.Trust me this needs to be done.You will find out later why.
With the stings loosened,you need to pull the strings over to the side .(I remove them because you will need to strobe tune when this is over,and new strings are the way to go).
Take a piece (or two) and cover the area that the bridge sits on.I would use some 1/2" or 3/4" tape.
BEFORE you stick this on the surface of the guitar...stick it on your pants leg.This will insure that when you remove the tape,you won't pull the finish with it!
End of part one
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
Part Two-locating the Rickenbacker bridge on a guitar.
After you have taped the face,get your straight edge/yardstick out and lay it on either side of the neck and in the are where the bridge goes,pencil in the line that is the edge of the fretboard continued to that area.Do both sides.
Now you have a really good idea of the center of the bridge.BUT WAIT!!! they don't do this at the factory and the slots/notches in the saddles need to be used to find true center .So,without screwing down the plate,put the bridge back on it and put the old strings that you loosened ,back onto the bridge .At least the low E and the high E.
The rest don't matter.
Tighten them and move the bridge to center the strings on the edge of the fretboard.NOT the lines that you drew on the body.
You need to locate the bridge 24&25/32" from the nut.This is where the low "E" string saddle will be.
Give yourself some space for the spring.About 3/16".This will give you plenty of room.
Now take your SHARP pencil and draw around the plate that the bridge sits on.
You now have your layout.
Remove the strings and get your drill ready.Mark your screw mounting hole with an ice pick,an awl,a nail, any sharp pointed object.
Drill the 3/32" hole .
Now remove the tape.DON'T pull it off as fast as you can! and pull it off at an angle .This will also help so you won't remove any finish .
Now ,make sure the bass side of the plate is indeed on the bass side and screw it down.Now the treble side.
Put the bridge on and string.
Strobe tune.This is the most accurate way to set intonation that I have found.I own two 'Peterson 420' strobe tuners.They take each note and divide it up into 100 parts .You can see how many cents of you are.If you don't have access to one of these ,find a repair shop that does and have them do this for you.It's well worth the $$$ spent to do this.For those of you in anyplace other than North America,Yamaha and Conn Strobe tuners are also really accurate.
Conn is now owned by Peterson and has been out of production for some time.
The quartz tuners ,just aren't as accurate-sorry!
That's it .
End of part two
After you have taped the face,get your straight edge/yardstick out and lay it on either side of the neck and in the are where the bridge goes,pencil in the line that is the edge of the fretboard continued to that area.Do both sides.
Now you have a really good idea of the center of the bridge.BUT WAIT!!! they don't do this at the factory and the slots/notches in the saddles need to be used to find true center .So,without screwing down the plate,put the bridge back on it and put the old strings that you loosened ,back onto the bridge .At least the low E and the high E.
The rest don't matter.
Tighten them and move the bridge to center the strings on the edge of the fretboard.NOT the lines that you drew on the body.
You need to locate the bridge 24&25/32" from the nut.This is where the low "E" string saddle will be.
Give yourself some space for the spring.About 3/16".This will give you plenty of room.
Now take your SHARP pencil and draw around the plate that the bridge sits on.
You now have your layout.
Remove the strings and get your drill ready.Mark your screw mounting hole with an ice pick,an awl,a nail, any sharp pointed object.
Drill the 3/32" hole .
Now remove the tape.DON'T pull it off as fast as you can! and pull it off at an angle .This will also help so you won't remove any finish .
Now ,make sure the bass side of the plate is indeed on the bass side and screw it down.Now the treble side.
Put the bridge on and string.
Strobe tune.This is the most accurate way to set intonation that I have found.I own two 'Peterson 420' strobe tuners.They take each note and divide it up into 100 parts .You can see how many cents of you are.If you don't have access to one of these ,find a repair shop that does and have them do this for you.It's well worth the $$$ spent to do this.For those of you in anyplace other than North America,Yamaha and Conn Strobe tuners are also really accurate.
Conn is now owned by Peterson and has been out of production for some time.
The quartz tuners ,just aren't as accurate-sorry!
That's it .
End of part two
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
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Ricky