PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Moderator: jingle_jangle
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
I can see that. These look like they appeared at the wing seams. I have another on the front I'll have to remove the hardware to get to. I'll likely do that within the next week.
After cleaning up the frets earlier and getting rid of the flashback, this thing will look mint.
I'm beginning to not miss the MG I had years ago now.
Oh, who am I kidding. Yeah, I miss that old bass too.
After cleaning up the frets earlier and getting rid of the flashback, this thing will look mint.
I'm beginning to not miss the MG I had years ago now.
Oh, who am I kidding. Yeah, I miss that old bass too.
-
- New member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:43 pm
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
I've lost the output on my bridge pickup and since I'll have to remove hardware to sort it out, I figured I'd go ahead and give my 4001 the Scratch Doctor/Zymol treatment. I think I know the answer to my question, but it never hurts to be sure.
There's an area on the back below the upper horn where the finish has been abraded away (hey, it's 37 years old, and was steadily gigged for 18 or so of those!). Lookie here:
Here's a closeup:
I know it's a prime candidate for refinishing, but that's not in the cards just now (maybe next year). Meanwhile, is there any reason to avoid this area with either Scratch Doctor or Zymol?
There's an area on the back below the upper horn where the finish has been abraded away (hey, it's 37 years old, and was steadily gigged for 18 or so of those!). Lookie here:
Here's a closeup:
I know it's a prime candidate for refinishing, but that's not in the cards just now (maybe next year). Meanwhile, is there any reason to avoid this area with either Scratch Doctor or Zymol?
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Yes, you should avoid those raw wood areas with your "treatment". They will leave a chalky white residue in the pores and grain. I found this out by experience. If it happens, though, there is another product that Paul mentioned that will clean up the residue. I forget what it's called ... maybe Paul will pipe up here and remind me.
All I wanna do is rock!
- rickenbrother
- RRF Moderator
- Posts: 13103
- Joined: Sun May 26, 2002 5:00 am
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
It looks like the finish in that area is worn down to bare wood. I'd avoid getting anything wet, including Scratch-X and Zymol near that area.
I'd only use a product that has Paul W's approval there, that Kira mentions.
I'd only use a product that has Paul W's approval there, that Kira mentions.
The JETGLO finish name should be officially changed to JETGLO ROCKS!
- jingle_jangle
- RRF Moderator
- Posts: 22679
- Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 6:00 am
- Contact:
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Hmmm...wish I could remember what I recommended to protect bare wood...
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
I thought Kira was stating something about removing residue if you accidentally got zymol or Scratch-X on bare wood...
Kira states:
I would think some sort of wood oil (tung/teak?) would remove the residue but I'm no wood expert.
Kira states:
Am I reading this wrong?I found this out by experience. If it happens, though, there is another product that Paul mentioned that will clean up the residue.
I would think some sort of wood oil (tung/teak?) would remove the residue but I'm no wood expert.
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Scott is correct, Paul. You wrote about a "restore-a-finish", or "renew-a-finish", some product name like that, that you said would clean the residue out from the raw wood areas on my 430 ... ring a bell?
All I wanna do is rock!
- rickenbrother
- RRF Moderator
- Posts: 13103
- Joined: Sun May 26, 2002 5:00 am
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Who'sie-Whatses Bare Wood Protector?jingle_jangle wrote:Hmmm...wish I could remember what I recommended to protect bare wood...
*ducks for cover from thrown shoe*
The JETGLO finish name should be officially changed to JETGLO ROCKS!
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
I would hesitate to put oil on the wood, in case I ever wanted to do a nice re-finish.
All I wanna do is rock!
-
- New member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:43 pm
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Yeah, oils and waxes seem like a bad idea.
It's easy enough to avoid the affected area while polishing, and I promise not to bathe with it or take it out in the rain. It is indeed to down to bare wood, and it's obviously picked up dirt and sweat, and possibly small doses of fermented beverages. Should I attempt to clean the patch, and if so, with what? Or just let it go until it can be refinished?
It's easy enough to avoid the affected area while polishing, and I promise not to bathe with it or take it out in the rain. It is indeed to down to bare wood, and it's obviously picked up dirt and sweat, and possibly small doses of fermented beverages. Should I attempt to clean the patch, and if so, with what? Or just let it go until it can be refinished?
Google turns up bupkis on a search for this particular product.rickenbrother wrote: Who'sie-Whatses Bare Wood Protector?
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
I have NO idea what to do with those skinny stringed things... I'm just a bass player...
- jingle_jangle
- RRF Moderator
- Posts: 22679
- Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 6:00 am
- Contact:
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Grand confusion. I recommended Howard's to fill in scratches on a 430, and Kira's 430 is not maple--it's mahogany, a much more open grained hardwood. The Howard's penetrates and fills the damaged wood fibers, making scratches much less obvious.
There's nothing around that will help large unfinished areas on a maple Rick of any model, in this manner. Maple is a very close-grained wood, and difficult to penetrate.
However, it wouldn't hurt to wipe it with some Xylene or solvent-based wax and grease remover, scuff it with some #00 steel wool to remove as much of the dirt as possible, let dry a day, and lightly brush on some clear lacquer or varnish to protect the area until a refinish can be accomplished.
There's nothing around that will help large unfinished areas on a maple Rick of any model, in this manner. Maple is a very close-grained wood, and difficult to penetrate.
However, it wouldn't hurt to wipe it with some Xylene or solvent-based wax and grease remover, scuff it with some #00 steel wool to remove as much of the dirt as possible, let dry a day, and lightly brush on some clear lacquer or varnish to protect the area until a refinish can be accomplished.
-
- New member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:43 pm
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Thanks, Paul!
Do I have to worry about Xylene taking off the CV?
Do I have to worry about Xylene taking off the CV?
- jingle_jangle
- RRF Moderator
- Posts: 22679
- Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 6:00 am
- Contact:
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Nope. It's a relatively mild solvent.
-
- New member
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:43 pm
Re: PRIMER ON THE CARE AND FEEDING OF RICK FINISHES
Great. I'll hold off on the pup repair and overall polishing until I can do this task.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.