Not a good day for 12-strings ...

[rickenbrother]

I'd better check the G strings on my 12 string bass!

[just_bassics]

I bought my first 12 string in '86, an Alvarez. Two hours later, when I walked back into the store, the salesman reached into a box of loose strings and fished out an octave G. I didn't even have to ask, he knew why I was there!

[johnhall]

Both a .007 and a .010 string have the same 21% safety factor. (20% is considered normal for guitars.) However, I think there are two other factors making the heavier string less prone to breaking.

First, the actual string tension of the .007 when tuned to g(1) is less than half that of the .010, so it's pretty easy to accidentally pull/push that string beyond the breaking point.

Second, the ball end of the .007 string is much more fragile, as the "knot" point forces the smaller string into a sharper bend because of the disproportionally reduced stiffness (Cubed? Squared? Engineers- break out your column deflection formulas!) and the lower tension.

On a test bench where the strings are clamped and there's no break angles involved anywhere, for open strings tuning only, the .007 will go much higher before breaking but it doesn't happen that way in the real world.

[elreydlp]

Good points John. The other factors besides tension you brought up certainly could contribute to string breakage. My experience with electric 12's goes back to 1965 when I bought a Fender Electric XII (Rickenbacker didn't have a dealer in Charleston, SC). I have played or owned a lot of different electric 12's in the years since. I change the high "G" to an 8-not so much to prevent breakage, (I've never broken ANY string on my Rick, and I change strings on it every 2-3 years) as to improve tuning at the first 3-5 frets. I find that the lower tension helps prevent the string from pulling sharp in comparison to the lower "G" in the pair.
By comparison, I have broken high octave strings-not just the "G"-on other electric and acoustic 12's. I attribute it to the high octave strings location at the top of the pair and not having the low octave string there to take the punishment.
I think Gary's problem is more a saddle issue. Check the saddle slots for burrs and rough spots; put graphite, Big Bends Nut Sauce, or Dr. Duck's Axe Wax in the saddle slots; or if this fails, try SRV's trick of putting the plastic insulation stripped from a thin electrical wire over the string and in the nut slot.

[egosheep]

That's what you get for playing Rickenbacker 12 strings!

[jingle_jangle]

1. Any day is a good day for G strings, of course depending upon the, ahem, context.

2. Octave Gs are the only strings that ever break when I'm restringing a Rick 12, although more common with acoustic octave Gs (Martin .010 set) and Thomastik flatwounds than Rick 12 string sets. I don't think a Rick octave G has ever broken for/against me.

3. Avoid Takamine and Epi acoustic strings like the plague--I've had nothing but trouble with both these brands.

That is all...

[analogpackrat]

If the break happened at the tuner end, check for burrs there as well. My '72 360-12 went through a couple or three G octaves in a short period of time (including one that didn't make it through initial tune-up). I got out the 20x loupe and, sure enough, there were some pretty rough spots around the octave G peg hole. A little careful work with tiny strips of 600 and 1000 grit sand-paper and the burrs were gone. No problems since--knock on maple-shedua-maple. I keep a small stash of 9s and 10s just in case...

[ramblero]

This is an interesting discussion.....

I just acquired a used (in very good condition) 360 12. The seller lowered the tension on the strings for shipping (which Ric says should NOT be done, BTW) and when I retuned it...guess what??? #6 (G^) broke. No prob, says I and I emailed the seller to get the string dimensions/mfg data and trotted down to my local music store and got a .008 D'Addario string, installed it, tuned up...and BAM!!! it breaks. Now I'm less happy.

Go back to the store several days later...and buy TWO .008's and an .010 just to be safe. Install the 1st .008...and SNAP!!! Install the 2nd .008...and the same.... OK, ok....the .010 will CERTAINLY solve the problem.

I'm now sitting here wistfully looking at my 11 string guitar....and wondering..... What do I do now????

(BTW....NEVER had a string break on my Vox Phantom XII...in over 45 years that I've owned it....nor on any of the Martin, Goya, Gibson or Gretsch guitars I've owned...)

Major Bummer....

[libratune]

Where are the octave-G strings breaking? If at the tuner post, the edge of the post-hole may be too sharp. You should be able to file around the edges of the hole (with a small round file) to smooth them out.

If the strings are breaking at the bridge, make sure the notch for that string doesn't have a sharp edge to it.

If you don't have small fles, this sould be a quick fix at your local reputable guitar shop.

[ramblero]

Well...I was hoping the break location would be consistent....but it's random. The 1st break was an inch or 2 from the tuner shaft hole...and the next string close to the tuner shaft hole. So the 3rd string was wrapped at least 4 or 5 turns around the take-up shaft before the tension became significant. That string broke at the the factory wrapping around the ball end. Go figure. The last (.010) break was 3 or 4 inches from the ball end. Trés bizarre. My next plan is to retune down a full note...or two.

On a different note....I was astounded to learn that the 360/12 (at least) has a full floating bridge!!!! I've NEVER seen a guitar like this!!!!! (I first learned this immediately after significantly detuning the strings in order to lower the action, having read the numerous posts about stripping the bridge screws, (and reversing my initial attempt...which, in fact, RAISED the action...don't ask) and, to my significant alarm, noticed that the bridge had nearly toppled over! I quickly took some blood pressure medication, chanted my mantra and, taking this all in stride, calmed down enough to reset the bridge and lowering the action, figuring out that it was the string tension which holds the bridge in place..... Whew!

I can hardly wait to see what will be next...

Thanks for the suggestion, tho...

[BuddyDog]

I popped the low "E" the other day on the C63 after a truss rod adjustment (broke at the tuning peg) so took a set of TI's to my tech for a full restring. The low "E" broke on him, too. He used a D'Addario chrome flatwound to replace the TI (since I didn't have another set of TI's).

I was surprised he just didn't use the E from the set of Rickenbacker stings in the case.

[JakeK]

When I brought my 360/12V64 to IVG, Jack the tech said to wind each string about 1 time less than you would a regular guitar around the tuning post. "Over-winding it," Jack said, "will not only increase your string tension, but also increase the likeliness of breakage, whether your playing or tuning."

I just PM'd this to Steve, and maybe it will help here, but should a low "E" string break, that probably means you have a bad string.

I'm sorry you keep breaking the octave "G", John. Again, winding it one less time than you would a regular guitar should help. And if not, I'm SURE Paul W can help you and give you some tips on how to prevent breakage in the future.

[BuddyDog]

Thanks for the tip, Jake. See you at SCARF!

I'm not going to lose sleep over a string break and I have another set of TI's in the case for back-up.

Now if it was an issue about the ramp width or lack of flame in the top or non-advertised prices then I might have to get wound up

[JakeK]

Okay...time to dig out this thread for some help...

I have a problem with my 360/12V64. It has been out of commission since New Year's Eve, and I figured it was time for a restringing. I chose TI flats from Pick of the Ricks, and consistently, the octave G keeps breaking, and snaps right out at the ball end, which goes flying across the room. My tech broke the string from the original package, and I've gotten two spares from Chris Clayton, both of which broke upon installation, nowhere close to pitch. I halfway thought about ordering a set of Pyramid round cores for a complete changeover only because I've become too ashamed to keep asking Chris Clayton for spare octave Gs for TI flats.

Can anyone help me with what could be the problem? I've already posed the question to Larry Davis.

[deaconblues]

If the string breaks right at the ball end every time, maybe there is a rough area underneath the tailpiece hole that needs filing. Or maybe the regular G string running through that hole is rubbing against the octave string -- can you reverse them?

...try SRV's trick of putting the plastic insulation stripped from a thin electrical wire over the string and in the nut slot.

Worth a shot.

It's a plain string, right? Why not just get a bunch of .007 singles from Guitar Center? Surely that's cheaper and easier than replacing an entire set of T.I.'s over one broken string.