can my dead 1960s toaster be reanimated?
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- Sir Ricardo
- Intermediate Member
- Posts: 679
- Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2009 2:58 pm
can my dead 1960s toaster be reanimated?
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Sad day. Wringing of hands. My "new" guitar, a 1960s 365, bought off eBay, has arrived with a non-functional neck pickup. I'll deal with the seller...but meanwhile, what can I do about this pickup?
I've unsoldered the pickup from the pots. There is no reading when I test the leads.
Now, I'm testing the underside of the pickup.
Here is what I notice.
As you can see in the photo, there appear to be 3 things to touch with the ohmeter.
1) the wire on the left (which is soldered/attached to the case of the pickup)
2) the wire on the right
3) the little soldery thing in the middle
Here are the ohm readings
If I touch 1+2, I get "0"
If I touch 1+3, I get "1"
If I touch 2+3, I get "1"
For comparison's sake, I've done the same thing with another Ric pickup, and if I touch (1 or 2) with 3, I get 7.48k ohms.
So there appears to be something defective with this pickup. I should be getting a reading of about 7-8k ohms when I touch the soldery thing in the middle and simultaneously touch either of the 2 visible wires. But I get a "1" instead, meaning no connectivity.
What are my options?
I could have it rewound.
Any other things to try?
thanks much -
Richard
============================================
Sad day. Wringing of hands. My "new" guitar, a 1960s 365, bought off eBay, has arrived with a non-functional neck pickup. I'll deal with the seller...but meanwhile, what can I do about this pickup?
I've unsoldered the pickup from the pots. There is no reading when I test the leads.
Now, I'm testing the underside of the pickup.
Here is what I notice.
As you can see in the photo, there appear to be 3 things to touch with the ohmeter.
1) the wire on the left (which is soldered/attached to the case of the pickup)
2) the wire on the right
3) the little soldery thing in the middle
Here are the ohm readings
If I touch 1+2, I get "0"
If I touch 1+3, I get "1"
If I touch 2+3, I get "1"
For comparison's sake, I've done the same thing with another Ric pickup, and if I touch (1 or 2) with 3, I get 7.48k ohms.
So there appears to be something defective with this pickup. I should be getting a reading of about 7-8k ohms when I touch the soldery thing in the middle and simultaneously touch either of the 2 visible wires. But I get a "1" instead, meaning no connectivity.
What are my options?
I could have it rewound.
Any other things to try?
thanks much -
Richard
============================================
Re: can my dead 1960s toaster be reanimated?
Send it to Sergio Silva.
Re: can my dead 1960s toaster be reanimated?
+1collin wrote:Send it to Sergio Silva.
It is better, of course, to know useless things than to know nothing. - Seneca
- Sir Ricardo
- Intermediate Member
- Posts: 679
- Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2009 2:58 pm
Re: can my dead 1960s toaster be reanimated?
.
Nothing else to try, short of a re-wind?
Nothing else to try, short of a re-wind?
Re: can my dead 1960s toaster be reanimated?
You might pose that question to Sergio ...
It is better, of course, to know useless things than to know nothing. - Seneca
Re: can my dead 1960s toaster be reanimated?
Richard, the winding is shorted out. I would take a really good look at where the gray shielded wire is attached to the pickup. The wires 1 and 2 are both the shielding and internal end of the winded coil. Wire #3 is the outside of the coil winding and the center conductor of the shielded cable. I'd look for a short right there at the solder blob area - or corrosion that goes between that blob/wire to the shield. I'm betting the coil is alright.
- Sir Ricardo
- Intermediate Member
- Posts: 679
- Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2009 2:58 pm
Re: can my dead 1960s toaster be reanimated?
John, I bet you are right......yet when I inspect the blob area I see nothing amiss.johnallg wrote:Richard, the winding is shorted out. I would take a really good look at where the gray shielded wire is attached to the pickup. The wires 1 and 2 are both the shielding and internal end of the winded coil. Wire #3 is the outside of the coil winding and the center conductor of the shielded cable. I'd look for a short right there at the solder blob area - or corrosion that goes between that blob/wire to the shield. I'm betting the coil is alright.
I've gently cleaned out the depression that the blob resides in, in an effort to remove any corrosion that might be contributing to a short. No luck.
I wonder what else I could do that would solve the "short" possibility?
thanks much -
Richard
Re: can my dead 1960s toaster be reanimated?
If you were to unsolder the center wire of the gray shielded wire at that blob and ohm from wires 1 & 2 to the blob you would see just the coil (about 7k or so). If you read good, then ohm from the switch end of the gray wire, shield to center wire, and see if it shows zero ohms, a dead short. I'm betting this is what you will find.
Re: can my dead 1960s toaster be reanimated?
If it's not considered ill-mannered to say, I can fix that for you if Sergio is unavailable.
(not shilling, just offering to help)
(not shilling, just offering to help)
Re: can my dead 1960s toaster be reanimated?
I got your PM, but for some reason when I reply it only stays in my outbox, can you email me at the address in my signature link?
Re: can my dead 1960s toaster be reanimated?
PMs will stay in your outbox until the recipient reads them...Redhouse wrote:I got your PM, but for some reason when I reply it only stays in my outbox, can you email me at the address in my signature link?
I have NO idea what to do with those skinny stringed things... I'm just a bass player...
Re: can my dead 1960s toaster be reanimated?
BTW Brad, you did not break custom with your post; in fact, it's always nice to hear of others who can help out.
It is better, of course, to know useless things than to know nothing. - Seneca
Re: can my dead 1960s toaster be reanimated?
Of course, it can, by... Photo of Sergio!can my dead 1960s toaster be reanimated?