New project bass - critical condition!!!

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destroyyoualot

New project bass - critical condition!!!

Post by destroyyoualot »

Hello all, first post on the board here, and I'm definitely impressed with the amount of knowledge, talent, and dedication displayed here. I've got a serious rehab project bass, and I'm hoping to get some opinions/advice on how to proceed with this. (Warning - get ready to get angry when you see what someone did to this bass.)

[img]http://tinypic.com/kwacn[/img]
<img>

That's right. Someone (I have no idea who, but if I ever get my hands on'em...) sawed down the horns, (sloppily) routed out a new pickup hole, covered this thing in two colors of house paint, and then removed ALL the hardware. What you see here, I got for $25, and took the majority of the paint off to see what was underneath. Here's another view:

[img]http://tinypic.com/kwaio[/img]
<img>

I have no idea what year/model this thing is, as the jackplate and any markings are long gone. It appears to be maple throughout, one-piece neck, dual truss rods, and what finish is left where the neck pickup was seems to suggest that it was, at one point, mapleglo. The wood isn't all that spectacularly figured though, from what I can tell, so it could have been an opaque finish. The fingerboard inlays are mother-of-pearl-ish triangles, and the binding (what's left) is a single thin strip of black, plastic-ish material. Twin output jacks. That's about all I can think of to descibe this thing, if anyone has any questions that could help identify the year or model, fire away. I can take detail pics, if it would help.

Here's the back:

[img]http://tinypic.com/kwal0[/img]
<img>

So, here's my thoughts: The actual wood is fairly intact, I could probably just slap hardware on this bass and play it, looking like hell. Not gonna do it. Even with a re-finish, I just can't bear the pointy horns - it just doesn't look... Ricky. As far as I can figure, my options are:

a) Remove the body wings entirely (along the neck blank) and cut new ones, from maple or something more exotic.

b) Cut lengthwise from the points where the horns (and the binding) got cut, attach new wings from there. This would need a new binding strip, and I would probably want to make a veneer cover for the front, ala the dumpster bass. (The maple isn't that amazing, anyway, and I definitely want a wood finish.)

c) Simply fashion new horns, and cut the existing ones square to attach them. (Definitely would need a veneer to hide this.)


This is probably my only chance to own a Rick, at least in this half-century. ;) I want to make it beautiful, but moreso I want to make it playable. No matter what I do, it won't be exactly an original Rick, but it could be a great piece, with enough TLC. I'm a pretty experienced wooodworker, and I feel confident enough to attempt this, especially after seeing some of the miracles pulled off on this board. I would greatly appreciate any advice and feedback as to how to go forward with this, especially as far as techniques, woods, and finishes. I have some aspirations towards being a practicing luthier at some point, so this will be my jumping-off point, hopefully. Thanks in advance,

Steve
rickfan60
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Post by rickfan60 »

Killer axe dude!

Yes, I would take the body wings off and remake them from scratch. If it is done right, the repair would be undetectable.
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henny
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Post by henny »

Definitely - Take the wings off.

That'll be one hell of a special bass when it's done. Good luck, man. We'll be routing for ya.

It's also got black trim. Cool.

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Post by jaymi »

make new wings. Our friend Ted is the man when it comes to this...
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Post by jaymi »

By the way, the additional rout at the neck where the pickup cavity is was factory carved because this was an early 4003 with the trussrods adjusting at the body. Also the lack of walnut body stripe reveals it as a 4003. I just rebuilt one of these. This body actaully takes the old style rods but they adjust at the body. At the very least, this is a 1980 and as new as 1985-6ish
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aceonbass
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Post by aceonbass »

Besides cutting off and replacing the body wings, square off the extra pickup route and cut a block of maple to fit. Do this before you cut the wings off. You can route the new wings for binding but I'd contour it like a 4000,4004 for comfort. I've got a set of Vintage style knobs and Schaller/RIC straplock buttons and can make a pickguard(black or white) for $65.00 including shipping for everything. Mike parks has the tuners($60.00)bridge pickup($125.00) nut($6.00), wiring harness($45.00). Neck pickups can be had for about $90.00-$100.00 depending on which one you want(might I suggest a 4004 humbucker instead of a high gain or toaster). The tailpieces are unavailable right now but turn up on E-Bay periodically and I think I have an extra bridge. The Ric-O-Sound jackplates are impossible to get but if you're willing to go mono, you can get a really close looking jackplate from AllParts for about $5.00. Well there is my wish list of suggestions. I hope this gives you an idea of what's ahead.
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Post by rickfan60 »

It is better to heat the wings off rather that cut them. That way you start with nicely pre-joined wood and there is no lost material.
destroyyoualot

Post by destroyyoualot »

Jaymi: The nuts on the truss rods are actually at the headstock, at least the ones you could conceivably turn. Does this mean anything to you? Or, was that not what you meant by "adjusting at the body"? Either way, thanks for the info.

Dane: It actually just occurred to me today to make a filler block for that route - but I'm curious, what would the advantage be of doing it before I remove the wings? It seems to me it'd be easier to make it clean after they were off - or is it for strength? Plus, it had occurred to me to use the wood from the old wings to make the block. ;) I won't be buying parts until after the holidays, but I'll probably start the woodwork as soon as I have a clear picture of how to proceed.

Ted: Thanks for the advice, it was actually your work with that 4003 with the grey epoxy junk that inspired me to try new wings. Speaking of which, where could I get ahold of one of those PVC heating blankets you used? Are they available for rent at Home Depot or someplace similar? I can't really see buying one just for this project, at least not yet.

I'm borrowing an eighties-era Rick to trace the body shape on Saturday, and then I should know how much maple I'll need. (Are there any other "acceptable" woods I might try?) I'll probably buy twice what I need, to have pieces to "experiment" on. I really want to take my time with this one, if I screw it up I don't have another one!

Here's a consideration: Binding. Not sure whether I want to go this route (get it? Ok, sorry...) yet, but if I do I'll probably want to route it out before attaching the wings, huh? Where can I get info on purchasing binding and any needed tools?

I'm not gonna bother taking off any more paint (other than the back) or cleaning up the wood any more until I attach the wings, as I'd only have to clean shop dirt off afterwards, anyway. So, guess the first step is making the wings - I wouldn't want to detach the old ones until I had the new ones mostly done for comparison. Hmmm...

(Thanks for all the input, I'll post pics as soon as I have'em.)

Steve
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Post by rickfan60 »

I bought my pvc blanket from a local contractor supply but you can probably get one from Home Depot or another hardware store.

Maple would be your default choice but you can certainly use other woods. I have been wondering how a purpleheart Rick would look. Just remember that the tone will change if you use something other than maple. Also, you could significantly increase the weight if you use something like bubinga. On the other hand, walnut is very light.
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Post by rickfan60 »

Binding and binding tools can be had from Stewart MacDonald http://www.stewmac.com . There are other sources but Stewmac has an excellent online store and they have a lot of tools and supplies. With your first order you will get the catalog which is more complete than the website. Checkerboard binding is another matter entirely. That is nearly impossible to find these days. You pretty much just have to luck into it.
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Post by jaymi »

This appears to be either a transition bass or an early 90's that someone worked over. If the adjuster nuts are at the headstock, then someone routed up to the neck and that is no fun either...
78 Purple 4001
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89 Mid Blue
91 Mid Blue
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Post by rhinobass »

"This is probably my only chance to own a Rick, at least in this half-century."

If money is the issue, I will suggest to you that it might be more expensive to do what you are doing than it would be to simply save up some money and buy a nondescript used Rick off E-Bay.
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Post by aceonbass »

The advantage to installing the filler block before removing the wings was that if they were cut off, you'd have a nice uniform cut. If they are steamed off then it should be installed before. The routing on the headstock indicates trussrod adjustment there and therefore this bass is a 4001. Using something other than maple for the body wings would probably neccesitate using the same would to make new headstock wings. While it may be cheaper to just buy another used bass, this project poses the opportunity to have something truely one of a kind which could be paid for a little bit at a time as cash becomes available.
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Post by rickfan60 »

This is clearly a 4003. There is no walnut stripe and the shape of the neck pickup route is consistent with that of the 4003. I did not notice the removal of wood behind the neck pickup route before. I thought it was just some residual paint. It presents a bit of a challenge. Should it be squared off and filled and then covered with a vintage style guard or should it be filled and then taken down about 3/8ths and covered with a nice figured top and any guard?

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Post by rickfan60 »

The cat seems to be very concerned.
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