New project bass - critical condition!!!

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jnbass
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Post by jnbass »

nah he's just a p_ssy..
Buy it before someone else does
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atomic_punk
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Post by atomic_punk »

It's just too much for me to take...The wings filed down, the routes, (shivering...)
"They make great f***'n basses". - Lemmy, NAMM 2009
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ricosound
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Post by ricosound »

Stephen,
I echo the sentement of some here. I'm not sure how you came to aquire this gem, but you must seriously consider its value vs. investment. You have no hardware, electronics, serial number, or TRC. What you have in effect is a chunck of firewood that no longer bears much resemblence to a Rick. You would far exceed the value in just parts aquisition cost. The reason this thing is in its sad shape, is the rest of it went to restore/repair other guitars. I have learned the hard way in the car restoration hobby that some examples just become parts cars to be scavenged; such is your bass body. The thing is routed, the truss rods are messed, the distinctive body shape is mutilated. Run of the mill early 4003s can be had for 500-600 bucks. If it had come with anything more to work with maybe. The stuff Ted and others have been working on were busted up, but at least complete. Sorry, that's my $.02 worth. Good luck.
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tony_carey
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Post by tony_carey »

'Frankenstein' comes to mind!
'Rickenbacker'...what a name! After all these years, it still thrills me.
rickfan60
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Post by rickfan60 »

It's not so bad. I once started with this...........

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ricosound
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Post by ricosound »

Yes Ted "this" came with some wood and hardware. Also with your experience, you might just have enough extra stuff around to piece it together. My point is it's not worth it if you have to buy all the bits on the open market.
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ojobob2
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Post by ojobob2 »

Wes i agree- you might sink $$$ into this only to find it really doesent play all that good. spend the same $$$ on a used 4003 in good shape and its just there and you can enjoy it.
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cheyenne
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Post by cheyenne »

But,,,,,,, it does have value as a powerful learning tool.

This is a great project to cut ones teeth on. I say go for it! If you mess it up, its not like you've really ruined anything. Look at all the things you will learn about Ric construction, how do you think people learn how to do these kind of repairs?

Who knows, it may turn into something really special.

As far as value, I agree, you'll never get your money back out of it, but its value to you, may far exceed its dollar worth.
"Knowledge is Power"
rickfan60
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Post by rickfan60 »

Ding, Ding, Ding!!! You are correct Mr. Doseck! Yes, learning is what it is all about. Really F'd up instruments like this present excellent opportunities for those with a technical bent. There is still enough solid engineering under that ****** paint and mangled wood for someone to develop new skills. It is not about short term financial practicality but self improvement. Many people like a challenge once in a while. Turning a mess like this into a playable instrument is a VERY rewarding experience. Sharing that experience during or after the project can then help others with similar curiosities get started.
destroyyoualot

Post by destroyyoualot »

I'm pretty committed to finish this project, and if parts come out to under $500 (my total so far), then I end up with a bass that's unique, should play great, and that I built. That's worth it, to me. I took a tracing of a friend's 4001 this weekend, so I have a pattern to work with. Next step is to track down some nicely figured maple. considering the state of the routing, and a bit of scarring on the exposed wood on the neck blank, I may make a thin laminate from the wood that I buy, to match it with the new body wings. I'll keep you posted.
destroyyoualot

Post by destroyyoualot »

Ok, so, while I'm waiting on the wood, here's some other considerations. The style I play is mostly a technical metal style, and I play pretty lightly with my fingers. The bass I play now (a Dean Hollywood) has active pickups (EMGs) for high output. Now, I'm not sure I want to go as far as doing that to my Rick (and I don't want you guys to throw me off the forum! ;) ), but I do want as high an output and as punchy a response as I can get. The sound I'm going for is super-growly mids, really round, without necessarily being distorted. I generally play over the bridge pickup, to get a growly sound and to reduce "clacking". So, what can you guys tell me about my options for pickups? Also, I was playing on my friend's 4001, and I couldn't seem to find a happy medium between resting my thumb on the pickup cover and the pickup itself. So, I'm considering adding a thumbrest to the bass while I'm working on it. Any thoughts?
destroyyoualot

Post by destroyyoualot »

Also, what's the deal with this capacitor everyone seems to be removing from their 4001s? I'm considering reccommending this to my friend with the 4001, his sounds a bit dead, and he'd probably appreciate an easy way to brighten up his sound.
rickfan60
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Post by rickfan60 »

The bass cut capacitor (.0047mFd) runs from the switch to the treble volume pot. When removed, the tone of the bass opens up a bit. There is more bottom end. I have never really gotten all of the details on it but back in the days of flatwounds and less capable amps, it prevented the tone from being too muddy. The cap is no longer part of the circuit and some people take them out to improve the tone.
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jps
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Post by jps »

Stephen,
I have a couple of pickups you may be interested in. I just replaced the pickups in my new 4003FL so there is a neck higain and the bridge higain available. The only thing is I am using the mounting plate from the bridge pickup for the toaster I put there, but Jared can make you one! This is just the pickup with the magnet on the bottom, no surround or anything, but those can be had easily. These sound great with lots of gain and good tone, the kind that Jeff Rath prefers for "modern" music as he puts it. Let me know if you are interested.
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