Fretless Available - I'm Gonna Grab It

[coolingitdown]

I've been using La Bella white tapewounds gauged .050-.105 on my 1997 4003FL and have been quite pleased with the result. I like them because they won't damage the fingerboard. In addition, they are stainless steel strings inside of nylon tape, so they are quite a bit brighter than most tapewounds.

Edit: almost forgot. Congrats on the acquisition! I would have jumped on that one too.

[rictified]

For strings I've been using Elixir light gauge nanoweb coated strings, they are not quite as bright as round wounds out of the box but sound good and last a LONG time and they're round wounds but won't eat up the fretboard. I started out on a fretless P bass and it took me a long time to get used to the Rickenbacker dot per note scheme but I did get used to it. I have also covered up the extra dots at times but would rather get used to all the dots. If I were you I'd get two original pickups for it and a new pick guard. Rick fretless basses sound really good and no they don't make them anymore.
They started using regular side markers from the fretted basses with the dots in the middle of where the fret would have been, talk about getting thrown off! I know there are some people here with them that like them but I got rid of mine soon after I got it, it was a nice Blue Boy fretless too. I know we spoke about it with JH several (maybe 5-6?) years ago and they stopped offering them shortly after, not sure if it had anything to do with us complaining or not.

[edski]

I'm using GHS Brite Flats on my FL now.

[woodyng]

The old style Labella black tapewounds are great if you want to go for an approximation of the sound of a URB. I went from a set of those on my Carvin fretless to the Labella white tapes,which have a more metallic zing to them. I am going to switch back to the originals,just because i really Like the URB sound when i do play fretless.

[manta]

Sorry, rather busy weekend. OK, as promised, here's some shots.

I know the PUPs are not original. The tuners and bridge appear to be.

How one goes about replacing a numbered jack plate I don't know. The regular channel oddly enough plays just fine but the RIC-O-SOUND channel is toast.

I'll try some Xymol to see if anything buffs up. Looks like I need to find some shiny screws too.

On the action, do you adjust the truss rods on a RIC bass same as a RIC guitar. I usually keep the tension as normal as can be (I don't loosen the strings unless I can't get to the truss rods). Will that apply here as well?

Thanks for all the input so far. It has been tremendously helpful.

Manta

[manta]

A few more:

[edski]

A new output harness is $25 US. It's a simple drop in, and you can just clean up the plate with the serial number.

Had to replace it on my 75 4001 about a year ago.

[manta]

Thanks Ed!!

[RickyBubba]

You have done very well for the investment! I'll be glad to double your money….LoL.

You might want to open it up and see what the pots look like. If they are as corroded from the salt air, you might want to replace them as well.

[Gilmourisgod]

Wow that binding has yellowed something fierce. Is it the binding itself, or the clearcoat over it?

[bassduke49]

That will be the clear coat yellowing. You'll probably see a slight greenish tinge to the Jetglo because of the yellowing clear coat.

[iiipopes]

Regarding the jackplate and jacks - Don't replace the jackplate with the serial number. Take it off and clean it so it makes good contact with the jack sleeves, washers and nuts. Regarding the the mono jack, there is an engaging finger on the side of the jack that can become corroded. Its purpose, as opposed to a simple tip and sleeve jack, is to sum the outputs of the two pickups laterally off the Ric-O-Sound tip and ring terminals. Gently clean the mono jack (Mr. JH recommends pencil eraser) and take needle nosed pliers to adjust the tip of the summing finger, if necessary, to make a clean contact. We have all had to do this at one time or another. I don't think you will need to replace anything. If the pots are scratchy, the slightest shot of contact cleaner will fix them.

[Ontario_RIC_fan]

The SN looks like TB to me - Feb 1980.

The number range for TB is roughly 350 to 800.

You should do a rubbing of the plate with some charcoal and see if you can glean the three numbers.

Still looks like a nice score! Congrats on the new to you bass.

[ram]

I have had good luck with cleaning rust with a tooth brush and baking soda or real tooth PASTE under running water. Very gently with the tooth brush caked with baking soda under gently running water to get the big loose stuff. Careful it can scratch. then water and aluminum foil. again gently as to not scratch... then coke and aluminum foil. dry with a nice clean cloth and see if it looks any better. You might try it on the back of the plate first and then on the part away from the numbers. good luck with it.

[iiipopes]

I have had good luck with cleaning rust with a tooth brush and baking soda or real tooth PASTE under running water. Very gently with the tooth brush caked with baking soda under gently running water to get the big loose stuff. Careful it can scratch. then water and aluminum foil. again gently as to not scratch... then coke and aluminum foil. dry with a nice clean cloth and see if it looks any better. You might try it on the back of the plate first and then on the part away from the numbers. good luck with it.

Yes, canned or bottled Coca-Cola. The carbonation reacts with the syrup in the can or bottle to make a mild solution of carbonic acid in addition to the phosphoric acid that is added as an ingredient to give the soda pop its "bite."