Looking for my first Ric

[Ric O'Sound]

Don't loosen the strings when you adjust the neck? I've always done that. I was always told to loosen the strings so that the neck didn't have to work so hard to straighten out.

Nearly every experienced guitar tech I've talked to confirms what Joshua said. Adjust the truss rod under normal string tension. You're not going to see the results immediately...the neck can take up to 48 hours to settle in to its final position. Then you can decide if further adjustment is needed. Sometimes a truss rod adjustment can take up to several days to complete, depending on how much tweaking is necessary.

So how would you know if you had to adjust one of the truss rods and not the other?

As a general rule, you'll want to adjust both rods equally...i.e. up to a quarter turn at a time (max) on both rods. Wait at least a day and then repeat the process if needed. The only time you'll want to adjust "asymmetrically" is if the neck exhibits any twisting. Sight down the fingerboard and if you notice the line of frets starts veering off to one side or the other, you've got a twist. You can remedy this by tightening or loosening on one side or the other. That's the beauty of the dual rod system. With a single truss rod, a neck twist usually means a trip to the local luthier.

[EagleMoon]

thanks for all the info! I really appreciate it.

I have noticed a difference in the neck from that one adjustment. However I also noticed that it seemed that the D and G strings sounded a little duller when fretted in the middle of the neck than the E and A strings after the adjustment. What would that mean? Could the truss rods be too tight on that side?

Sorry for all the question s.

[Starscream]

This is all some really interesting stuff Im reading here. Man Im going to need so much help when I get my first Ric. The poor thing....

[johnallg]

thanks for all the info! I really appreciate it.

I have noticed a difference in the neck from that one adjustment. However I also noticed that it seemed that the D and G strings sounded a little duller when fretted in the middle of the neck than the E and A strings after the adjustment. What would that mean? Could the truss rods be too tight on that side?

Sorry for all the question s.

Pat, fret the E and G strings at the 1st and last frets and look if there is any gap along the string to the frets. For a flat neck, the string should just "kiss" the frets when holding the 1st down and slowly bringing the string down to the last fret. That way you know there is no backbow. You might have the G side rod too tight, but you would get a lot of fret noise when playing it, not reduced output. Try backing the truss nut on that side off just enough to know you moved it. Could be a resonance problem. Also, but this would have been so before you moved the rods, if a string is put on with a twist along its length, it will not vibrate freely and have reduced output. Easy way to remedy if you suspect that is to back off the tension on that string, grab it at the tailpiece and push back towards the end and also twist (or actually look to untwist) the string by letting the ball end rotate.

I bought a (very) straight edge that is 24" long and use that to see if the neck is bowed or straight. Always check for straight or bow when you are wearing the bass in playing position, as having the bass lay on a bench or even across your legs will, just from the weight of the instrument, bow the neck. True for any bass.

[EagleMoon]

Pat, fret the E and G strings at the 1st and last frets and look if there is any gap along the string to the frets. For a flat neck, the string should just "kiss" the frets when holding the 1st down and slowly bringing the string down to the last fret. That way you know there is no backbow. You might have the G side rod too tight, but you would get a lot of fret noise when playing it, not reduced output. Try backing the truss nut on that side off just enough to know you moved it. Could be a resonance problem. Also, but this would have been so before you moved the rods, if a string is put on with a twist along its length, it will not vibrate freely and have reduced output. Easy way to remedy if you suspect that is to back off the tension on that string, grab it at the tailpiece and push back towards the end and also twist (or actually look to untwist) the string by letting the ball end rotate.

I bought a (very) straight edge that is 24" long and use that to see if the neck is bowed or straight. Always check for straight or bow when you are wearing the bass in playing position, as having the bass lay on a bench or even across your legs will, just from the weight of the instrument, bow the neck. True for any bass.

So I need to make sure that there is the same amount of gap between the G string and the 8th fret (or wherever) and the E string and the same fret? Just want to make sure I'm reading this right. I thought about the twisted string, but I'm usually pretty careful not to do that. But I'll double check to make sure. It seemed to be kind of dull sounding, almost like a dead spot in the middle of the neck on both the D and the G strings. It didn't sound that way when fretting at the nut end or the body end of the neck.

[cassius987]

Pat, fret the E and G strings at the 1st and last frets and look if there is any gap along the string to the frets. For a flat neck, the string should just "kiss" the frets when holding the 1st down and slowly bringing the string down to the last fret. That way you know there is no backbow. You might have the G side rod too tight, but you would get a lot of fret noise when playing it, not reduced output. Try backing the truss nut on that side off just enough to know you moved it. Could be a resonance problem. Also, but this would have been so before you moved the rods, if a string is put on with a twist along its length, it will not vibrate freely and have reduced output. Easy way to remedy if you suspect that is to back off the tension on that string, grab it at the tailpiece and push back towards the end and also twist (or actually look to untwist) the string by letting the ball end rotate.

I bought a (very) straight edge that is 24" long and use that to see if the neck is bowed or straight. Always check for straight or bow when you are wearing the bass in playing position, as having the bass lay on a bench or even across your legs will, just from the weight of the instrument, bow the neck. True for any bass.

So I need to make sure that there is the same amount of gap between the G string and the 8th fret (or wherever) and the E string and the same fret? Just want to make sure I'm reading this right. I thought about the twisted string, but I'm usually pretty careful not to do that. But I'll double check to make sure. It seemed to be kind of dull sounding, almost like a dead spot in the middle of the neck on both the D and the G strings. It didn't sound that way when fretting at the nut end or the body end of the neck.

I wish I could help you but I've never experienced this. John's advice sounds good to me though.

[johnallg]

Pat, as for the amount of relief you want on the E and the G sides, that is personal. RIC recommends a totally flat neck, but it is a personal decision. Depends also on how much fret buzz you want. Remember the E string has more vibrational excursion when plucked than the G string. So dependent on the fret buzz amount, you may want a bit of relief on the E side and not on the G. Set it up for what best works for you and your style.

[EagleMoon]

Pat, as for the amount of relief you want on the E and the G sides, that is personal. RIC recommends a totally flat neck, but it is a personal decision. Depends also on how much fret buzz you want. Remember the E string has more vibrational excursion when plucked than the G string. So dependent on the fret buzz amount, you may want a bit of relief on the E side and not on the G. Set it up for what best works for you and your style.

Thanks, I just wanted to make sure. It's going to take some getting used to.