Let's Talk Pyramid Strings
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
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4003Seagreen
Peter, I currently have the stock Rickenbacker roundwounds. I'm curious, did you have to relieve the tension or tighten the rods? I've never adjusted RIC truss rods before, but according to the manual it looks fairly simple (and non-destructive if I follow directions).
I'm not after the Yes sound, I do like the growl and twang of the rounds, but I've never tried flats, it seems a lot of RIC bass players love them, so I want to give them a shot (I've got a feeling I'll like what I hear).
I'm not after the Yes sound, I do like the growl and twang of the rounds, but I've never tried flats, it seems a lot of RIC bass players love them, so I want to give them a shot (I've got a feeling I'll like what I hear).
4003Seagreen: I had to tighten the truss rods slightly on my 4003 when I put the Pyramid Flats on it. Yes it is a simple task as long as you take your time.
Life, as with music, often requires one to let go of the melody and listen to the rhythm
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GT
I've finally broke down and purchased a set of Pyramid flats for my '76 4001. The "E" is dead sounding. Also, their is no information on the packaging as to gauge or string tension. Does anyone have this info? Whats up with the E string? It sounded puny with roundwounds and now it's just a "thunk". (not the JA song.) Every other string gives a wonderful heavy/clear thump sound. For $50+ for the set, the E string is a dissapointment. Any remedies?
GT: Mark may have some suggestions for you but the E is a 105 and I also find on my 4003 that it is in the thud category. Perhaps a Pyramid string expert will respond to both of us.
Life, as with music, often requires one to let go of the melody and listen to the rhythm
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4003Seagreen
GT and Peter-
I had the same problem as you two. In addition, I had some fraying with the E String above the nut. I contacted Paul at Pyramid Strings:
[email protected]
He was extremely helpful, he offered to send me a new string (along with other goodies) and that string worked great. No thud, with a clear tone like the other strings. They have great customer service, give it a try.
I had the same problem as you two. In addition, I had some fraying with the E String above the nut. I contacted Paul at Pyramid Strings:
[email protected]
He was extremely helpful, he offered to send me a new string (along with other goodies) and that string worked great. No thud, with a clear tone like the other strings. They have great customer service, give it a try.
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GT
Maybe I've gotten use to the sound or maybe, like double bass strings, Pyramids need a break in period. The E string sounds better. Still not what I think it should be but not the totally dead sound I remember when I first installed them. Am I imagining things or is it possible that they really do need a break in period?
Pyramids do need a "break in" period, however, I do notice that the E Pyramid string, much like the E on a double bass, does not have the sustain of the other strings.
Life, as with music, often requires one to let go of the melody and listen to the rhythm
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4003SeaGreen
The E String on my Rick sustains fine. Like I wrote before, I had to exchange it, but the replacement string's attributes are similar to the other 3 strings: clear, bright tones with great sustain. I really recommend contacting Paul at Pyramid Strings, he'll send you a new string provided you send back the old one.
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GT
4003SeaGreen - took your advice and contacted Pyramid. Very helpfull. They made the same type of offer although they did say that their strings do require a break in period. After reading several posts under Ric basses, it seems that possibly replacing the string saddle may affect my issue also. In fact, Mark Arnquist suggested this when he set up my bass. So.. I've contacted Rickenbacker and have a new saddle coming. I'll let you know if it provides an improvement. Mark, if you read these posts, I'll be getting in touch with you once the saddle gets here.
GT et al: I too have found Pyramid strings to be very helpful. They are certainly prepared to stand behind their product. The breaking in period is over in my case so I have to suspect either the string or the saddle. I'll let you know happens after I assess the matter further.
Life, as with music, often requires one to let go of the melody and listen to the rhythm
Please join the Official RickResource Forum Facebook Page https://www.facebook.com/groups/379271585440277
Please join the Official RickResource Forum Facebook Page https://www.facebook.com/groups/379271585440277
When I replace the saddles on a Rick bass,I use a set of files that are round /parallel files.I use a file that is sold to the chain saw industry for the "E" saddle.This gives excellent contact with the saddle and the whole string sits in the bottom of the 'notch'.
The other thing that I do for the "E" saddle is ,I mill/file away half of the part that the screw goes into so that I get MAXIMUM travel in the bridge chassis.
To also get better sustain quality I sometimes also step up in size to a larger allen/hex screw size as far as the height screw is concerned.
As to the thud tone of a Pyramid string ...talk to Paul.
The other thing that I do for the "E" saddle is ,I mill/file away half of the part that the screw goes into so that I get MAXIMUM travel in the bridge chassis.
To also get better sustain quality I sometimes also step up in size to a larger allen/hex screw size as far as the height screw is concerned.
As to the thud tone of a Pyramid string ...talk to Paul.
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
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anonymous
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anonymous
About three days after my last post, my E-string came alive. Sustain and tone that are just what I had hoped for. I don't know why it took nearly 3 weeks for the break-in period (maybe I just don't play it enough) but what a difference a bit of time makes with the pyramids. (p.s. I'm still getting the new saddle installed and should have a better playing bass for doing so.)
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anonymous
