Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2005 5:28 pm
I know, not Roanoke Island. There is certainly no "scene" there 'ceptin' crabs and ducks. Roanoke as in the city, yes? No?
If you want a glossy factory piano-type finish on wood, you need to spray the finish with a spray gun.
Sprayed air-dry polyurethane (like Flecto Varathane, for instance) should be thinned with naphtha. Several coats are then applied, rubbed down between with pumice and oil, and finally buffed. It's a bear and a lot of work to boot.
Or, you could French Polish it with shellac and cheesecloth. This is an art that takes a few tries before you master the feel of it. There are whole books written on these topics.
Brushing poly will never yield a glass-smooth finish, although the manufacturers would like you to think so--it helps them to sell lots of it.
The poly which I use to finish guitars is not a furniture-type polyurethane, which is usually air-dry. It is a catalyzing-type finish, like the conversion varnish used by Rickenbacker. It must be sprayed and left to cure in a dust-free area overnight. (Rickenbacker takes at least three days before they buff out their varnish, just to be on the safe side).
It is then wet-sanded and buffed out by hand and using a power stationary buffer. I do not use a handheld car buffer, as these rotate too fast and burn through the clearcoat.
No simple answer, just proper methods, equipment, experience, and hard work. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
If you want a glossy factory piano-type finish on wood, you need to spray the finish with a spray gun.
Sprayed air-dry polyurethane (like Flecto Varathane, for instance) should be thinned with naphtha. Several coats are then applied, rubbed down between with pumice and oil, and finally buffed. It's a bear and a lot of work to boot.
Or, you could French Polish it with shellac and cheesecloth. This is an art that takes a few tries before you master the feel of it. There are whole books written on these topics.
Brushing poly will never yield a glass-smooth finish, although the manufacturers would like you to think so--it helps them to sell lots of it.
The poly which I use to finish guitars is not a furniture-type polyurethane, which is usually air-dry. It is a catalyzing-type finish, like the conversion varnish used by Rickenbacker. It must be sprayed and left to cure in a dust-free area overnight. (Rickenbacker takes at least three days before they buff out their varnish, just to be on the safe side).
It is then wet-sanded and buffed out by hand and using a power stationary buffer. I do not use a handheld car buffer, as these rotate too fast and burn through the clearcoat.
No simple answer, just proper methods, equipment, experience, and hard work. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.