Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 8:01 am
love that
!!!
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The Project
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Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 8:07 am
When you start replacing that much of an instrument I feel that it loses a lot of it's "Rickyness"....especially since the main issue is the extra holes by the bridge. Just fill them in and do it in a solid color. A 4001s in Squire-Glo would be cool.
Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 8:18 am
I could actually live with the holes by the bridge. It's the 4 holes above the pickguard that are way too visible
Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 9:51 am
Charly, you can always do what Chris Squire did and wall paper it. 
I think topping it with some quilted maple is a cool idea. It would hide the holes, the challenge would be what to do with the rounded off area.
I think topping it with some quilted maple is a cool idea. It would hide the holes, the challenge would be what to do with the rounded off area.
Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 5:32 pm
quilted-yesh!
Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 5:39 pm
The problem is how do you sink the sheet of maple to meet the binding flush?
Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 6:36 pm
The binding is gone now. He sanded the corner round and so I took the rest off. We would shave it down the width of the binding. There would still be an issue at the corner. That's why I am considering changing the body wings completely.
Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 4:35 am
"The problem is how do you sink the sheet of maple to meet the binding flush?"
You would have to remove the binding (if it were still there) and then put the maple top on first, then rout that flush with the binding channel using a router with a guide, or a bit with a bearing. Then you would glue on new binding that is slightly higher than the top, and when it's dry, use a scraper to make the binding flush with the top. That's not a paint scraper, but a wood scraper... they look like flat pieces of steel.
You would have to remove the binding (if it were still there) and then put the maple top on first, then rout that flush with the binding channel using a router with a guide, or a bit with a bearing. Then you would glue on new binding that is slightly higher than the top, and when it's dry, use a scraper to make the binding flush with the top. That's not a paint scraper, but a wood scraper... they look like flat pieces of steel.
Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 5:20 am
I say round the edges and refinish it ...
Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 5:34 am
JEff - then we are back to those 4 screw holes!
Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 5:55 am
Yuck... I hate the 4001C64 basses with no binding and dot inlays. Looks cheap. Just MHO.
Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 6:01 am
Well, mine would be white pickguard and chrome parts. I'm still leaning toward changing the whole wing(s)
Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 6:05 am
Okay, here's a step by step:
1.Remove body wings
2.Plane off approximately 1/4"(the thickness of the binding) off the top of each body wing.
3.Glue maple top on each wing.
4.Glue wings back onto neck.
5.Blend top laminates into body shape,countour edges and re-route for bridge and pickups(this will also serve the dual purpose of hiding the extra routing for the bridge pickup).Also re-drill pickguard holes.
6.Replace headstock wings with matching maple.
1.Remove body wings
2.Plane off approximately 1/4"(the thickness of the binding) off the top of each body wing.
3.Glue maple top on each wing.
4.Glue wings back onto neck.
5.Blend top laminates into body shape,countour edges and re-route for bridge and pickups(this will also serve the dual purpose of hiding the extra routing for the bridge pickup).Also re-drill pickguard holes.
6.Replace headstock wings with matching maple.
Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 6:12 am
Somebody told me to search for Ted's articles on removing wings. I searched his name and got 665 articles. Anyone know how to limit the search to find the article?
Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 3:01 pm
No. You must read them all! 