Serial Number

Vintage, Modern, V & C series, Fretless, Signature & Special Editions

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dave4004
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Post by dave4004 »

Pascal, you love the bass and the sound, and that's definitely the most important thing. If you bought this from a dealer, you probably overpaid by $250-$300. And if you wanted to pursue a claim against a seller, you have the serial number and the pot dates as proof it's an '87. But if I were in your shoes, I would definitely keep the bass.
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doctorwho
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Post by doctorwho »

Pascal,
As it is with people in general, there are many dealers afraid to say those three magic words, "I don't know". Case in point: recently at an Orange County (CA) guitar show, there was a guitar on display that was labelled as a 1967 Gibson ES-335. However, it had (1) reissue tuners, not original Klusons; (2) non-original bridge with metal saddles, instead of the OEM plastic saddles, and (3) it had a not-same-era Bigsby (two screws, end and top of the body, instead of just the end). Although I didn't get a chance to talk to the dealer, the price on the tag made it seem that the guitar was being sold as if it were all original. My guess is that the dealer simply didn't know better. The reason that I do? I bought my 1967 ES-335TDC (on layaway, with paper route money!) in 1969, and it's all original except for a replaced set of plastic saddles (but the originals are in the case).

And sometimes what dealers don't know works in one's favor. A few months ago I snagged a 4003 Redneck from a dealer on eBay who didn't know what he had. I didn't volunteer the information because when I called and asked about the serial number on the jackplate (yes, I told them where it was!) I was told there wasn't one (I just wanted to confirm a 1987 year of manufacture). Even though it's been played and needs a set of knobs (and the always-missing bridge pickup cover), I got a very rare bass for a lot less than what it should have sold for.

Perhaps the most important point is that you are happy with how the bass plays and sounds - it'd be worse to pay a lot for one that didn't meet your expectations (as I did recently with a Hofner 500/1 that has the highest action and worst intonation I have seen).
It is better, of course, to know useless things than to know nothing. - Seneca
daveman
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Post by daveman »

"he still is adament about it being a '68 disputing the serial numbering system." WOW - even if you forget about the serial numbers, which you can't, one look at this bass tells you it can't be a 68, or even close. everything is wrong - pickups, pickup location, finish, binding, fret markers, and probly the nut & tuners as well. There are lots of pics on this site of older ricks - just show him a few. I'd say he owes you $300... OR, if he is "convinced" it is a 68, then show him the kinds of prices a clean 68 will get on eBay and say that if he's so sure, he should be happy to take it back for a full refund so he can really get full value for it!!
rascal

Post by rascal »

Thanks for all your information and advice. To answer your questions, Sergio: I have 3 Ricks, pre-EB Musicman Stingray(s), Jazz, P-Bass, Ibanez, Specter, Schecter, Cort, Les Paul..to name a few, plus 1 standup. In total I think I have 28.

As for my Ricks, 2 of them were from the same person and my '87 is not an isolated case because another one was sold to me as a 69 which turns out to be a '79!! I paid $895 and returning that one for a refund. For the principle I would like to return the '87 but I LOVE that bass, and unless I can find the same sound on another one, I simply can't/won't part with it. I have tried dozens before and none compares. My '87 sounds like Chris Squire, my '79 sounds like Getty Lee and my '73 sounds completely different. I want to buy another Rick anyway, to replace the 79 I am returning, any suggestions? Is there anyway to make my '74 sound like '87? What was it about the 4003 model that sounds so different than every other Rick that I have tried?
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walrus
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Post by walrus »

Pascal,
Your dealer might have made an innocent mistake. You should be able to re-negotiate for a price that is within the book value range. It appears that you are a frequent buyer and any good businessman would want to keep you satisfied and coming back for more.
For future reference, up through 1972 (and some 1973s) the following features should exist on a 4001.
Toaster neck pickup about 1/2 inch from fretboard, checkerboard binding, and sparkly triangle inlays that go out to the binding. A shot of my newly acquired 1971 4001, highlighting these features, is included as an example.
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rickcrazy
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Post by rickcrazy »

Pascal, that is a mighty fine bass guitar collection. As we say in Portugal, 'Your collection commands respect'.
To answer your question about your 4003, the number of factors affecting the way a bass guitar sounds is enormous. I can not be more specific, all I can say is 'Don't ever get rid of that 4003'. As to making your '74 (or '73) sound like your '87, well, 'juggling' with the pickups might get you there, but what's the point? One of my five Rickenbacker basses is a June 1974 Jetglo 4001, and it sounds terrific. In fact, I find that each one of them sounds slightly different from the others, and I certainly will not want to change that.
A Rickenbacker bass is much like the Jaguar E car - perennially ultra-fashionable.
rickcrazy
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Post by rickcrazy »

Pascal, that is a mighty fine bass guitar collection. As we say in Portugal, 'Your collection commands respect'.
To answer your question about your 4003, the number of factors affecting the way a bass guitar sounds is enormous. I can not be more specific, all I can say is 'Don't ever get rid of that 4003'. As to making your '74 (or '73) sound like your '87, well, 'juggling' with the pickups might get you there, but what's the point? One of my five Rickenbacker basses is a June 1974 Jetglo 4001, and it sounds terrific. In fact, I find that each one of them sounds slightly different from the others, and I certainly will not want to change that.
A Rickenbacker bass is much like the Jaguar E car - perennially ultra-fashionable.
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