Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

I hope to get over there for at least a day trip. That's my busy season, work-wise (I actually strive hard never to be busy, but it can get kind of crazy around here at the beginning of boating season). I'd probably try to bring at least the bass and my 250, which is really fun to play.

The mandolin polished out pretty well. If you look carefully for it, you can still see the little irregularities in the varnish clarity, but they're nowhere near as easy to see when you have wood grain to distract your eye. I still need to go find something locally that will work for nut files and work on the bridge saddles and nut, but it looks pretty cool. Not bad for a $130 kit. I guess I'll build a case as I have a real aversion to "gig bags" (Dude, the neck broke off my guitar... wonder why?). Something tweedy would be pretty neat.

http://webpages.charter.net/tbradshaw/mand%200x3%20copy.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/tbradshaw/mand%200x4%20copy.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/tbradshaw/mand%200x5%20copy.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/tbradshaw/mand%200x7%20copy.jpg

I have a lovely hunk of super-curly maple that I bought off of E-bay and the next project will be an 8-string (probably with a Warmoth neck, Schaller 8 bridge, and JJ pickups). I haven't played an eight since June of 1972 and kind of miss it (hell, I'm lucky I can still remember it) but I think it's time to look for a better varnish and good respirator.

Great bass Todd. Well done.

Todd - I'd recommend that you try Target Coatings' Ultima Spray Lacquer for your future work. I've used the KTM, and a lot of other waterborne finishes, and have found that the USL is the best. It hardens well, burns in with no witness lines, if you limit the number of coats in a given day to about three, and let it hang for at least two weeks after shooting the last coat. It will take about 12 coats, sanded in between, to get a good level finish, but in the end it works out well. For buffing, check out StewMac's foam buffing pads. You can chuck them into a drill, and using their medium and fine compounds you can get a very glossy finish, particularly since you're already using MicroMesh. Don't bother using the Swirl Remover, I've not found it to be worth it.

Are you interested in selling bodies in that general shape? Perhaps something I could attach a 3rd party 5 string neck and pickup set on. Hmmm.

I think JH might have something to say about doing that, and even if he didn't, it just wouldn't be particularly kosher in my view. The "prime directive" when I started the project was to make any and all mods fully reversible. In about 30 minutes, I could reinstall the original body and once again, it would be a stock, 100% original 2030, which is what will happen of I ever sell the bass (don't hold your breath, 'cause I REALLY like it). The extra bodies would end-up in the dumpster. It may seem like a shame, but it's the right thing to do.

As far as building bodies of any kind to sell, even if there were no trademark problems, I'm not well enough equipped with woodworking tools, climate controlled work space or quite frankly, luthier's skills to even think seriously about it. I currently can afford to screw one up, work inefficiently, do things over until they're right, etc. Doing it for hire would be a very different story.

Ok yea, I understand, I guess I should have said body. I would love that body shape on an Ibanez 5er neck. Oh well, It is a stunning creation. Good Job.

That's beautiful, congrats!

Ok what about this. take that body design, cut it out, then route it out to about 3/8 thickness, except for where the neck and bridge are, then put a nice peice of say 3/16" maple on top, semi hollow body at about 1.5 inches total thickness? Add checkerd binding. hmm?? Would that be bitchin or what?

Since, unlike many basses, this one doesn't have an exaggerated, elongated body shape, I think it might neck-dive on you with a hollow body. As is, it balances pretty nicely, but it's not particularly body-heavy. I also get the feeling that some of the sound quality that 2030's have may be due to having a big, resonant hunk of solid maple for a body and it would be a shame to lose that. I had an extra plan drawn up for routing out big cavities in the body and adding a slash hole, which certainly would have looked great, but I wasn't so sure it would make it a better instrument.

Paint a fake slash-hole... My Gretsch 6070 has painted f-holes, mid-60's hollowbody Gretsches have them (less susceptible to feedback), no-one notices they're not real unless I tell them. It's reversible - you can always refin the top if you don't like it. I can take a closeup pic of the fake f-hole if you want me to.

A very well thought out project. Excellent job.

A neck heavy bass is tiring to play all night, even when you're used to it. In really fast passages your left hand gets tired & slows down a lot quicker.