Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 6:10 pm
Wow. Things move slowly downunda.
Buying another Rick? Now that's a different story!!
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Climate control issue with RICs
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Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 6:23 pm
I tread very carefully in that regard these days, Paul. Too many times bitten - a veritable minefield.
Buying another Rick? Now that's a different story!!
Buying another Rick? Now that's a different story!!
Posted: Sun Jul 02, 2006 8:40 am
Back to the topic, I believe that temperature change/humidity DO make a difference with Rick Guitars. I've noticed a few 660/12s where the binding was cracked by protruding frets. I believe that the neck wood can shrink the slightest bit causing this problem. It might be from the frets not being filed back enough before the binding is applied. I have a Fender Custom Shop Relic P Bass with some finish "worn" from the sides of the neck. Lack of humidity caused the frets to hang over the edge and the neck to flatten out a bit. I set the Bass in the shower room for a couple of days and everything was fine. The problem with the humidity theory for a Rick is that the wood is so sealed up with lacquer. It could be a temperature thing or just the wood drying out. I've kept my 660/12 in the case for 99% of it's life so far and the binding is still good.
Posted: Sun Jul 02, 2006 10:56 am
The fret protrusion is, of course, caused by dryness in the environment, leading to dryness in the wood and shrinkage. This is an issue with individual instruments, or YMMV as we say.
Not filing the frets back far enough on bound-neck instruments? I don't think so--frets are filed flush with the edge of the rabbet for the binding. There's no way that the binding would glue, and the guitar pass QC, with frets that already protruded due to worker neglect.
The wood is sealed up on most guitars made these days. In Rick's case, it's not lacquer, it's a very durable polyurethane varnish. Nitro, if applied thinly, does "breathe" somewhat, but type of finish is a moot point, as the inside of a hollowbody guitar remains unfinished. Rick necks breathe via the truss rod slots, which are open on both ends to the atmosphere.
It's humidity rather than temperature that's the culprit here. I personally would avoid the shock treatment you employ, especially repeatedly. It will have adverse effects. Instead, use a room humidifier in the guitar room. An R.H. of 30-50% is ideal.
Not filing the frets back far enough on bound-neck instruments? I don't think so--frets are filed flush with the edge of the rabbet for the binding. There's no way that the binding would glue, and the guitar pass QC, with frets that already protruded due to worker neglect.
The wood is sealed up on most guitars made these days. In Rick's case, it's not lacquer, it's a very durable polyurethane varnish. Nitro, if applied thinly, does "breathe" somewhat, but type of finish is a moot point, as the inside of a hollowbody guitar remains unfinished. Rick necks breathe via the truss rod slots, which are open on both ends to the atmosphere.
It's humidity rather than temperature that's the culprit here. I personally would avoid the shock treatment you employ, especially repeatedly. It will have adverse effects. Instead, use a room humidifier in the guitar room. An R.H. of 30-50% is ideal.