Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

grayk wrote:I took the 2 small height adjustment screws out of the bridge and installed 2 x 5p coins either side of the base of the bridge. They can't be seen and it makes for a solid interface between the bridge and the tailpiece. This makes for a better transfer of the string vibration. These small mods have transformed my 4003.

Do you have a photograph of this?

Having removed the button head "nail" pole pieces (ONLY from the later modern plastic bobbin high gains!!) I can say you would need to protect the head of the pole nail as the teeth of the tool will mar them. Also, they twist out to the left and up when raising, to the right and down when lowering.

grayk wrote:Jeff - When you physically twist the polepieces with vice grips (I am assuming this is what we call Mole grips in the UK) do the teeth of the grips chew up and mark the pole pieces? If not how do you achieve this ? Are they easy to shift? and do they stay quite tight after they have been moved, Sounds like pulling a tooth !

Yes of course the soft metal will be plastically deformed slightly from the pressure of the vice grips ... Also you can shear off the mushroom shaped head as well ... it is not for those who are faint of heart ...

on my 4003s5 the pole piece would move so I ground it down slightly ...

Timothy - I am sorry I am just on my way out of the door on holiday for a week in Wales so wont be able to oblige for a week... apologies.

John - Thankyou for your valuable input there.

Jeff - excellent, thanks for your input and great photos. I think you are right, I will leave that sort of stufff to the guys that know how to do it properly. I'm sure a lot of people will benefit from knowing this though stuff though.

fireglo wrote:

grayk wrote:I took the 2 small height adjustment screws out of the bridge and installed 2 x 5p coins either side of the base of the bridge. They can't be seen and it makes for a solid interface between the bridge and the tailpiece. This makes for a better transfer of the string vibration. These small mods have transformed my 4003.

Do you have a photograph of this?

What Keith does is pulls the strings, lifts the bridge out of the tailpiece, removes the allen-type height adjustment screws, gets four 5 pence coins, stacks two coins at both ends of the tailpiece's bridge recess cavity (where the height adjustment screws used to hit the tailpiece), and then lays the bridge back in. This sets the height at a pre-determined height but also on a stable, flat platform that keeps the bridge from rocking like it did on the adjustment screws. If you need more height, use another coin or find something of appropriate diameter and height. Hope this is clearer.

Removing the poles can be a bit risky (espcially the end ones) as they are only covered with a thin layer of electrical tape under the windings. The sharp splines on the poles (type U drive screws) could damage the coil as they move in and out. Jeff has had good luck with this obviously but you could make it necessary to rewind your coil by doing that.

Ted, that is exactly why Jeff and I only do it to the newer high gains that are wound on the plastic coil forms. The pole holes are in the coil form center and the winding is wound on the outside plastic of the form. There is no chance of inner winding breakage on the newer high gains because of the form. If you look at Jeff's picture, you see the 2 ridges of extra plastic on the top of the form that the nails are between. That says plastic form. The earlier high gains had flat tops. They were just two flat pieces with the poles in the middle with the plastic tape and copper windings over them.

John - Thanks for explaining what the procedure is regarding the bridge shims (coins or washers etc) in my absence.

Timothy - I think John got it across perfectly without the need for a photo. However if you would like me to add a pic I am quite happy to do so. I think when you look at the bridge on your bass it will be obvious what to do.

Yeah, I see what you're saying now!

Is there an American analog of the 5p coin? How thick is it?

Charles, I really wouldnt know what the equivalent coin would be for you. You maybe have more options as with our money there was only the 5p coin that would fit in as the diameter was near enough perfect. I think it is a case of slacken the strings, lift the bridge and start trying different coins or washers. I havent a means of measuring the 5p coin for you, apologies. I cant even put my hand on my 6" ruler at the moment. Maybe someone else will oblige.

A 5p coin is roughly the size of an American dime....705" diameter and .065 thick, as opposed to the dime's .700" diameter and .050" thick.

Thankyou Paul.